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[Z06] Thinking of doing heads/cam. Need info

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Old 11-14-2013, 10:21 PM
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brewersprts
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Default Thinking of doing heads/cam. Need info

Ok guys. Like everyone else on this forum I have been worried about dropping a valve and blowing my motor. It seems like this is more and more frequent, why that is could be for many reasons but we'll leave that for another day. Well, it's winter, and I also tore my Achilles recently so I wouldn't be able to drive the Z for a long time anyways, so I figured this would be a good time to do something about it.

Anyways, my first though was just to the wiggle test. Well that would be a few hundred bucks down the drain if my valves were out of spec. Plus, even if they weren't, that is no guarantee that they wouldn't be out of spec down the road.

My next thought was just to remove the heads myself, have them fixed, reinstall them myself and just go about my day. Hopefully not having to worry about blowing a slightly expensive engine. Well, for just a little bit more money, I could be making some more power, and more power is never a bad thing, just ask Jeremy Clarkson.

That lead me thinking to doing a head/cam swap and having a car that sounds great, makes good power, and hopefully doesn't blow up.

In my search for answers to all these questions I seem to just end up with more questions.

Anyone have any head/cam combos that they really like? I would like to know what is the best bang for the buck.
Will I be able to make big power and still drive down the highway in 6th with the A/C on while getting decent mpg without having bad surging like I have felt in other cammed cars? I don't want to have my check engine light coming on all the time or having to find race fuel to run on.

I would also like to do as much work myself as I can because I am cheap labor. This is what makes me want to just return my car to stock, then I don't have to worry about getting a tune or anything.

Would I be foolish to send my heads to WCCH or American Heritage Performance and just getting new valves/guides and putting the car back together. Going through all that work without making any more power. On the other hand, 505hp is nothing to sneeze at.

Obviously I'm lost, so somebody steer me in the right direction.
Old 11-14-2013, 10:25 PM
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P.S. Thanks in advance for any or all help that you guys have.

I have emailed WCCH and Katech, anyone else I should talk to?

I also figured it would be better to ask people on here that have had real world experiences with different companies and also don't have anything to gain by me buying something.
Old 11-14-2013, 10:35 PM
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ZedNought6
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I just got the Katech torquer 116 put in. Highway driving in 6th is no problemo, It was 48 today, but I doubt my AC has been affected.

I sent my heads to WCCH, there are several theories and not enough facts to really pin down an absolute "fix", at least that is my opinion. I just rolled the dice on a cost effective option. I plan following up on the valves as they age and intervening as required. You can spend 2k or 10k on heads.
Old 11-14-2013, 10:48 PM
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lawman34203
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I have the Torquer 116 with WCCH built heads, along with PFADT headers and Corsas. My car sounds awsome, pulls hard and when all the power is not needed it cruises great in 6th (with the ac). This has me at 567 rwph and I love this combo.
Old 11-14-2013, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by brewersprts
Ok guys. Like everyone else on this forum I have been worried about dropping a valve and blowing my motor. It seems like this is more and more frequent, why that is could be for many reasons but we'll leave that for another day. Well, it's winter, and I also tore my Achilles recently so I wouldn't be able to drive the Z for a long time anyways, so I figured this would be a good time to do something about it.

Anyways, my first though was just to the wiggle test. Well that would be a few hundred bucks down the drain if my valves were out of spec. Plus, even if they weren't, that is no guarantee that they wouldn't be out of spec down the road.

My next thought was just to remove the heads myself, have them fixed, reinstall them myself and just go about my day. Hopefully not having to worry about blowing a slightly expensive engine. Well, for just a little bit more money, I could be making some more power, and more power is never a bad thing, just ask Jeremy Clarkson.

That lead me thinking to doing a head/cam swap and having a car that sounds great, makes good power, and hopefully doesn't blow up.

In my search for answers to all these questions I seem to just end up with more questions.

Anyone have any head/cam combos that they really like? I would like to know what is the best bang for the buck.
Will I be able to make big power and still drive down the highway in 6th with the A/C on while getting decent mpg without having bad surging like I have felt in other cammed cars? I don't want to have my check engine light coming on all the time or having to find race fuel to run on.

I would also like to do as much work myself as I can because I am cheap labor. This is what makes me want to just return my car to stock, then I don't have to worry about getting a tune or anything.

