saleentim

Nope not calling you clueless at all.. Just lots of people on here will throw out there opinions at you and convince you that your ls7 will blow

'06 Quicksilver Z06

Excellent approach.

Just be leery of those who are convinced that there is no problem, in the face of strong evidence that there might be, and who try and convince others that there is none, and you'll be ahead in the game.

Take proactive steps to protect yourself and your car.

Great. Good for you.

garage5

WhatAcop?

Aren't you the same guy who blew up a e46 M3 and tried justifying that BMW was having issues with the there rod bearing. Then it was decided that your car was out of the rod bearing recall model year?

And aren't you also the guy who blew up 3 transmission in a Lightning and posted all about how Ford should recall it?

I think you are. YOU ARE MY HERO!!!!!

KLRBEE2

Any updates with the exhaust/vids?

whatcop?

I'm actually out of the state till the end of February so until then no videos and I still haven't gotten my ZR1 back from the shop because they are replacing the blower.

KLRBEE2

Aftermarket or warranty work? I'll keep watching for the updates; can't wait to see/hear her!!

whatcop?

Warranty. There is a service bulletin on it and mine fell under it when it started making a knocking sound. They are also doing a recall on it while its in and taking care of the panel on the A pillar that keeps popping loose.

Rock36

That is the key, everyone has to take their own individual situation into consideration.

I had WCCH do a new set of heads for my 07 Z06, because my warranty expired in Aug 11, and I live in Germany.

Ordering/shipping/installing a new LS7 from the States on my dime outside of warranty would be cost prohibitive. A new set of built heads by WCCH was not. And since I live in Germany I can't simply trade my 07 in for a newer model, and I cannot get an extended warranty here, I went with the heads.

So spending some money on some built heads for the peace of mind was worth it, even if the chance of dropping a valve was remote. It wasn't because I thought engine destruction was imminent, it was just a preventative measure and the best insurance I could give myself in my situation.

If I was still in the states, I might have gone with another solution, but I'm not so I didn't.

KLRBEE2

Cool...hope it all gets taken care of in time by the time you get back.

KRAYZ308

I can't bite my tongue any longer. I lost my first motor (all stock) at 40,000 mi. No abuse, daily driver except for 1 track day. Just sucked a valve. I was told the motor was shipped back to Wixom. GM replaced it under warranty and the tranny too after the tech did not refill the trans after the engine change.
The way I see it is you get world class performance and handling at a K-mart price. Anything after that is a false expectation as far as I'm concerned. Corners are being cut some where. There is no magician in Bowling Green. Loose axle nuts that should have a cotter key, rotors that are veined in only one direction, delaminating roofs, Active handling problems solved with wire ties, goofy seat memory, seat tracks that are crap, seats that are crap, front hub bearings that are unreliable, cast pistons that should be forged, oil starvation problems on long left turns, valves that DO break, rockers that are crap sometimes, valve springs that are suspect, belt tensioners that flex all over the place and head lights that vibrate every time you run oner the Bot's Dots.
So, yea the car is fun and works well, but if you are going to track it or run it hard, you better get some forged pistons and some heads that are set up with better valves, rockers, springs and keepers. A larger oil sump and a better windage/oil scavenging pan. Put some SKF bearings in the front hubs too. Proper seats, belts that work and two piece rotors should also be on your list.
Will I buy another Chevy? Depends on my expectations.

AirBusPilot

What year model?

NytmereZ

Good news is you didn't crack the block, from what you said I gather you floated A valve . You said it was wet out, in this case you rev limiter didn't save you.
I had a much worse experience in an 01 z I used to have, my block was cracked , you could actually see the hole in the dark, as antifreeze pissed out, the whole car was cartek equipped , so it was a disaster, was fixed under warranty , but that was back in 2002, things were different.
Good thing for you, is that if you were going to have your heads done, my guess is that there isn't as much damage to the head as you think.

As bad as my motor was( they couldn't even get the cam out) my head wasn't damaged bad at all, if you already planned on porting them, they should be able to fix any damage that the head has easily.

if I were you I would at least try and get it covered, cover your tracks as much as you can, get under the car clean all the rubber etc.

if you have a tune your probably screwed

if you do have to pay for the motor out of pocket spend the extra change and get that bottom end done solid, you will be better off in the long run.

NytmereZ

most looks cut and paste
I never had a single issue with my 06 Z, I had a couple of problems with other ls engines, that don't apply to the c6 section, but made me learn my lesson.
I was aware about problems with the ls7 as seen on this forum,And in person so I was careful .
In Never shifted at 7k always left a 200 rpm safety window, tracked the car only 5 times, and most important , left it stock, something I hate doing
My brother still has his 07, and follows these rules, I also put a set of shaft mounted Jessel rockers in it, as his valve train noise always made me nervous.

Z's are great cars, I just personally won't beat on anything without bullet proof solid bottom ends anymore.

whatcop?

Car was only at 3500-4500 rpms when it let go on the 5th lap when I was still warming up since it was a new track to me.

Also the car was fixed awhile ago under warranty and was traded in on a ZR1

KRAYZ308

It's an 07- ZO6. Built 11/06 Delivered 12/06. The replacement motor was built 6/09. I have 25K on the replacement motor.