[Z06] New wheel/tire combo for track days
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
New wheel/tire combo for track days
I need some noob advice... I have 275/35r19 and 345/25r20 Invos on Vossen wheels thanks to the previous owner. They look good but suck when it comes to performance. The car is lowered so the front does rub on full lock or hard corners so I know I want a smaller size up front. I want to start getting into track days but need a better wheel/tire setup. I can't spend a ton, new clutch, flex fuel conversion, and tune in a few weeks. I am shooting for 600rwhp. How much better of an experience will I have going back to stock Z06 wheels and some R888s or something of the like? Is it worth going for smaller wheels? I know there is a limit on how small due to the brakes. It looks like some people run stock sizes and other oversize a little bit. Advice on that? Thanks!
#2
Race Director
If you are OK with your 19/20 with the Invos for the street, get a set of 18F/18R wheels as you will have a wider variety of performance tires in the 18/18 sizes and they should clear the front brakes if you have the iron rotors. If you have the carbon ceramic, then you will probably need the 19 fronts. Stock 18/19 wheels can be bought used in the $500-600 range and would be OK too.
It is best if you haven't had road course experience to go with a set of street tires as you learn, then move up to track tires after you have experience. NT05's are a good street tire for the track. Michelin Pilot SuperSports are just a little more costly and have better grip. Once you get some good track experience you can move up to an R-compound track tire. Even with the stock 505 flywheel horsepower you will need to be patient on getting back into the throttle coming out of the corners. 600rwhp will also require patience even with Hoosier R6's or a full race tire.
To learn road circuit driving you don't need more than the stock HP.
It is best if you haven't had road course experience to go with a set of street tires as you learn, then move up to track tires after you have experience. NT05's are a good street tire for the track. Michelin Pilot SuperSports are just a little more costly and have better grip. Once you get some good track experience you can move up to an R-compound track tire. Even with the stock 505 flywheel horsepower you will need to be patient on getting back into the throttle coming out of the corners. 600rwhp will also require patience even with Hoosier R6's or a full race tire.
To learn road circuit driving you don't need more than the stock HP.
#3
Safety Car
Given the price constraints, stock split spokes (OEM as they are lighter) with used street tires initially would be your best bet for value and to learn on.
Once you have run those used tires off then a set of Toyos or equivalent will work.
You generally can find a set of mounted used tires/wheels on the C6 Parts for Sale every couple of weeks or so.
I just picked up a set of used OEM split spokes, mounted with lightly used Michelin PSSs for $1500.
Once you have run those used tires off then a set of Toyos or equivalent will work.
You generally can find a set of mounted used tires/wheels on the C6 Parts for Sale every couple of weeks or so.
I just picked up a set of used OEM split spokes, mounted with lightly used Michelin PSSs for $1500.
#4
Race Director
Given the price constraints, stock split spokes (OEM as they are lighter) with used street tires initially would be your best bet for value and to learn on.
Once you have run those used tires off then a set of Toyos or equivalent will work.
You generally can find a set of mounted used tires/wheels on the C6 Parts for Sale every couple of weeks or so.
I just picked up a set of used OEM split spokes, mounted with lightly used Michelin PSSs for $1500.
Once you have run those used tires off then a set of Toyos or equivalent will work.
You generally can find a set of mounted used tires/wheels on the C6 Parts for Sale every couple of weeks or so.
I just picked up a set of used OEM split spokes, mounted with lightly used Michelin PSSs for $1500.
#5
Get 18's for the track
I have CCW 18's all around. They clear the carbon ceramic rotors just fine and are lighter than the stock wheels (19,20).
For tires I use Hoosier R6 315/30 in front and 345/35 in the rear. I had a little rub on the front when I went to the 315's that required some trimming of the wheel well liner but it was worth it. Going from 295's to 315 made a huge difference in braking and corner entry. I usually replace the Hoosiers after 40 sessions even though there's still plenty of rubber left. Just remember to change side to side between weekends to keep the wear even. When the outer edges start to look worn they can be flipped on the wheel since they are not unidirectional. Then the outer edge becomes the inner edge.