Would I be foolish to send my heads to WCCH or American Heritage Performance and just getting new valves/guides and putting the car back together. Going through all that work without making any more power. On the other hand, 505hp is nothing to sneeze at.

Obviously I'm lost, so somebody steer me in the right direction.
With regard to some of your concerns listed above:

Katech Torquer 110 cam, and everybody in here by now likely knows what heads and what valves I run with it.

These are both 6th gear. The second one up hill.

6th gear


6th gear

The video below shows 14-17mph 1st gear crawl, with little to no bucking. You can hear people honking their horns in the background.



Last edited by '06 Quicksilver Z06; 11-14-2013 at 11:27 PM.
Old 11-14-2013, 11:26 PM
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ZedNought6
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I have the Torquer 116 with WCCH built heads, along with PFADT headers and Corsas. My car sounds awsome, pulls hard and when all the power is not needed it cruises great in 6th (with the ac). This has me at 567 rwph and I love this combo.
Gees! I only got 537hp out of that combo! Well minus the corsas
Old 11-15-2013, 12:40 AM
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I would be curious to know if you were on a mustang dyno and if the other poster was on a dynojet. There have been some significant differences between the dynos.

Originally Posted by ZedNought6
Gees! I only got 537hp out of that combo! Well minus the corsas
Old 11-15-2013, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by brewersprts
Ok guys. Like everyone else on this forum I have been worried about dropping a valve and blowing my motor. It seems like this is more and more frequent, why that is could be for many reasons but we'll leave that for another day. Well, it's winter, and I also tore my Achilles recently so I wouldn't be able to drive the Z for a long time anyways, so I figured this would be a good time to do something about it.

Anyways, my first though was just to the wiggle test. Well that would be a few hundred bucks down the drain if my valves were out of spec. Plus, even if they weren't, that is no guarantee that they wouldn't be out of spec down the road.

My next thought was just to remove the heads myself, have them fixed, reinstall them myself and just go about my day. Hopefully not having to worry about blowing a slightly expensive engine. Well, for just a little bit more money, I could be making some more power, and more power is never a bad thing, just ask Jeremy Clarkson.

That lead me thinking to doing a head/cam swap and having a car that sounds great, makes good power, and hopefully doesn't blow up.

In my search for answers to all these questions I seem to just end up with more questions.

Anyone have any head/cam combos that they really like? I would like to know what is the best bang for the buck.
Will I be able to make big power and still drive down the highway in 6th with the A/C on while getting decent mpg without having bad surging like I have felt in other cammed cars? I don't want to have my check engine light coming on all the time or having to find race fuel to run on.

I would also like to do as much work myself as I can because I am cheap labor. This is what makes me want to just return my car to stock, then I don't have to worry about getting a tune or anything.

Would I be foolish to send my heads to WCCH or American Heritage Performance and just getting new valves/guides and putting the car back together. Going through all that work without making any more power. On the other hand, 505hp is nothing to sneeze at.

Obviously I'm lost, so somebody steer me in the right direction.

We have tons of options for you.

No AC issues - No surging issue - No race fuel needs and so on. You simply choose the flavor you want, and we can make it happen.

Visit www.vette-air.com

Or, feel free to call me directly at 214-491-8314 or PM me.

Thanks,
Carlos
Old 11-15-2013, 07:57 AM
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lawman34203
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Originally Posted by LT1Pat
I would be curious to know if you were on a mustang dyno and if the other poster was on a dynojet. There have been some significant differences between the dynos.
Mustang dyno, also have a cold air intake and a good tune, Matt at FSP did the work, he knows what he does.
Old 11-15-2013, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by brewersprts
Ok guys. Like everyone else on this forum I have been worried about dropping a valve and blowing my motor. It seems like this is more and more frequent, why that is could be for many reasons but we'll leave that for another day. Well, it's winter, and I also tore my Achilles recently so I wouldn't be able to drive the Z for a long time anyways, so I figured this would be a good time to do something about it.

Anyways, my first though was just to the wiggle test. Well that would be a few hundred bucks down the drain if my valves were out of spec. Plus, even if they weren't, that is no guarantee that they wouldn't be out of spec down the road.[...]
There is no guarantee that any 'fix' won't be out of spec down the road, and in fact some of them have been found to be out of spec down the road (and/or damn close to it after 20-25K miles). Sorry to rain on your parade. My advice is always don't fix what ain't broke, and keep invasion into the engine to the minimum needed to accomplish the goal since opening any engine up, in the field, risk a lot of dirt getting inside... dirt that you may not see but your bearings and cylinder walls will. Some shops are more aware of that than others, I would think.

