[Z06] My Head/Cam Build
08-09-2015, 11:06 AM
#1
My Head/Cam Build
Haven't had the chance to really contribute on this forum, but I wanted to post my build and get some feedback from you guys. The car feels great, drives great, and the power is definitely there. I am however wondering if we left a bit of power on the table.
Tell me what you think.
06 Z06 with 5200 miles on it. The only mod I had on the car going into the build was a KNN Intake. All mods where done at the same shop, using a Mustang Dyno to tune. Stock numbers with the Intake were 449hp and 419tq. I added 2" Headers, X-Pipe, and a Fast Intake a couple months back and put it back on the Dyno, it made 476hp and 452tq. I was going to wait until next year for the Heads/Cam package but I decided I might as well just knock it out. I picked the car up a couple days ago after the build and it is now making 522hp and 501tq on the Mustang Dyno. Some say the Mustang Dyno reads roughly 10%-12% lower than others, but what do I know.
Full Mods:
Ported Fast Intake
KNN Intake
CNC Ported Heads
Custom Comp Cam
C5R Timing Chain
Comp Lifters
High Strength Pushrods
Rocker Trunion Kit
Pace Racing Springs with Titanium Locks/Retainers
Bronze Intake/Exhaust Valve Guides
Stock NPP Exhaust
2" Headers with X-Pipe
Cam Specs:
Valve Lift: .610/.617
Tappet Lift: 273/281
Duration @ 223/231
Lobe Lift @.3590/.3630
Lobe Separation @116.0
Installed 112.00 Intake Center Line
Can you guys tell me, am I leaving a lot on the table or do Mustang Dyno's just read quite a bit lower? Am I crazy or would you be thinking the same thing?
Tell me what you think.
06 Z06 with 5200 miles on it. The only mod I had on the car going into the build was a KNN Intake. All mods where done at the same shop, using a Mustang Dyno to tune. Stock numbers with the Intake were 449hp and 419tq. I added 2" Headers, X-Pipe, and a Fast Intake a couple months back and put it back on the Dyno, it made 476hp and 452tq. I was going to wait until next year for the Heads/Cam package but I decided I might as well just knock it out. I picked the car up a couple days ago after the build and it is now making 522hp and 501tq on the Mustang Dyno. Some say the Mustang Dyno reads roughly 10%-12% lower than others, but what do I know.
Full Mods:
Ported Fast Intake
KNN Intake
CNC Ported Heads
Custom Comp Cam
C5R Timing Chain
Comp Lifters
High Strength Pushrods
Rocker Trunion Kit
Pace Racing Springs with Titanium Locks/Retainers
Bronze Intake/Exhaust Valve Guides
Stock NPP Exhaust
2" Headers with X-Pipe
Cam Specs:
Valve Lift: .610/.617
Tappet Lift: 273/281
Duration @ 223/231
Lobe Lift @.3590/.3630
Lobe Separation @116.0
Installed 112.00 Intake Center Line
Can you guys tell me, am I leaving a lot on the table or do Mustang Dyno's just read quite a bit lower? Am I crazy or would you be thinking the same thing?
08-09-2015, 11:21 AM
#2
Instructor
I am no engine expert (but have built a few of them) but that cam sounds to small for a ported Fast intake, heads and 2" headers.
I had mine tuned and ran on a Mustang dyno, was not happy with the tune and had redone and ran on a Dyno Jet the difference was only 5 hp more on the Dyno Jet. 570 up to 575 but very happy with the new tune.
I had mine tuned and ran on a Mustang dyno, was not happy with the tune and had redone and ran on a Dyno Jet the difference was only 5 hp more on the Dyno Jet. 570 up to 575 but very happy with the new tune.
08-09-2015, 11:45 AM
#3
I am no engine expert (but have built a few of them) but that cam sounds to small for a ported Fast intake, heads and 2" headers.
I had mine tuned and ran on a Mustang dyno, was not happy with the tune and had redone and ran on a Dyno Jet the difference was only 5 hp more on the Dyno Jet. 570 up to 575 but very happy with the new tune.
I had mine tuned and ran on a Mustang dyno, was not happy with the tune and had redone and ran on a Dyno Jet the difference was only 5 hp more on the Dyno Jet. 570 up to 575 but very happy with the new tune.
