JwT

From what I know now I would. But just because you buy a year or two newer doesn't mean you won't run into some of the same problems. Any used car is a gamble. You don't know how the car was used....... or abused for that matter. I paid $165.00 for an inspection and my car rated a Great Buy. About a month later things were not so great. And while I never expected to drop the money in the car I have, I did expect to spend money.

People usually trade these cars in for a number of reasons, one of which is that after a few years and miles things start to need attention. And as I said before the parts for these cars are not cheap. The run flat tires you need on this car(because it doesn't come with a spare or jack) can cost upwards of $2500.00 and that's just the tires! I guess the point I'm trying to make here(and some will disagree) is that the Z06 is not the car to buy if your on a tight budget or if it's the only car you will have to drive. Have you checked into the insurance on the car yet?

I'm the last guy here who would want to talk anyone out of buying a Z06. I love the **** out of my Z. But if you can't afford to fix the problems that may arise with the purchase, it could be one nasty experience.

pikemike428

I have a feeling it was female owned. No mods, and no signs of previous mods, and the engine bay is FILTHY. No self respected male Z owner would let their engine bay get this bad.

pikemike428

here are 2 shots

pikemike428

Would be a weekend car not a DD, so even if I couldnt fix it at the very moment, it wouldnt impede my ability to get to work, etc. Budget is not tight, just dont like blowing money that I dont have to. Wouldnt be life altering if i needed to fix a few items down the road, but I would not spend $15k on fixing issues on a $32k car. I would sell it before that happened.

NavyAirTraffic

I bought my Z without checking this forum... then I learned of the "valve issue". I set up my head-work at American Heritage (WCCH is a very popular one), then I contacted a local R+R shop and told them "check the valves, if the valves are bad just keep taking the car apart and ship them to AH, if the guides are good... put the car back together". So best case scenario I spent $400 for the "wiggle test"... however my guides were bad so I spent around $3,500 total (head-work, R+R, and gaskets/fluids/etc). Now I ROMP on it without any fears.... for now (getting the valves checked again in 3000mi just to be sure).

-Tires, I just purchased the rears 60% tread used tires from TireKingzAtl (but you can find them anywhere) for $350 to my door. However I am upgrading to Michelin PSS (non-runflat) 285 front and 345 rears.... 345/285 and non-runflat for added traction $1,475 shipped to my door (no tax, no shipping charge to AZ), or have Discount Tire price match (that's what I'm doing, $1,600 for MPSS out the door installed).

-I had ALL the fluids changed out as soon as I bought it (at the dealer), roughly $500 total.

Best case you'll spend $1,500 (fluids/wiggle test/used rear tires) for "in spec guides". Worst case just add another $3,500 to that number (~$1,000 less if you do the R+R) for out of spec guides. The risks are the same on every LS7 that you buy, no year is safe.

If I had to do over again (knowing beforehand the valve issue), I think I would've bought a Viper instead. Then again, I have no idea if they have a problem with the Vipers on par with the Z's. I will say that now my car is 100% mechanically, I absolutely LOVE IT... wait for the oil to heat up and GOOOOOO!! Downshift to second at 60mph on the freeway, gun it, and try to slap the smile off your face for the rest of the day. That's what I pay for.

JwT

Well let me say that I didn't buy the car knowing that it would take so much cash to get it right. It happened over a 1 year period. There's some things that I just don't do. When my mech had the tranny out I could have waited for awhile on the torque tube and Scoogin Dickey clutch. But because the car was down It made good since to have it done. As I said I could have saved about half the price of the heads by just rebuilding mine. I bought new painted to match calipers because the red ones were scratched, that's just me. I would never put used non run flat tires on a car that's capable of running close to 200 mph, that sounds dangerous to me just running the speed limit.

Remember what your buying here. You can't buy any parts for this car at Auto Zone. It's a factory race car and any part on it needs to be high quality. I did have some issues with my 07 and I would do things differently. But I would still have bought a Z06. The damn thing is a true supercar on a beer budget. It'll blow the doors off just about any Ferrari that costs less than 300k and still get 25mpg. Buy the car.....sounds like you have most of the bases covered. Keep us posted.