However, despite what some are promoting on this forum, if a set of OEM heads have good guides in them at 30K-40K miles, then there is no logical reason at all for them to have a problem in the future. All indications are that the problem reveals itself by 20-30K miles, and many times at miles half that or less. Odds are that your heads do have wear, but if they don't then odds are that they never will.

The head swap deal is littered with tragic stories, but they usually fade quickly (or are expunged) and don't get promoted like the success stories....
broken aftermarket rocker bolts (head removal -- again -- needed),
broken aftermarket trunnion circlips,
trashed cam/crank bearings (debris in engine during head swap -- new engine needed),
aftermarket valves with mashed stems due to QC failure (head removal -- again -- needed),
stock valves broken due to missing lash caps (installer error -- new engine needed),
etc.
Choose wisely.
Old 11-15-2013, 10:11 AM
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I would be curious to know if you were on a mustang dyno and if the other poster was on a dynojet. There have been some significant differences between the dynos.
It was a DynaPack, and it was tuned by Brian Reckart.
Old 11-15-2013, 11:27 AM
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Despicable Z
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Another Katech 116 / ported / worked heads combo here. Love it- highly recommend for a mild setup. Has me about 530 / 500- perfect streetable combo.
Old 11-15-2013, 11:32 AM
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I have the Katech torquer 116 with .030 milled heads, PSI high lift valve springs, C5-R timing chain, ATI super damper 10% underdrive, vararam CAI, Kooks longtubes, no cats and B&B Fusion and tune. It is a awsome setup and sounds amazing!! Alittle surge at low RPMs but not bad. No dyno numbers yet but coming soon.

Last edited by 1BDZ06; 11-15-2013 at 11:37 AM.
Old 11-15-2013, 12:10 PM
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I have a lot of customers that really like the Katech cams as well

Old 11-15-2013, 12:58 PM
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FNBADAZ06
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First gen Katech 110, milled .030 WCCH with STOCK OEM valves and Katech spring kit, Katech LS9X clutch, FAST/NW102, 1 7/8 ceramic headers, ZR1 cans, on corn juice...570/550...with 500 RWTQ at 3000 rpm, and a solid lifter muscle car idle to DIE for.

Tracked it at 5700+ DA on drag radials, car still went 10.7@130. With good winter air, who knows what this car is going to do.

Perfect...other than destroying tires.
Old 11-15-2013, 01:06 PM
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Give LMR a call as well
Old 11-15-2013, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by brewersprts
Would I be foolish to send my heads to WCCH or American Heritage Performance and just getting new valves/guides and putting the car back together. Going through all that work without making any more power. On the other hand, 505hp is nothing to sneeze at.

Obviously I'm lost, so somebody steer me in the right direction.
No it would not be foolish to just do head work and not do a cam. Some customers want to keep things for the most part internally stock. With that being said it is advisable that if finances allow to install a camshaft package while you have the heads off (most of the work is already done). We have done daily driving C6 Z06 camshaft packages that make anywhere from 520RWHP to 590RWHP. Need to comply or not comply with local laws can dictate how extreme you get with your camshaft profile.

OP I agree with you 505 flywheel HP is nothing to sneeze about but drive around a 560+ rear wheel HP Z06 for a while and you will never look at 505 flywheel HP the same again.

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Old 11-15-2013, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by American Heritage
OP I agree with you 505 flywheel HP is nothing to sneeze about but drive around a 560+ rear wheel HP Z06 for a while and you will never look at 505 flywheel HP the same again.
True that !
Old 11-15-2013, 04:17 PM
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Old 12-24-2013, 09:07 AM
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Quick and everyone else who went with WCCH, why did you go with WCCH heads instead of going aftermarket? Like a set of PRC 265? Quick, I know you bought an extra set of heads (I assume to avoid the downtime) so seems like you especially would be interested in going with aftermarket heads and then just selling your stockers.

Also, it seems like PRC 265 and LS7S/LS7R cars are making more power than you guys going with WCCH and Torquer cams, but maybe I am wrong. It's hard to judge one to one because everyone goes with different supporting mods


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