[Z06] Solid Roller on a Daily Driven Z06?
06-07-2013, 05:00 PM
#1
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Solid Roller on a Daily Driven Z06?
anyone has a similar setup?
I am thinking about going solid roller but worried about the maintenance involved. I would like to be able to rev this thing higher and make over 650whp with 11.5-12.0 compression. would you recommend it?
I will have about 250-300miles a week that involves city and highway driving and some racing too. how often will I need to check and adjust? also any recommendations on lifters or certain parts that works better than other? I am welling to spend the money and make sure I am getting quality parts. I have LSX DR heads and would like to be able to actually benefit from them and their flow and make some good N/A and nitrous power (I have a nitrous outlet spray bar kit with 250shot)
any help would be appreciated!
I had this posted in FI section but I think I might get more response here for people that are just running it N/A
I am thinking about going solid roller but worried about the maintenance involved. I would like to be able to rev this thing higher and make over 650whp with 11.5-12.0 compression. would you recommend it?
I will have about 250-300miles a week that involves city and highway driving and some racing too. how often will I need to check and adjust? also any recommendations on lifters or certain parts that works better than other? I am welling to spend the money and make sure I am getting quality parts. I have LSX DR heads and would like to be able to actually benefit from them and their flow and make some good N/A and nitrous power (I have a nitrous outlet spray bar kit with 250shot)
any help would be appreciated!
I had this posted in FI section but I think I might get more response here for people that are just running it N/A
06-07-2013, 08:23 PM
#5
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I wont be running a fast intake anymore. you cant with the DR heads. I will have an LSX carb style intake with a wilson elbow thats suppose to be better and not as restrictive as the fast intake.
06-07-2013, 09:49 PM
#6
Melting Slicks
06-08-2013, 07:45 AM
#11
Going the solid roller way will definitely be done with the new motor.
Back few years back when was still studying in DC and the 5.0 mustang was the car to have,,, I built a 331 CI with an ultradyne solid roller cam. 258-262 @.050 cut on a 110. I believe it had only 10 or 11 comp with a victor jr intake and a carb. idled very well, drove it in traffic no issues and revved to 7400 rpm no issues. I installed a stud girdle as well. maintenance wasn't an issue at all. didn't have to do it for some time. I don't even remember if I ever needed to.
I believe your target 650 is within reach even with the fast restriction. Get every CFM out of it, Tony of AFR can help you there, and get those heads to flow their best. ofcourse pick the right cam for the job.
if you have extra $$$ have someone play around with the fast runners to shift the rpm a bit.
good luch
Back few years back when was still studying in DC and the 5.0 mustang was the car to have,,, I built a 331 CI with an ultradyne solid roller cam. 258-262 @.050 cut on a 110. I believe it had only 10 or 11 comp with a victor jr intake and a carb. idled very well, drove it in traffic no issues and revved to 7400 rpm no issues. I installed a stud girdle as well. maintenance wasn't an issue at all. didn't have to do it for some time. I don't even remember if I ever needed to.
I believe your target 650 is within reach even with the fast restriction. Get every CFM out of it, Tony of AFR can help you there, and get those heads to flow their best. ofcourse pick the right cam for the job.
if you have extra $$$ have someone play around with the fast runners to shift the rpm a bit.
good luch
06-08-2013, 08:07 AM
#12
Safety Car
The adjustment cycle will vary somewhat depending on your final setup (cam profile, lift, springs) but every 15,000 miles is probably the widest window you'd want to use.
IMHO, solid rollers are almost never used for street vehicles these days for a reason. It sounds to me like your priorities are out of whack:
* You want a 7,000 RPM solid roller max-effort engine (that will likely be very peaky in power around 6500 RPM) with some serious intake modifications that will only further the shift in power up. You want to be able to race and rev this thing all day long, and you want crazy power in the process. No problem. Oh, and you want to drive it 300 miles a week? lol.
It sounds to me like you're going to wind up with a miss-matched combo, too much cam, and you're going to get 12mpg average while arguing with a surging/stalling lope at idle in rush hour traffic and plenty of exhaust wash into the cabin for your troubles. It will be loud, it will smell, and it will be work to drive in traffic - which ultimately will be the majority of your total driving time.
IMHO, if you really want a max-effort car as you've described, you need to think about leasing a Kia or something for under $200 a month to commute in; the lease will pay for itself with the savings in fuel costs while preserving your Pride and Joy as the Weekend Warrior it will ultimately become.
Option 1: Your perfect Z06 with 12-15mpg, 300 miles a week x 50 weeks a year: that's 15,000 miles annually. Don't forget the premium 93 ($3.85-$4.15/gal, we'll say $4.00 even for the math)... that's $4,000 a year in fuel costs - don't forget to check your lash!
