Cozmo

Took my 08 Z06 with about 21K miles on it to Brian at Reckart Performance Tuning in Cedar Park TX today for a Halltech CAI install and tune.

The car was totally stock. Brian ran a baseline dyno and got 466 RWHP and 440 TQ on a Dynapack at about 55 degrees F.





Then came the Halltech Super Bee MF107R CAI. Notice the forward MAF placement.



Then the Halltech Beehive. It insulates the intake and the MAF from the heat in the engine compartment. It also provides a nice clean look.



Another dyno run, 491 RWHP, 453 TQ!.

Then some tuning done by Brian and a final dyno run.



Final results, 507 RWHP and 468 TQ!
I picked up 38 RWHP and and 26 foot pounds of torque. Took the car for a drive and logged some parameters. Brought it back and Brian made a few adjustments. The car drives like stock . . . . until I step on it.

Lawdogg

Very nice gains! What were the beginning and ending a/f ratios if you know?

BearZ06

That is large!!!

Mopar Jimmy

Congrats HUGE numbers, both stock and after the CAI and tune, and most importantly HUGE GAINS from the CAI and tune.

The 507 at the wheels is the biggest number I have ever seen from your mods are these SAE corrected?

IF so, I would get a dyno pull at another shop some day just to see how realistic those numbers are, b/c the norm is that it takes a full bolt on effort with headers to break 500rwhp.

Enjoy the new power, I am ready to get a tune myself my car is running WAY to rich, I can smell fuel everytime I goose it.

Cozmo

I have no way to verify the accuracy of the 507 RWHP short of running on another dyno and don't have the inclination to do that right now. I am very happy with the gains though.

Thanks

LS9Drew

dynapaks usually read high, but 38whp/26wtq is just that a great gain regardless!

Cozmo

I sent Brian a PM and asked him to chime in.

Thanks.

Oh heck yeah!

JG853

I agree - The dyno is a tool. The numbers vary per dyno, at the end of the dy the only thing that matters is if the car runs good and what the times are at a track. Otherwise, the numbers are just that, numbers.

0Brian@RPT

The starting AFR was 0.80 Lambda (11.77 AFR) and the final was 0.87 (12.44 AFR) lambda. During the tuning process, the stoich valve was changed from 14.68 to 14.30 to reflect the E10 gasoline.

0Brian@RPT

What is interesting about the Dynapack from my experience is:

1) I dynoed 2 Corvette Grand Sport A6's and both dynoed within 1 hp of each other. One was 370 rwhp and the other was 371 rwhp. A6's loose ~ 65 rwhp and that is spot on.
2) I dynoed a Corvette C5 Z06 that was H/C. It dyoned 494 rwhp by the shop that installed the parts. I dynoed it on my dyno and put down 495 rwhp. Within 1 horsepower is really good.
3) I dynoed my Corvette LS3 on a Dynojet 224x and put down 392 rwhp. Once I purchased the dyno, I dynoed my Corvette and it put down 394 rwhp.
4) Dyoned a 2009 G8GT and it put down 294 rwhp and is right where it should be.
5) Dynoed a 2010 Camaro SS LS3 and it put down 368 rwhp is stock trim. Manuals loose ~ 55 rwhp.

Those are a few examples of cars that I have experience with and tire slippage is a non issue.

Mopar Jimmy

Ok, so this was not on pump gas?

How much octane is E10 gas (100)?

Still very impressive gains no doubt.

Cozmo

93 octane straight from the pump at a local Chevron station.

Cozmo

Local gas may contain up to 10 percent ethanol.

Halltech

I have a dozen or so that have shown +33 to +34 RWHP with the Super Bee and tuning. Brian must have the tuning part of it dialed in.
The bigger the demand at the motor, the more power you will see from our Super Bee MF103 or 107R.

This dyno has actually eclipsed even the Super Bee CF112 numbers we have seen. Carbon fiber has no real advantage over plastic other than a lb or so in weight loss.

Congratulations.

Mopar Jimmy

Again, FANTASTIC gains between your stock pulls and then the CAI with tune.

Halltech

HUGE! Wow to that dyno.

This is the Super Bee MF107R not the Killer Bee II. The Super Bee shows bigger numbers on the dyno than the Killer Bee II with proper tuning, as you can see.

The Beehive on the drivers side needs to be pushed inward to clear the radiator pin holding it out.

Wow.

Mopar Jimmy

Jim Halltech,

I can't keep straight all of your wonderful products. I am runnng one your Killer Bees and Beehives on my Z the type that you were selling about 2 years ago. Don't know the model or name of your CAI, its just the one that was your hot seller appproximately 1 3/4 to 2 years ago, its now the KillerBee II (I know that).
Along with my B&B Bullets I can tell my car with its factory tune is running way rich b/c everytime I stomp on it even at 60% throttle I can smell fuel.

I Have a feeling I would benefit from around 30rwhp from a dyno tune from a top LSx tuner.

I assume you agree that a tune would be very beneficial for the performance of my car, maybe similar to the OP?

Halltech

We no longer make the Killer Bee II for the Z06 or LS3. The Super Bee is the intake of choice.

If you smell fuel, something is really wrong. I have driven 25 or so Z06s and have only smelled fuel in one with too much cam overlap and no cats. That smell will nauseate you in no time.

The intake only brings cold air to the intake manifold, no fuel. If you have a tune that has 14.7:1 stoich, changing it to 14.1:1 for E10 will actually add more fuel, but be correct. If you have no rich codes, you may still be running rich, but under the threshold for a code.

You would benefit from a tune for sure. Check with Brian of Reckart Performance. He may have remote tuning capability, and he obviously knows what he is doing.

Mopar Jimmy

Thanks Jim, I have some top LS7 tuners in the Chicago area who usually get 30rwhp with cai a tune, and one likes to run a lower thermostat, which I am inclined to do. Can I get your thoughts on running a cooler t stat given my minimal mods and with a tune of course. Thank you Jim!!

Halltech

The thermostat adds zero hp unless your water temps exceed 212F. At 212F (100C) -2.5 degrees timing is pulled and that just gets worse at the water temps increase.

On the dyno, 225F is common by the end of the pull. You can see by the chart below that just controlling ECT recovery time on the dyno can make around 8 to 10 RWHP difference by itself. This is one of the many GM saftey protocols that pull power in the dyno senario, that rarely happens on the street. How often do you see 225F on the street.

Unless the ECT (electronic coolant temp) is controlled and below 212F you cannot be all that you paid for in terms of HP.

Example. One pull is done at 175F start and ends at 210F at full pull in 4th gear. No penalty for ECT, since your water temp is below 212F.

Now you have ten guys waiting for the dyno and you want to wait for 30 to 40 minutes for the water temp to reconcile back to 175F start? Fat chance, so you do pull 2. Start temp 210F and end at 230F. Good bye clean pull, and loss of power.

Additionally, if the cat overtemp circuits kick in then goodbye air fuel ratio and timing. If the knock count hits the HO threashold, goodbye High Octane table, and relegation to Low Octane, which is a loss of 25 to 30 HP easily. Look at the amount of equivalency fuel added by GM when the COTP kicks in. 20.5% more fuel:


Thermostat? Yes. By the way, tuners can avoid the above with tuning the ECT points higher and turn off cat overtemp switching.

Always do dyno tuning at a tuner that can start clean pulls each time, without customer cue pressure.