Nate B

My car has the torquer 110 in it and has very good drivability and makes over 550whp. I'm in north Austin/round rock if you would like to go for a ride. I wouldn't focus on Texas speed as there are many other cams out there that will out perform them.

WhiteDiamond

I am running the Stalker cam in mine and making 558rwhp/522rwtq. While I do not like the very slight surging at low rpms, most people wanting a cam'd Z would love it. I am in South Austin.

My personal thought is a cam any larger than the Stalker isn't going to be very useful to you in Austin traffic if you DD. The Stalker can be a bit "needy" at times, the low RPM surge creates a lot of clutch work when creeping along with these heavy traffic situations in Austin........Not fun.

ZedNought6

I teach out of ACC Round Rock every Tuesday, and I have office hours out that way Wednesdays. If you have time one of those days let me know and I'd love a ride along! Lunch my treat!

Yeah, I'm frustrated enough in traffic without fighting with MY car too. Definitely not "stalking" that cam...thanks for the intel!

Spiffshady

How about that new Katech cam? Is it the K501 or something like that?

Unreal

That is a bigger nastier cam over the torquer 110.

DaOtherOne

K501 Camshaft
Specifications 235 / 251 @ .050, . 657/ .660 lift, 113 LSA

Torquer LS7 Camshaft
Specifications 220 / 244 @ .050, .615 / .648 lift, 110 LSA +004

FNBADAZ06

Put a Katech 116 in it and call it a day !!!
With a proper tune, that would get you to 600+ crank HP and drive like stock all day and twice on Sunday.

With your driving requirements, forget about 600 RWHP N/A power.

VetteVinnie

Next time you're headed to the Houston area, shoot me a PM. My car is exactly like this - a monster when I get on the throttle, but very tame for around town cruising. I can coast it all the way down to 1000 RPM in 5th and 6th with no problem (50-55 MPH in 6th = no problem).

Doesn't idle like stock, but idles exceptionally smooth for the power it's putting down. I plan to create a drivability video after I get the tune adjusted to compensate for the newly built forged engine I just put in.

BLACKVETTE102

honestly after owning a lot of cammed car's I do not think I would want to drive any cammed car in traffic everyday even with a baby cam.

I mean a heads/cam swap is not cheap. You can make 500+ rwhp with headers/tune/intake/FAST/TB. What are you going to make with a heads and cam swap with a small cam that drives near stock. 550 rwhp? and out of that how much is the headwork doing. In reality a small cam may only do 20-30 rwhp. And unless you do the work yourself a heads/cam swap usually runs 5-6 grand easy. The whole swap is like $120 per hp.

You can buy an A&A blower kit. The V2/V3 are silent you wouldn't even be able to tell with the hood closed. and you make 600+ rwhp for like almost the same money. it ends up being like 75 buck per hp. And retains 100% stock drivability. Even a baby cam will have minor effects on drivability.

I'm doing heads/cam personally but with a big cam since my car sits in the garage all day. I wouldn't put a cam in a dailydriven car that has to sit in traffic. And if you do it's a lot of expense for not a whole lot of gain vs leaving the car with bolt ons. It just makes a lot more sense with a blower especially if you do not want to compromise with the 600 hp number.

Unreal

But if he wants to road race I wouldn't want a intercooler blocking the radiator.

ZedNought6

I wish I could get out of Austin! Work has be busy as hell, I only take sanity breaks to dream about long drives to anyplace but work. May I ask the particulars of your setup?

I wrote an email to my perspective installer and indicated my choice of supporting mods and the intent for the car. I'm scratching the 600 whp goal...that seems lofty and unrealistic for what I want to do. I included a choice of cams and offered for him to suggest others. In my lineup are the Torquer 110, Lingenfelter GT19, and the Texas Speed sleeper cam. Also requested a quote for install. I hope to hell it is not in the 5-6K area for labor, that seems a little crazy! I'm expecting 2.5K would be more normal.

I'll report back with their thoughts, my final decision and I will create a new thread when I get it all bolted in and give dyno #s and my impression of driveability.

Thanks everyone thus far for your input and offers of assistance.

FNBADAZ06

FYI...I have the Torquer 110, and based on what I've seen you write, it would be too lumpy for you. The idle is reminicent of a 60's era solid lifter big block car under 900 RPM idle, and will rock the car side to side (especially when the A/C is on and the RPM drops accordingly).

For near stock idle and driving charactertics, I'd stick with the 116, which has zero overlap.

ZedNought6

^^^ was just reading about the 116 as a matter of fact. If I recollect there is also only a small difference in HP output as well. I think it was mentioned that the 116 is their FI cam? Well then if I ever decided to tack on a SC for some nutty reason at least that cam could stay.

I'm going to try and get with a forum member and see if the 110 is too much though, I do need some base of reference since I've never ridden in an old school muscle car. My dad was a "cars are for transportation" kind of guy. My uncle is a gear head though, but his cars never run!!! Perpetual projects.

WhiteKnight

I've got a Torquer 116 in mine. I'm right at 540 rwhp with exhaust, Halltech and WCCH stage 2 heads. I'm in North Central Austin. You're welcome to check mine out and see what you think. Maybe take a ride in a 110 and 116 and compare.

bigterpsfan

227/243 115lsa here. 556whp and has with very little surging (if any). However, it rocks back and forth a fair amount at a 900rpm idle.

BLACKVETTE102

That's true I saw about a 20 degree increase in oil temps on my old supercharged C6.

2.5k would be normal for labor. But you need headwork, cam, pushrods, head gaskets, head bolts at the least. And a timing chain, lifters, rocker arms if you want to do everything. That's between 2500 and 3500 in parts

Michael_D

EPS ls7 sleeper. Or leave it be. Upgrade oil cooling. Better seats too.

ZedNought6

Damn i wish it were that cheap! The total build will be:
Dewitts radiator
NW 102mm TB
FAST 102 Mani
PRC Heads with Ti intake valves and SS exhaust valves
Cloyes Timing Gear with C5R chain
Pfadt Tri-Y headers with 1 7/8 primaries and HF cats
Abs of steel tunnel brace

...Lots of cheddar spent. Or I can spend a little less and go to Dallas and do the 21st Century Muscle Cars Lingenfelter 650hp package. Since I have no way to turn wrenches here in Texas (no tools nor able friends) I was hoping at least to get a little satisfaction at doing the research and putting together my own package. Mind you this is stage 1 next is suspension, brakes and clutch upgrade, then a bunch of vanity and aesthetic stuff. I know too much spent on just a car, but I have no kids, no nagging wife...and ya only live once, so why the hell not

Blackonblacksls

Look at the videos I posted in the tick performance back on cf thread.

Thier polluter cam is my favorite yet and I have tried a
Few of the major ones that everyone else likes.

BLACKVETTE102

o i agree 100% i mean personally that's all i do. i assumed you had the acompying bolt ons. With those too it will get real expensive. Honestly having gone supercharged on a few cars and heads and cam on a few I would definatly consider a centrifurgul blower with the dewitts radiator and headers. I have never owned a cammed car that I would drive everyday. And although there are small cams available that will drive near stock it's a lot of expense to only gain an extra 40-50 hp. And the thing with power is you always want more.