John's vette

My 2007 has 96k and I have had zero problems. Drive it every day. I have considered selling mine and still would expect to get 30-32k for it. My '98 C5 is still going after 250k miles. These cars if maintained well will keep going and going.

pikemike428

Thanks!

They are taking it to the Chevy dealer to check the tranny whine. My father works for the dealership that is selling it, so they wont BS me if there are issues. Chevy dealer will also give me all mechanical/service/warranty issues the car has had repaired or replaced. Going to do as much due dilligence as possible, and make a decision based on facts.

If it is mechanically sound, and has a good service history, I am buying. If it doesnt, it can get sold to some other schmuck!

Z06pete

From the looks of that engine bay..... Maybe Flood car?

Svre46

I would say more like 2k for out of spec guides with labor and new SS valves. $3500 if you are getting titanium and some sort of porting. But lets not get into a valve debate.

OP just take your time and get one that you don't have to mess with. Either with some head work done and documented or a clean stock one with low miles but plan a wiggle test. 40k should be a good budget for clean and low miles

Mine for example was $42k 2lz black 19k miles a tad over a year ago. No track, new tires, flawless paint.
-$2k in extras it came with I sold (audio system, B&B Bullets, random accessories) = $40k
+$1800 for head "fix" no porting @ Speed Inc.

Ended up doing a Cam myself and getting her tuned. Could not be happier.

Rupert pupkin

A good price is NO price...lol With that many miles, 32-35k...NO more

pikemike428

Thats good to hear. I am very confident I could buy this at low $30k mark, but if there are tranny issues, im going to pass. If it wasnt maintained, I am going to pass as well. If both are in order, im doing the deal today or tomorrow.

Svre46

low 30k mark could be a great deal.

pikemike428

So I test drove it tonight. Car felt pretty good for a almost 50k mile car. The noise I reported before is not a transmission wine, but more like a light rattle/grind when you get off the gas in lower gears. Sound can be heard and slightly felt through the shifter.

In any event they are sending it tomorrow morning to Chevrolet Service Department to try and figure it out.

Other thing I noticed is scratches on one headlight which almost looked like something hit it on one headlight and caused it to spiderweb a little.

Other thing was rear caliper paint is chipping/fading a bit. Not huge, but I can tell.

Small things here and there, but **** it's a used car.

If anyone has any thoughts or know what that shifter noise is, let me know. In my experience with bad synchros, it comes out of gear easily, and it wasn't doing that. No grind between gears that I could tell.

pikemike428

*whine

Mark2009

You want cheese wit dat?


I'm still thinking throwout bearing, but I am very far from an expert on those matters and could easily be wrong. How does it feel/sound pushing/releasing the clutch slowly? (well, since it's hydraulic you may not get much feel feedback). I don't think synchros. If the GM dealer is not sure, you might try to locate a good transmission shop (specialist) to drive it / check it. Or perhaps a forum vendor will pop up with some advice/suggestions.

Edit: try this list of forum transmission vendors in FL... maybe someone close to you... http://forums.corvetteforum.com/vend...8&location=141

.

pikemike428

Thats what i am hoping it is! I am sure the mechanic will be able to figure it out tomorrow. If it is a cheap fix-it will hopefully be mine this weekend.

Do Z's also have a fair amount of brake squeal when cold?

pikemike428

So took the car to chevy dealer to have mechanic inspect. Good news is he worked on this very car before when the old owner owned it. Guy spent about $5,000 in maintenance over the past 10 months-new front tires, fluid changes, new clutch master cylinder, new battery, new alternator (iirc), labor, etc. Guy said its in perfect mechanical shape, and he checked the valve tolerances when it was in previously, and it was fine. The light noise in the shifter at low rpms he said is normal in these cars.

I should be buying it tomorrow

JJC5

My '06 Z had shifter rattle (of which there is a TSB on) and it was changed under warranty . That fixed the rattle at low RPMS. It was more like a buzzing that you could feel in the shifter while accelerating. There is also a rattle at low RPMS while the clutch is engaging fully and you're bogging it slightly. Happens in 2nd as well if your RPMS are low. This is known as the "Marbles in a can syndrome" and is completely normal. That name was given to it because it does really sound like that.... Good luck. I'm sure your deal is a good one.

pikemike428

Bought the car today! Thanks to everyone for your help during the process and assisting during my 99 questions.