Option 2: do as above, but lease something cheap for your heavy work-week commuting. I pulled a few options off the Kia website (purely for argument). $2,000 down, $160 a month with 32+ mpg: $1780 in annualized fuel costs at $3.80/gal. Adding in the lease down payment, it's still $200 cheaper than your initial proposition in the first year alone, without the mileage hit on your "racecar" or the hassles of driving it at 7AM in stop-n-go traffic while spilling your coffee - and you don't even have to pull the valve covers. Continue to do this after the first year, and add $2,200 a year in savings that you'd otherwise burn off at stoplights driving your modified Z to work, assuming fuel prices stay the same.
Just food for thought.
IMHO, solid rollers are almost never used for street vehicles these days for a reason. It sounds to me like your priorities are out of whack:
* You want a 7,000 RPM solid roller max-effort engine (that will likely be very peaky in power around 6500 RPM) with some serious intake modifications that will only further the shift in power up. You want to be able to race and rev this thing all day long, and you want crazy power in the process. No problem. Oh, and you want to drive it 300 miles a week? lol.
It sounds to me like you're going to wind up with a miss-matched combo, too much cam, and you're going to get 12mpg average while arguing with a surging/stalling lope at idle in rush hour traffic and plenty of exhaust wash into the cabin for your troubles. It will be loud, it will smell, and it will be work to drive in traffic - which ultimately will be the majority of your total driving time.
IMHO, if you really want a max-effort car as you've described, you need to think about leasing a Kia or something for under $200 a month to commute in; the lease will pay for itself with the savings in fuel costs while preserving your Pride and Joy as the Weekend Warrior it will ultimately become.
Option 1: Your perfect Z06 with 12-15mpg, 300 miles a week x 50 weeks a year: that's 15,000 miles annually. Don't forget the premium 93 ($3.85-$4.15/gal, we'll say $4.00 even for the math)... that's $4,000 a year in fuel costs - don't forget to check your lash!
Option 2: do as above, but lease something cheap for your heavy work-week commuting. I pulled a few options off the Kia website (purely for argument). $2,000 down, $160 a month with 32+ mpg: $1780 in annualized fuel costs at $3.80/gal. Adding in the lease down payment, it's still $200 cheaper than your initial proposition in the first year alone, without the mileage hit on your "racecar" or the hassles of driving it at 7AM in stop-n-go traffic while spilling your coffee - and you don't even have to pull the valve covers. Continue to do this after the first year, and add $2,200 a year in savings that you'd otherwise burn off at stoplights driving your modified Z to work, assuming fuel prices stay the same.
Just food for thought.
Last edited by Random84; 06-08-2013 at 08:11 AM.
06-08-2013, 08:42 AM
#13
Safety Car
The adjustment cycle will vary somewhat depending on your final setup (cam profile, lift, springs) but every 15,000 miles is probably the widest window you'd want to use.
IMHO, solid rollers are almost never used for street vehicles these days for a reason. It sounds to me like your priorities are out of whack:
* You want a 7,000 RPM solid roller max-effort engine (that will likely be very peaky in power around 6500 RPM) with some serious intake modifications that will only further the shift in power up. You want to be able to race and rev this thing all day long, and you want crazy power in the process. No problem. Oh, and you want to drive it 300 miles a week? lol.
It sounds to me like you're going to wind up with a miss-matched combo, too much cam, and you're going to get 12mpg average while arguing with a surging/stalling lope at idle in rush hour traffic and plenty of exhaust wash into the cabin for your troubles. It will be loud, it will smell, and it will be work to drive in traffic - which ultimately will be the majority of your total driving time.
IMHO, if you really want a max-effort car as you've described, you need to think about leasing a Kia or something for under $200 a month to commute in; the lease will pay for itself with the savings in fuel costs while preserving your Pride and Joy as the Weekend Warrior it will ultimately become.
Option 1: Your perfect Z06 with 12-15mpg, 300 miles a week x 50 weeks a year: that's 15,000 miles annually. Don't forget the premium 93 ($3.85-$4.15/gal, we'll say $4.00 even for the math)... that's $4,000 a year in fuel costs - don't forget to check your lash!
Option 2: do as above, but lease something cheap for your heavy work-week commuting. I pulled a few options off the Kia website (purely for argument). $2,000 down, $160 a month with 32+ mpg: $1780 in annualized fuel costs at $3.80/gal. Adding in the lease down payment, it's still $200 cheaper than your initial proposition in the first year alone, without the mileage hit on your "racecar" or the hassles of driving it at 7AM in stop-n-go traffic while spilling your coffee - and you don't even have to pull the valve covers. Continue to do this after the first year, and add $2,200 a year in savings that you'd otherwise burn off at stoplights driving your modified Z to work, assuming fuel prices stay the same.
