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[Z06] LS7 and Supercharging - Risks

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Old 03-01-2015, 10:55 PM
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vtknight
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Default LS7 and Supercharging - Risks

Hi everyone,

First time buyer to the Corvette platform. I did my best to research all options from the C5 Z06 to the C6 ZR1.

The C6 Z06 seems - for my needs - to be the best for what I consider overall potential (what the car can do - road race and 1/4 as well as modding capacity) - and what you get with the car (its stock components - dry sump, trans, chassis etc.).

My question;

I have read many concerns on many threads about using a supercharger on an LS7. Cylinder wall thinness, weak sleeves and Pistons seem to be the primary points of concern.
Is this a stock internals worry?
Meaning; (for example) if pistons and sleeves are replaced - along with valves, rods and a mild cam - will this take care of most of the concerns? I recognize cylinder wall thinness doesn't go away - but is it still a major issue if the above is addressed?

I would have thought FI power adders wouldn't be an issue as there are many 1200+ RWHP twin turbo setups out there...

I recognize cooling will be an issue - which I intend to address as well as a beefier clutch.

I appreciate your input and time everyone!

Last edited by vtknight; 03-01-2015 at 11:05 PM.
Old 03-01-2015, 11:08 PM
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I'm looking at a 700-725 crank HP build - primarily for road course - but with roll/1/4 capability.

I recognize NA is usually best for road course - but I want a mild mannered car for cruising as well (so no loppy cams and throttle surge issues).

Thanks again...
Old 03-01-2015, 11:10 PM
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NavyAirTraffic
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Just search :-)

Let's Talk Boost (My thread )

Supercharging Thd LS7

Thinking About Boosting the LS7

I'm sure there's lot more. Good luck
Old 03-01-2015, 11:17 PM
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vtknight
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Originally Posted by NavyAirTraffic
Just search :-)

Let's Talk Boost (My thread )

Supercharging Thd LS7

Thinking About Boosting the LS7

I'm sure there's lot more. Good luck
This is perfect - thanks!

I have already went through many threads - but your thread helps me in the first post; forge the bottem end and you are likely fine.

EDIT: I actually already read the last two links lol...

Last edited by vtknight; 03-01-2015 at 11:42 PM.
Old 03-02-2015, 08:47 AM
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0ERL PERFORMANCE
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Default ERL Dry Sleeve Block

The safest way to go about this and if the budget allows would be to sleeve your block. We offer this service, all done in house using our own ductile iron ERL sleeves that are about 3 times stronger than cast iron. Our sleeves are also 5.800" in length.
We offer machined/sleeved blocks ready for assembly, fully build short blocks and long blocks.
Let me know if you would like more info and we'd be glad to assist.
Old 03-02-2015, 09:25 AM
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Michael_D
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Originally Posted by vtknight
This is perfect - thanks!

I have already went through many threads - but your thread helps me in the first post; forge the bottem end and you are likely fine.

EDIT: I actually already read the last two links lol...
I've posted the same thing, several times. I feel like a broke record, so I tend to avoid the boost threads...

I'll repeat one more time..... IF - you are going to boost this engine, or run it hard enough to warrant the need for forged pistons, you have reached a threshold where new sleeves are also required. ERL has a great reputation for doing this work, and you've got their attention.

The crank is mighty stout. I wouldn't worry about using it, or the rods up to 750 Crank, and 8000 rpm. I would however, have the rod's worked over (small end bushing and rod bolts).

For the power level you are shooting for, you can most likely hit that with 4 pounds and a slightly larger cam. For street / occasional strip use, OE components are just fine. For road racing......you should do some work to the short block.
Old 03-02-2015, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Michael_D
I've posted the same thing, several times. I feel like a broke record, so I tend to avoid the boost threads...

I'll repeat one more time..... IF - you are going to boost this engine, or run it hard enough to warrant the need for forged pistons, you have reached a threshold where new sleeves are also required. ERL has a great reputation for doing this work, and you've got their attention.

The crank is mighty stout. I wouldn't worry about using it, or the rods up to 750 Crank, and 8000 rpm. I would however, have the rod's worked over (small end bushing and rod bolts).

For the power level you are shooting for, you can most likely hit that with 4 pounds and a slightly larger cam. For street / occasional strip use, OE components are just fine. For road racing......you should do some work to the short block.
Great information everyone - thank-you!

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