08-09-2015, 12:52 PM
#4
Melting Slicks
My thoughts:
I'd stay with 1 7/8" primary American Racing or Kooks headers unless you're going forced induction.
I'd use one of the proven cam grinds that fits your needs. Unless you are prepared to try 5 or more grinds and dyno the results on an engine dyno, I think you are wasting time and money. Also, if you go with any cam other than stock, make sure you are prepared to give up drivability. Many times the car is for sale about 6 months after installing a large cam.
The FAST intake is great at adding torque from 2k-5k, but the new MSD intake adds more HP on top end. The FAST requires new fuel rails and the MSD does not. Both great options, just pick based upon your goals.
Watch out which trunion kit you go with. One of the manufacturers out their uses even less needle bearings than stock. CHE offers a precision bushing that works well and eliminates most of the side play.
I'd go with either American Heritage or WCCH for the head work. Both have great track records.
Be careful which springs you go with. Many are failing prematurely. I prefer the beehive style from PSI. They have performed well in Spintron testing and last well. PSI has a new LS1515ML valve spring that is designed for the taller LS7 install height. Almost all other springs and retainers are actually designed for the LS1 with a 1.850" install height. There are no LS7 titanium retainers in production today, only LS1.
Best of luck!
I'd stay with 1 7/8" primary American Racing or Kooks headers unless you're going forced induction.
I'd use one of the proven cam grinds that fits your needs. Unless you are prepared to try 5 or more grinds and dyno the results on an engine dyno, I think you are wasting time and money. Also, if you go with any cam other than stock, make sure you are prepared to give up drivability. Many times the car is for sale about 6 months after installing a large cam.
The FAST intake is great at adding torque from 2k-5k, but the new MSD intake adds more HP on top end. The FAST requires new fuel rails and the MSD does not. Both great options, just pick based upon your goals.
Watch out which trunion kit you go with. One of the manufacturers out their uses even less needle bearings than stock. CHE offers a precision bushing that works well and eliminates most of the side play.
I'd go with either American Heritage or WCCH for the head work. Both have great track records.
Be careful which springs you go with. Many are failing prematurely. I prefer the beehive style from PSI. They have performed well in Spintron testing and last well. PSI has a new LS1515ML valve spring that is designed for the taller LS7 install height. Almost all other springs and retainers are actually designed for the LS1 with a 1.850" install height. There are no LS7 titanium retainers in production today, only LS1.
Best of luck!
08-09-2015, 01:05 PM
#5
My thoughts:
I'd stay with 1 7/8" primary American Racing or Kooks headers unless you're going forced induction.
I'd use one of the proven cam grinds that fits your needs. Unless you are prepared to try 5 or more grinds and dyno the results on an engine dyno, I think you are wasting time and money. Also, if you go with any cam other than stock, make sure you are prepared to give up drivability. Many times the car is for sale about 6 months after installing a large cam.
The FAST intake is great at adding torque from 2k-5k, but the new MSD intake adds more HP on top end. The FAST requires new fuel rails and the MSD does not. Both great options, just pick based upon your goals.
Watch out which trunion kit you go with. One of the manufacturers out their uses even less needle bearings than stock. CHE offers a precision bushing that works well and eliminates most of the side play.
I'd go with either American Heritage or WCCH for the head work. Both have great track records.
Be careful which springs you go with. Many are failing prematurely. I prefer the beehive style from PSI. They have performed well in Spintron testing and last well. PSI has a new LS1515ML valve spring that is designed for the taller LS7 install height. Almost all other springs and retainers are actually designed for the LS1 with a 1.850" install height. There are no LS7 titanium retainers in production today, only LS1.
Best of luck!
I'd stay with 1 7/8" primary American Racing or Kooks headers unless you're going forced induction.
I'd use one of the proven cam grinds that fits your needs. Unless you are prepared to try 5 or more grinds and dyno the results on an engine dyno, I think you are wasting time and money. Also, if you go with any cam other than stock, make sure you are prepared to give up drivability. Many times the car is for sale about 6 months after installing a large cam.
The FAST intake is great at adding torque from 2k-5k, but the new MSD intake adds more HP on top end. The FAST requires new fuel rails and the MSD does not. Both great options, just pick based upon your goals.
Watch out which trunion kit you go with. One of the manufacturers out their uses even less needle bearings than stock. CHE offers a precision bushing that works well and eliminates most of the side play.