Just food for thought.
IMHO, solid rollers are almost never used for street vehicles these days for a reason. It sounds to me like your priorities are out of whack:
* You want a 7,000 RPM solid roller max-effort engine (that will likely be very peaky in power around 6500 RPM) with some serious intake modifications that will only further the shift in power up. You want to be able to race and rev this thing all day long, and you want crazy power in the process. No problem. Oh, and you want to drive it 300 miles a week? lol.
It sounds to me like you're going to wind up with a miss-matched combo, too much cam, and you're going to get 12mpg average while arguing with a surging/stalling lope at idle in rush hour traffic and plenty of exhaust wash into the cabin for your troubles. It will be loud, it will smell, and it will be work to drive in traffic - which ultimately will be the majority of your total driving time.
IMHO, if you really want a max-effort car as you've described, you need to think about leasing a Kia or something for under $200 a month to commute in; the lease will pay for itself with the savings in fuel costs while preserving your Pride and Joy as the Weekend Warrior it will ultimately become.
Option 1: Your perfect Z06 with 12-15mpg, 300 miles a week x 50 weeks a year: that's 15,000 miles annually. Don't forget the premium 93 ($3.85-$4.15/gal, we'll say $4.00 even for the math)... that's $4,000 a year in fuel costs - don't forget to check your lash!
Option 2: do as above, but lease something cheap for your heavy work-week commuting. I pulled a few options off the Kia website (purely for argument). $2,000 down, $160 a month with 32+ mpg: $1780 in annualized fuel costs at $3.80/gal. Adding in the lease down payment, it's still $200 cheaper than your initial proposition in the first year alone, without the mileage hit on your "racecar" or the hassles of driving it at 7AM in stop-n-go traffic while spilling your coffee - and you don't even have to pull the valve covers. Continue to do this after the first year, and add $2,200 a year in savings that you'd otherwise burn off at stoplights driving your modified Z to work, assuming fuel prices stay the same.
Just food for thought.
06-08-2013, 08:45 AM
#14
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I have a mild solid roller setup, valve lash only needs to be adjusted every 12k miles. When the weather is good in NJ I typically put around 150 miles on a week.
06-08-2013, 08:57 AM
#15
Safety Car
What kind of average mileage do you think you're getting? It might be relevant for the OP since he mentioned not having the budget for a proper intake, etc.
06-08-2013, 09:00 AM
#16
Melting Slicks
Solid Roller
Adjusting the lifters is easy, I think the real question is reliability as the solid rollers do not last as long a the hydraulic ones and when they go it is expensive.
06-08-2013, 10:26 AM
#17
06-08-2013, 03:13 PM
#18
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Going the solid roller way will definitely be done with the new motor.
Back few years back when was still studying in DC and the 5.0 mustang was the car to have,,, I built a 331 CI with an ultradyne solid roller cam. 258-262 @.050 cut on a 110. I believe it had only 10 or 11 comp with a victor jr intake and a carb. idled very well, drove it in traffic no issues and revved to 7400 rpm no issues. I installed a stud girdle as well. maintenance wasn't an issue at all. didn't have to do it for some time. I don't even remember if I ever needed to.
I believe your target 650 is within reach even with the fast restriction. Get every CFM out of it, Tony of AFR can help you there, and get those heads to flow their best. ofcourse pick the right cam for the job.
if you have extra $$$ have someone play around with the fast runners to shift the rpm a bit.
good luch
Back few years back when was still studying in DC and the 5.0 mustang was the car to have,,, I built a 331 CI with an ultradyne solid roller cam. 258-262 @.050 cut on a 110. I believe it had only 10 or 11 comp with a victor jr intake and a carb. idled very well, drove it in traffic no issues and revved to 7400 rpm no issues. I installed a stud girdle as well. maintenance wasn't an issue at all. didn't have to do it for some time. I don't even remember if I ever needed to.
I believe your target 650 is within reach even with the fast restriction. Get every CFM out of it, Tony of AFR can help you there, and get those heads to flow their best. ofcourse pick the right cam for the job.
if you have extra $$$ have someone play around with the fast runners to shift the rpm a bit.
good luch
06-08-2013, 03:29 PM
#19
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The adjustment cycle will vary somewhat depending on your final setup (cam profile, lift, springs) but every 15,000 miles is probably the widest window you'd want to use.
IMHO, solid rollers are almost never used for street vehicles these days for a reason. It sounds to me like your priorities are out of whack:
* You want a 7,000 RPM solid roller max-effort engine (that will likely be very peaky in power around 6500 RPM) with some serious intake modifications that will only further the shift in power up. You want to be able to race and rev this thing all day long, and you want crazy power in the process. No problem. Oh, and you want to drive it 300 miles a week? lol.