For tires I use Hoosier R6 315/30 in front and 345/35 in the rear. I had a little rub on the front when I went to the 315's that required some trimming of the wheel well liner but it was worth it. Going from 295's to 315 made a huge difference in braking and corner entry. I usually replace the Hoosiers after 40 sessions even though there's still plenty of rubber left. Just remember to change side to side between weekends to keep the wear even. When the outer edges start to look worn they can be flipped on the wheel since they are not unidirectional. Then the outer edge becomes the inner edge.
Last edited by CHoward; 08-21-2014 at 12:55 PM.
#6
Tech Contributor
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I have CCW 18's all around. They clear the carbon ceramic rotors just fine and are lighter than the stock wheels (19,20).
For tires I use Hoosier R6 315/30 in front and 345/35 in the rear. I had a little rub on the front when I went to the 315's that required some trimming of the wheel well liner but it was worth it. Going from 295's to 315 made a huge difference in braking and corner entry. I usually replace the Hoosiers after 40 sessions even though there's still plenty of rubber left. Just remember to change side to side between weekends to keep the wear even. When the outer edges start to look worn they can be flipped on the wheel since they are not unidirectional. Then the outer edge becomes the inner edge.
For tires I use Hoosier R6 315/30 in front and 345/35 in the rear. I had a little rub on the front when I went to the 315's that required some trimming of the wheel well liner but it was worth it. Going from 295's to 315 made a huge difference in braking and corner entry. I usually replace the Hoosiers after 40 sessions even though there's still plenty of rubber left. Just remember to change side to side between weekends to keep the wear even. When the outer edges start to look worn they can be flipped on the wheel since they are not unidirectional. Then the outer edge becomes the inner edge.
Bill
#7
Race Director
What is the price on the CCW's for the OP - $ conscious. Also would you drive to the track on the setup? If OP is looking for inexpensive, that probably means no truck and trailer in addition to the other mods.
I'm amazed at getting 40 track sessions out of the R6's. At 20 minutes/session, that 13 hours of track time. I remember having to drive R6's for the 5th and 6th hour of an enduro and they had lost 4-5 seconds/lap and had just no grip. They should be even worse with at least 10 full heat cycles included in that 40 sessions.
I'm amazed at getting 40 track sessions out of the R6's. At 20 minutes/session, that 13 hours of track time. I remember having to drive R6's for the 5th and 6th hour of an enduro and they had lost 4-5 seconds/lap and had just no grip. They should be even worse with at least 10 full heat cycles included in that 40 sessions.
#8
#9
I think CCW charges somewhere around 750 per wheel. I bought mine used from my brother since he had 2 sets. If you have carbon ceramic rotors you need them to supply a spacer for the fronts.
I drive short distances on the R6's on the street, usually when I have to drop the car off for service. If you want to drive to the track I wouldn't recommend R6's of course.
The place where you'll save money is on tires because 18 inch tires are cheaper than 19/20.
I trailer it because I've had things break or fail. That trailer was $2300 new. All it takes is a faulty TPMS sensor to make your car undriveable since it goes into limp home mode if it thinks you have a flat. I've had several sensors just go bad.
Remember that you'll need a TPMS programmer if you go back and forth between wheel sets. I got mine from West Coast Corvettes for under $100. Of course you're still screwed if the sensor goes bad at 150 mph and the car goes into limp home mode and tries to make you crash. It's happened to me multiple times at VIR and Road Atlanta.
I finally solved the issue with a TPMS eliminator from LG Motorsports. I can drive entire weekends with car telling me I have a flat tire and it doesn't go into limp home. I suspect the device may raise the threshold for limp home from 55 up to something much higher like 205 mph.
My Z is much easier on tires than my 911 was. The R6's are great for my out lap through about lap six then I see a steady drop in lap times. I wouldn't want to stay out more than 15 laps on them at a time.
I drive short distances on the R6's on the street, usually when I have to drop the car off for service. If you want to drive to the track I wouldn't recommend R6's of course.
The place where you'll save money is on tires because 18 inch tires are cheaper than 19/20.
I trailer it because I've had things break or fail. That trailer was $2300 new. All it takes is a faulty TPMS sensor to make your car undriveable since it goes into limp home mode if it thinks you have a flat. I've had several sensors just go bad.