I'd go with either American Heritage or WCCH for the head work. Both have great track records.
Be careful which springs you go with. Many are failing prematurely. I prefer the beehive style from PSI. They have performed well in Spintron testing and last well. PSI has a new LS1515ML valve spring that is designed for the taller LS7 install height. Almost all other springs and retainers are actually designed for the LS1 with a 1.850" install height. There are no LS7 titanium retainers in production today, only LS1.
Best of luck!
08-09-2015, 01:24 PM
#6
Instructor
With the ported intake, heads and 2" headers you may need to go to a cam like a BTR stage lll or equal to make good power levels (that's what I am running with LG 1 7/8 Super Pro headers and X-pipe, cat-less).
Has Vito said go with a known grind, there is no valve to piston issues with most cams unless you mill the heads more than .030 and go with thinner head gaskets, then I would do a clay test to be sure what kind of clearances you are dealing with.
Has Vito said go with a known grind, there is no valve to piston issues with most cams unless you mill the heads more than .030 and go with thinner head gaskets, then I would do a clay test to be sure what kind of clearances you are dealing with.
08-09-2015, 01:29 PM
#7
Melting Slicks
You're right. I'm sorry. I see 522 HP and 501 torque. Very good torque number, but maybe a little low on the HP. What was the torque at 2000-3000 rpm?
91 or 93 octane?
The most important question is what exhaust valves did you use?
91 or 93 octane?
The most important question is what exhaust valves did you use?
08-09-2015, 02:36 PM
#8
Safety Car
The cam is way too small to keep up with all the other thing that you've had done. Go to a BTR Stage III or IV LS7 cam and I think all your problems will be over. Pretty much what the other guys are telling you.
Good luck.
Good luck.
08-09-2015, 05:52 PM
#9
Drifting
I went with a pretty small Lunati cam but came away with a REALLY strong torque curve. With a conservative tune mine is 560hp 515trq.
Your hp seems low but your trq is not to bad.
Your hp seems low but your trq is not to bad.
08-09-2015, 08:45 PM
#10
I am happy with the tq number, just a little disappointed with the horsepower number as I feel like I'm leaving a lot on the table, especially with headers, ported fast and heads.
08-10-2015, 07:31 AM
#11
Racer
I would definitely look at another cam even though those are decent numbers on a mustang dyno. With your 1.8 rockers you are .640 to .650 lift. There are better cams out there that are designed for LS7. I would trade some lift for duration and it will be easier on your valvetrain...
08-10-2015, 08:56 AM
#12
I would definitely look at another cam even though those are decent numbers on a mustang dyno. With your 1.8 rockers you are .640 to .650 lift. There are better cams out there that are designed for LS7. I would trade some lift for duration and it will be easier on your valvetrain...
08-10-2015, 09:05 AM
#13
MD dyno do read alot lower than other dynos when configured right and that cam is was small for a 427 what shop did the work and tuning thats like high performance cam for a 5.3 mild for a 6.0 and really u need to take it to the track and see the mph will tell u a better idea of power its making when i was full boltons light head work stock cam on my tuners MD dyno i made 490hp 485 trq in IN went to texas for tx2k put it on a MD dyno there made 526 hp 516 trq but it always trapped 127-128 so that told me i was making 550-560 crank hp
08-10-2015, 09:35 AM
#14
520'ish is about right for .223 / .050 intake duration. At least it looks honest. How's the curve look? I bet it's pretty flat.
So are not happy with how the car drives and feels? Or are you just not happy with that slip of paper?
Post the dyno sheet if you can. I'd be interested in seeing fuel ratio.
So are not happy with how the car drives and feels? Or are you just not happy with that slip of paper?
Post the dyno sheet if you can. I'd be interested in seeing fuel ratio.
08-11-2015, 07:34 AM
#17
It drives just as if it was stock, so it drives very good and mannered. I am curious to find out if I can just swap out the cam for a black widow cam or btr stage 3 cam without redoing everything.
08-11-2015, 10:04 AM
#19
Why did you go with that cam in the first place? Seems a bit counter productive to me to run a cam like that with ported heads, 2" headers and ported intake. That combination is begging for a lot more camshaft. I would caution you though, if stock-like drivability, and good street manners are important to you, don't let yourself get talked into running too much cam, or you will be a lot less happy with the car, than you are now.