[Z06] Best way to fix engine block surface? Coolant leaking on new engine.
#22
i would go through the trouble and have it repaired properly. if that cylinder hydros, the whole motor will be junk. seriously take the time to do the right thing, you know you want it to be perfect. maybe contact seller/shipper and give em hell?
#23
Melting Slicks
did you retorque heads after you ran it?
If not better do it next time just in case.
#24
_"SCOTT"_
Although it may be timely and possibly costly to pull the engine, you'll regret not doing it if your setup explodes due to "the fix"
Fix it right and be done with it...
#25
Pro
Thread Starter
#26
Pro
Thread Starter
Used Alvin's Products High Temp LabMetal thats good up to 1000 degrees to fill surface imperfection. Hand sanded it, allowed to cure for a week, then used copper gasket spray with a new GM MLS gasket. I am letting it cure for another week now that it is all re-assembled. I plan to fire it up either this Friday or Saturday to see if it stays sealed. Then after its gets hot and completely cools back down, I am going to re-torque the head bolts. Wish me luck...
#27
Pro
Thread Starter
UPDATE...
Did a retorque after heat up and cool down. Have since put over 400 miles on it with zero issues. Flushed cooling system twice. Changed oil twice. It is now at the dyno for some tuning. So thus far, it is sealed up good.
Did a retorque after heat up and cool down. Have since put over 400 miles on it with zero issues. Flushed cooling system twice. Changed oil twice. It is now at the dyno for some tuning. So thus far, it is sealed up good.
#28
Melting Slicks
retorque
when you retorqued did you find a few bolts/nuts where loose or maybe a better word lost some of the torque and had to be tightened up.
#30
Le Mans Master
#31
Burning Brakes
#32
Pro
Thread Starter
UPDATE: Still going strong at 11.7psi, 700rwhp and have put over 12,000 miles on it. Also, wanted to throw up one of my PM replies to members that have asked me about this over the years. *Yes I carefully and lightly hand sanded the damaged area, used a plastic putty spreader to build up the area as (trying to keep it flat as possible), and used a heat gun to cure. Then after several days of letting it dry, lightly hand sanded it to get it as flat and smooth as possible. I then used spray copper gasket on both the head surface, deck surface, and the new MLS gasket. I am now running nearly 10 psi with no problems. (knock on wood). The exact name of what I used was Alvin's Lab Metal. And I believe the spray copper gasket maker was Permatex brand from Advance Auto. Oh and I also heat cured by starting the engine, getting warm, then allowing to cool for 24 hours, then another start letting it get hot, then cool completely. That was everything got to harden up without any actual pressure exerted on it. Hope this helps.
The following users liked this post:
Landru (03-14-2017)