[Z06] Cam Suggestion Please...
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Cam Suggestion Please...
I'm looking for a cam to maybe replace my current one that has yet to be spec'd... I'm waiting for my pistons, exhaust valves, guides and extra stuff to show up... I've also add a fully ported Fast 102 intake to the build now... To help me reach my goal of 600rwhp on 91 pump gas... I'm looking for a cam with .650 lift cause my heads flow 384cfm at that lift... I also want a nice loppy idle but with none to little surge at 800rpm plus.. Also I gotta pass a emission test... I have highflow cats on my car as well... I know this is asking a lot but please can you help me...?
#2
Team Owner
I'm looking for a cam to maybe replace my current one that has yet to be spec'd... I'm waiting for my pistons, exhaust valves, guides and extra stuff to show up... I've also add a fully ported Fast 102 intake to the build now... To help me reach my goal of 600rwhp on 91 pump gas... I'm looking for a cam with .650 lift cause my heads flow 384cfm at that lift... I also want a nice loppy idle but with none to little surge at 800rpm plus.. Also I gotta pass a emission test... I have highflow cats on my car as well... I know this is asking a lot but please can you help me...?
246/660 242/694
Dont forget the Head Job
I love it
#3
Drifting
Thread Starter
My heads are fully ported already and have dual valve springs and Livernois pushrods... Would the black widow can pass a e-test? Do you have any surging?
#4
Safety Car
That depends on your emission testing and how it is done in where you live. If your interested in that cam send a pm to MyHardtop....
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
Idle test only... My cam now has a nice loppy idle but the lift isnt enough... It's most likely gonna be a .610-.630 at most And I wanna get more outta my heads... Just trying to squeeze more power outta my build without killing too much of the drivability...
#6
If you don't want surge, keep .050 overlap under 10 deg.
Also, you will not know flow numbers till the valves and seats are cut. Typically, bowl work is done after port work and seats so they can be hand blended. You can seriously change the entire flow dynamics at the valve itself.
After the heads are complete, I'd have them re-tested, then send the results to the cam supplier of your choosing. If they are worth a crap, they'll hook you up. Just be honest with yourself and your goals, and what you can't live with.
Also, you will not know flow numbers till the valves and seats are cut. Typically, bowl work is done after port work and seats so they can be hand blended. You can seriously change the entire flow dynamics at the valve itself.
After the heads are complete, I'd have them re-tested, then send the results to the cam supplier of your choosing. If they are worth a crap, they'll hook you up. Just be honest with yourself and your goals, and what you can't live with.
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
If you don't want surge, keep .050 overlap under 10 deg.
Also, you will not know flow numbers till the valves and seats are cut. Typically, bowl work is done after port work and seats so they can be hand blended. You can seriously change the entire flow dynamics at the valve itself.
After the heads are complete, I'd have them re-tested, then send the results to the cam supplier of your choosing. If they are worth a crap, they'll hook you up. Just be honest with yourself and your goals, and what you can't live with.
Also, you will not know flow numbers till the valves and seats are cut. Typically, bowl work is done after port work and seats so they can be hand blended. You can seriously change the entire flow dynamics at the valve itself.
After the heads are complete, I'd have them re-tested, then send the results to the cam supplier of your choosing. If they are worth a crap, they'll hook you up. Just be honest with yourself and your goals, and what you can't live with.
#8
#9
Team Owner
No surging over 800rpm and 600rwhp don't add up. Give up one or the other.
#10
Drifting
Thread Starter
#12
Good info thanks...! Well with my mods : Vararam CAI with ram air, Ported stock TB, fully ported fast 102, fully ported heads, decent cam, forged diamond pistons that bump the CR 11.5-1, 1 7/8 longtubes, 3 inch xpipe with highflow cats, 3 inch b&b fusion catback and a tune... Do you think 600rwhp is possible on pump gas? I have all the other mods necessary to run a bigger cam ie dual valve springs, Livernois pushrods, bronze guide and SS exhaust valves...
But no, 600 rwhp and no drivability issue is not a realistic goal unless you run boost. Good 93 octane fuel is a prerequisite as well.
#13
Safety Car
I really doubt a cam big enough for 600whp is going to pass an idle sniffer test to be honest. I'd try and call local shops and see what the biggest cam they have done and still been able to pass.
#14
Drifting
At last the specs on the Black Widow cam have been revealed. Carlos keeps his specs under wraps unless you buy one from him. That is a HUGH, and will not pass emissions testing.
#15
Drifting
Thread Starter
You already have the springs, but do not know what cam you are running?? Uh....you're running backwards bud. The lobe dictates the spring requirements. In many cases, a good beehive will outperform a dual spring. I would run a beehive over a dual any day if it had the correct rate and lift capabilities.
But no, 600 rwhp and no drivability issue is not a realistic goal unless you run boost. Good 93 octane fuel is a prerequisite as well.
But no, 600 rwhp and no drivability issue is not a realistic goal unless you run boost. Good 93 octane fuel is a prerequisite as well.
#17
Drifting
You may want to look at a Katech Torquer 116 cam. Don't know if it would pass a sniff test put with 0 overlap and a 116 SA, it may pass a sniff and give you gains in HP and Torque but you would still be well shy of 600 rwhp, but you may be close to that number at crank hp.
Another one to check out would be Ragin Racin Stalker with 5 overlap and a 115 SA.
Mark
Another one to check out would be Ragin Racin Stalker with 5 overlap and a 115 SA.
Mark
#19
Safety Car
Even if you keep your current cam I would get new springs to be safe. Typically you want to replace them every 15-20k miles anyways specially since its all torn apart
#20
Former Vendor
Those who own it know the real specs
Thanks,
Carlos...El Secreto