It sounds to me like you're going to wind up with a miss-matched combo, too much cam, and you're going to get 12mpg average while arguing with a surging/stalling lope at idle in rush hour traffic and plenty of exhaust wash into the cabin for your troubles. It will be loud, it will smell, and it will be work to drive in traffic - which ultimately will be the majority of your total driving time.
IMHO, if you really want a max-effort car as you've described, you need to think about leasing a Kia or something for under $200 a month to commute in; the lease will pay for itself with the savings in fuel costs while preserving your Pride and Joy as the Weekend Warrior it will ultimately become.
Option 1: Your perfect Z06 with 12-15mpg, 300 miles a week x 50 weeks a year: that's 15,000 miles annually. Don't forget the premium 93 ($3.85-$4.15/gal, we'll say $4.00 even for the math)... that's $4,000 a year in fuel costs - don't forget to check your lash!
Option 2: do as above, but lease something cheap for your heavy work-week commuting. I pulled a few options off the Kia website (purely for argument). $2,000 down, $160 a month with 32+ mpg: $1780 in annualized fuel costs at $3.80/gal. Adding in the lease down payment, it's still $200 cheaper than your initial proposition in the first year alone, without the mileage hit on your "racecar" or the hassles of driving it at 7AM in stop-n-go traffic while spilling your coffee - and you don't even have to pull the valve covers. Continue to do this after the first year, and add $2,200 a year in savings that you'd otherwise burn off at stoplights driving your modified Z to work, assuming fuel prices stay the same.
Just food for thought.
IMHO, solid rollers are almost never used for street vehicles these days for a reason. It sounds to me like your priorities are out of whack:
* You want a 7,000 RPM solid roller max-effort engine (that will likely be very peaky in power around 6500 RPM) with some serious intake modifications that will only further the shift in power up. You want to be able to race and rev this thing all day long, and you want crazy power in the process. No problem. Oh, and you want to drive it 300 miles a week? lol.
It sounds to me like you're going to wind up with a miss-matched combo, too much cam, and you're going to get 12mpg average while arguing with a surging/stalling lope at idle in rush hour traffic and plenty of exhaust wash into the cabin for your troubles. It will be loud, it will smell, and it will be work to drive in traffic - which ultimately will be the majority of your total driving time.
IMHO, if you really want a max-effort car as you've described, you need to think about leasing a Kia or something for under $200 a month to commute in; the lease will pay for itself with the savings in fuel costs while preserving your Pride and Joy as the Weekend Warrior it will ultimately become.
Option 1: Your perfect Z06 with 12-15mpg, 300 miles a week x 50 weeks a year: that's 15,000 miles annually. Don't forget the premium 93 ($3.85-$4.15/gal, we'll say $4.00 even for the math)... that's $4,000 a year in fuel costs - don't forget to check your lash!
Option 2: do as above, but lease something cheap for your heavy work-week commuting. I pulled a few options off the Kia website (purely for argument). $2,000 down, $160 a month with 32+ mpg: $1780 in annualized fuel costs at $3.80/gal. Adding in the lease down payment, it's still $200 cheaper than your initial proposition in the first year alone, without the mileage hit on your "racecar" or the hassles of driving it at 7AM in stop-n-go traffic while spilling your coffee - and you don't even have to pull the valve covers. Continue to do this after the first year, and add $2,200 a year in savings that you'd otherwise burn off at stoplights driving your modified Z to work, assuming fuel prices stay the same.
Just food for thought.
I really don't think I am asking too much here. there are people with a hydraulic cam/stock ported heads/ and fast intake that hit over 650whp. so with a decent solid roller cam (not crazy, that way we can keep it somehow streetable, and maybe not have a lot of maintenance involved) it should be somewhat easy to do? this is by far not a max effort setup. if it was then I will bump the compression up and shoot for over 700whp N/A not just 650whp 
if I can go 8000-10000miles before checking then that will be more than enough for me. also I don't really care about MPG or cost of fuel, but thanks for the little time you spent with those numbers. I do have other cars to drive other than the Z06. Also I will only drive the car probably 6-7months a year Max. and the only reason it will be about 250-300miles/week is that the track and car meetings are 75miles away from me. so just driving back and forth is 150miles....
06-08-2013, 03:34 PM
#20
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wow every 12k miles!! I guess I had it wrong in my mind. I was thinking every 3000 miles or something. but really if I can go 8000miles that will be more than enough for me. during your 12k miles period, how many 1/4 miles runs you do?? I am thinking an average of 6/week (some will be nitrous runs too) and then few highway pulls...