Frans96ss

Glad you are happy with it. its like a hidden gem haha... I dont have a fancy name for my cam so i dont sell a ton of them. Im ok with that though. I know it works for my customers.

PRE-Z06

Can't get the 2nd vid to play, but was the tuner not the same? Do you have a dyno graph you can post to see when the best shift points would be to maximize average power?

PRE-Z06

I agree naming a cam doesn't cause it to make more power

Stage IT

B-3 sound fancy to me lol. you guys gonna go to the MIR track rental they do on here
here is the bolt on on 19s video. same tuner but he started off of a diff base file . i'm shifting the same but now its like the car is closing the throttle blade or something
dyno sheet
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.n...70812273_n.jpg

jnv255

You don't happen to know the back spacing do you? Wanting to order some and I want to make sure I get the right ones... I didn't know a 17in rim would fit on the front... Hmm.
Can you get 17x12 with those rims and is there a reason you went with x10's??.. Also, how much was your setup and where did you get your rims and tires from, if you don't mind me asking?
So when you put bias plys all the way around, the bad sway stopped? I don't like running bias plys and factory fronts as it gets a little loose to say the lease.. It wants to dance all over and it's not fun.
Isn't bias plys or straight up slicks easier on your drivetrain? I know you hook better, but doesn't the flex in the sidewall help to keep things from breaking?

If I switch to a drag radial with 17x12, 17x10, or keep the factory C5Z rims for now'... What's the best DR, bias ply, or slick to get, hoosier, M&H, MT??? I've always ran MT slicks on other cars, but I'm seeing more and more Hoosiers lately.
If I stay on the C5Z fronts for now (which I probably will), what's the best DR for that rim? 17x9.5 rim... I think. Might just be cheaper right now to buy some skinnies and throw a bias ply on em, until I can afford the rears... But either way, I would like to know where you got them from and what back spasing for the front and rears... Plz sir.
It's got MT ET streets on it now and like I said; it just wonders to much for me. A couple passes and there's no worries, then the next pass you would think I hit fluid on the track...
I just built the car, so I'm trying to recover from the build, that's why I can't afford all new rims and tires at the moment..
Thanks in advance and those are some nice times dude. I hope mine runs that well or better
Just put ARH headers, Heads, LS7R cam (658 lift 114+3 lsa) ported fast 102, NW 102 TB, meth kit, etc, etc.
Sorry for the 10 million questions (. I've had a beer or two) I just want to get the it right the first timeZ thanks again
Nick V.

GARY2004Z06

Nice pass. Car looks great with the bolted R/Ts. I ordered that style from Bogart. When I opened the boxes, much to my surprise I saw bolted D-10s. Richie was originally suppose to make me bolted R/Ts but he apparently got a little confused with an order that robz put in. I did not have the heart to tell him at the time. It all worked out in the end. (Besides, I made robz sell me one of his sets to match that we were no longer using on his car.)

LS9Drew

Sounds like you have an awesome setup, what valves do u have?

PRE-Z06

Might have something to do with the tuning after cam, I'd get with your tuner on that. Cam carries power out well past 7k and torque peak isn't till 5300, so I'd shift as close to 7300 limiter as possible to maximize the average power with your shift extension. Here's a calculator that will help you see the rpm drop...
http://www.f-body.org/gears/

Stage IT

Yea I agree by the graph with that shift point,but there are a couple reason why I haven't . One I'd have to have the limiter at 77-7800 to have flare room when I shift at 7300, because I don't lift between shifts and I'm not sure how long the stock ring lands on the pistons would take that at that piston speed. I shifted my last car (2011 5.0 built na motor)@ 8100rpm so I love to twist one. Lol .
Two when I bought my monster stage 3 you guys told me it didn't like to shift above 7k rpm without sticking to the floor.

jnv255

So what's the specs on the rims? I know 17x12 and 17x4.5, but I didn't know you could fit a 17in rim on the front of a C6Z. Do you know the back spacing or does anyone have an idea, or contact who would know?
Thanks

Stage IT

weld and bogart both know the correct bs for the 17x4.5 fronts.
I went with whatever bogart advised on the17x10 rears, but they could stand a lil less bs

jnv255

Thanks, ill Check with them or Weld.... Whoever I decide to go with.
Any reason you went with 10in wide over 12in? tire selection?

Sorry for the million questions, but I want to get it right the first time

Stage IT

I went with the 10 because the only bias ply 17 size is a 26 11.50

KLRBEE2

I understand 10-10.5 is enough contact patch and doesn't create as much drag as the 12"

KLRBEE2

You can fit a 315 tire and it's plenty...

Stage IT

Yea the 26 11.50 bias ET streets are 8.5 tread

PRE-Z06

I think a 200rpm window would be fine if you shift fast enough which you seem to, not sure where you came up with the 500 rpm have you datalogged a run? Also who told you that you can't shift above 7k? Steve's GTO has been shifted at 7500 no problem and mine gets shifted at 7200 as well as Fartpipe's.