Remember that you'll need a TPMS programmer if you go back and forth between wheel sets. I got mine from West Coast Corvettes for under $100. Of course you're still screwed if the sensor goes bad at 150 mph and the car goes into limp home mode and tries to make you crash. It's happened to me multiple times at VIR and Road Atlanta.
I finally solved the issue with a TPMS eliminator from LG Motorsports. I can drive entire weekends with car telling me I have a flat tire and it doesn't go into limp home. I suspect the device may raise the threshold for limp home from 55 up to something much higher like 205 mph.
My Z is much easier on tires than my 911 was. The R6's are great for my out lap through about lap six then I see a steady drop in lap times. I wouldn't want to stay out more than 15 laps on them at a time.
#10
Except....
Road Atlanta 1:38's with 35 sessions on the tires. Would have qualified 5th for the SCCA T1 race. With my wife in the car.
VIR 2:03 which is 3 seconds off the all time T1 lap record. Plus my car is unmodified.
#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
CCWs are out of my price range for this year. I found a local guy selling stock Z06 wheels that I think I'll try. I do intend on driving to events on these wheels/tires. Probably 60 miles for now... Heartland Park, Topeka. I'll take a look at the tires you guys recommended. Thanks!
#13
Drifting
Look for used for better pricing . Look at 18x10 fr and 18x12 rear forgestars,they are lightweight and 1500 to your door new and get mt 345 in as tall as u can get 40 or bigger rear and maybe nt05 285 fronts. I have nto5r rear not as sticky as mt ..if you daily drive it these tires are bad in the rain.600 rw will break all street tires in first. Im looking into light weight 345s tires because 345 looks cool. mts and nt05rs are 35 lbs each...I have 315/40/17 drag radials and they are not good for streets. That compound no good,, to soft for streets..Mt st street s good and sticky. 20 inch is for show with stock hp. sell those
#14
Race Director
Look for used for better pricing . Look at 18x10 fr and 18x12 rear forgestars,they are lightweight and 1500 to your door new and get mt 345 in as tall as u can get 40 or bigger rear and maybe nt05 285 fronts. I have nto5r rear not as sticky as mt ..if you daily drive it these tires are bad in the rain.600 rw will break all street tires in first. Im looking into light weight 345s tires because 345 looks cool. mts and nt05rs are 35 lbs each...I have 315/40/17 drag radials and they are not good for streets. That compound no good,, to soft for streets..Mt st street s good and sticky. 20 inch is for show with stock hp. sell those
#15
Drifting
I believe nt05rs would be good for beginner road course in 35 height...Having 600 rwhp makes many tires dangerous to have on..I used to be all over the place with Michelins..So get a grippy tire r compound for street ..road course would make up what 3% percent of his driving..
#16
Race Director
I believe nt05rs would be good for beginner road course in 35 height...Having 600 rwhp makes many tires dangerous to have on..I used to be all over the place with Michelins..So get a grippy tire r compound for street ..road course would make up what 3% percent of his driving..
Last edited by AzDave47; 08-25-2014 at 06:57 PM.
#17
Instructor
Nice Driving!
That would be the obvious explanation
Except....
Road Atlanta 1:38's with 35 sessions on the tires. Would have qualified 5th for the SCCA T1 race. With my wife in the car.
Chin Motorsports Road Atlanta Z06 - YouTube
VIR 2:03 which is 3 seconds off the all time T1 lap record. Plus my car is unmodified.
Except....
Road Atlanta 1:38's with 35 sessions on the tires. Would have qualified 5th for the SCCA T1 race. With my wife in the car.
Chin Motorsports Road Atlanta Z06 - YouTube
VIR 2:03 which is 3 seconds off the all time T1 lap record. Plus my car is unmodified.
That's is some smooth driving my man. Just picked up a C6 Z51 and I am looking to track it. Can't wait to build up my racing skills and rip past the Porches like you did. I am in the same boat about wheel and tire setup, but I think this thread helped me out a bit. I'm going to run my street tires until I get better at the track then invest in a new setup.