AzDave47

I don't trust a 2x4 and use a 4x4 for the cross-member. When I jack up the side and put jacks under the front, I put a 4" cinder block (two 2/12's would also work) under the rear tires, then jack the rear cross-member to get the rear jack stands in place.

LanceFitzgiben

I know most use a 4x4. I guess I just had a 2x4 available so that's what I've used, been using it for a while. Once I go to larger sways I'll have to block the tires up to clear anyway so maybe I'll swap to bigger timber. Thanks buddy

Bedouin

OP, if you're still looking for jacks, I'm about to get the $130 low profile steel jack from Harbor freight. It's gotten some good reviews, is quite long for getting under the C6, & the price is decent as I don't plan to use it very often or transport it. It's a 100lb *****, but shipping looks to be only $20 which is surprising.

Viz

If you have a HF store within a reasonable driving distance, don't forget about their 20% off coupons that are found in all of their print ads. I'm pretty sure you can use it on sale items, and that would save you some decent $$$$

Viz

Bedouin

Thanks Viz, tried that, but all their friggin coupons exclude floor jacks.

Mark2009

You can get this one from HF for $80. With a beam adapter it will reach the preferred front crossmember jack points if the car is up on two 2x boards (2x10, 12, whatever). 80 lbs IIRC. And no, HF will not accept the 20% coupons on floor jacks.

Be sure and check hydraulic fluid before using an HF jack. I have two of these; both were quite low on fluid out of the box. One was missing the fill plug o-ring. Welcome to China . . . . .

JJPonzini

This looks like a good solution, but does the cross beam adapter attach to the jack or does it just rest on the jack?
Thanks.

Mark2009

With that particular jack, it just rests on it with the crossbeam pin as something as a locator (pin has to be filed down; with the jack bolt holding the jack puck in place removed).

The jack has a crossbolt underneath the puck that prevents the crossbeam from being bolted in from underneath.

It seems stable as a lifting device, since everything is centered, but of course jackstands need to be employed before actually getting underneath. I use jackstands underneath pucks on the outer frame rails (leaving the jack and the crossbeam in place for additional stability).

JJPonzini

So the crossbeam pin, once filed down, will drop into the hole in the jack and will keep the crossbeam from sliding around and keep it centered? I have that jack andwas looking at the crossbeam adapter as my next purchase.

SHovV

Is that cross beam available from HF? I have that exact same jack.

JJPonzini

Summit Racing has the crossbeam.

Bedouin

Thinking I'll mcgyver a solid piece of 1"x2" aluminum bar stock, & glue heavy duty 1/4" rubber pads on the ends, & 1 underneath that centers on the jack's lift pad.

ritzz06

ditto!

JoesC5

I use a spreader bar made from a 2X6 with 6" sq., 1/4" thick, pads on the ends. Even if the 2X6 were to break(which it won't) the car will only fall 1/4" before the top of the 2X6 spreader bar contacts the bottom of the crossmember, in the center. When I jack my Z06 up using the 2X6, I can't see any deflection(maybe a 1/32" at most). While my spreader bar is 26" long, the distance between the raised pads is only 14.5". 1600 pounds isn't going to bend a 2X6 1/4" over a 14.5" free span.

On the opposite side of the spreader bar from the pads, i have a 1/2-13 hex nut attached with a screw, that drops into the hole in the floor jack(after I remove the lifting cup from the jack), so the spreader bar will not slip off the spreader bar.

Mark2009

Exactly.