[Z06] Just bought a Z06 and problems already :(
10-19-2010, 04:39 PM
#21
Racer
I'm about to buy a brand new 2009. Do you guys have any suggestions how I can deal with this cluth problem on the front end. I mean can i get the dealer to fix it now since they have the incentive to sell me the car.
10-21-2010, 02:21 PM
#22
Le Mans Master
I will beg to differ... GM as a TSB instructing to replace the pressure plate for a "new" unit to cure the clutch/hydraulic problem when the master has been replaced already.
It is actually quite common practice, replacing the master cylinders. It's the first step to you getting a "Well, we've done everything we can." while the car still exhibits the same problem.
My 08 was like this and now my 09 does EXACTLY the same thing.
Personally, after all the back and forth with multiple service departments and meetings with regional techs, etc..... the only real solution is a new clutch with a TICK master cylinder kit. If they're was an aftermarket slave and throw-out bearing, I would do those too but so far all we have to work with is GM parts. The stock hydraulic system is weak and a clutch that probably was designed (final production unit) for the wash-n-park guys then the those that actually drive these cars. Look how much TM there is in the factory tune.
Great car, no doubt about that but it needs a bit of love.
It is actually quite common practice, replacing the master cylinders. It's the first step to you getting a "Well, we've done everything we can." while the car still exhibits the same problem.
My 08 was like this and now my 09 does EXACTLY the same thing.
Personally, after all the back and forth with multiple service departments and meetings with regional techs, etc..... the only real solution is a new clutch with a TICK master cylinder kit. If they're was an aftermarket slave and throw-out bearing, I would do those too but so far all we have to work with is GM parts. The stock hydraulic system is weak and a clutch that probably was designed (final production unit) for the wash-n-park guys then the those that actually drive these cars. Look how much TM there is in the factory tune.
Great car, no doubt about that but it needs a bit of love.1. One is the clutch sticking due to excessive heat from hard driving. The pedal usually comes back after cooling. There is also some slippage with this issue.
2. Is the pedal goes away and sticks to the floor and does not come back. The car is stuck in gear with no slipping. The clutch is stuck disengaged (IN GEAR). This is due to Master cylinder failure, not a hot clutch.
10-22-2010, 02:53 AM
#24
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Got my car back they replaced the master and slave cylinder! HOWEVER, after checking my clutch fluid after 50 miles put on the car, its black???? Shouldnt they have bled it? Should I take it back to Chevrolet???
10-22-2010, 10:58 PM
#25
Le Mans Master
The clutch was not slipping. The master cylinder failed there by rendering the clutch inoperable. Mine got stuck in gear.
Depending how new the clutch/car is.... that is not abnormal. When my car had less than 10k miles on it the clutch fluid would get dark that quick. Not anymore though.... I use synthetic fluid and the car has 28k.
10-22-2010, 11:14 PM
#26
_"SCOTT"_
Buy it and drive it. Warranty and a "good" GM service shop will take care of anything that may come up (if anything at all).
10-23-2010, 01:43 AM
#27
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My clutch was replaced with less than 50 kms. Would not go into gear. Tsb on defective pressure plates. They replaced the clutch and pressure plate and didn`t touch the slave or master. Now has 55,000 kms with no clutch issues except the pedal stuck to the floor after doing a burn out with a hot clutch! The pedal returned after cooling. I change the clutch fluid aprox every 5,000 kms.
10-23-2010, 02:11 AM
#28
Safety Car
I think I'd wanna see the old slave. 50 miles and dirty clutch fluid? Sounds like they didn't replace anything at all. If your slave went out you'd have fluid under the car and a empty resivoir.
Last edited by Luweegy; 10-23-2010 at 02:17 AM.
10-23-2010, 05:28 AM
#29
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I had the same problem on my 08' @ about 9,100 miles. Dealer replaced both master and slave cylinder and problem fixed. They checked my clutch during the process and claimed it looked brand new... : )
10-23-2010, 09:27 AM
#30
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Hello AmitZ06.
Suggest you read post #1 of Clutch Pedal Issues—How-To Prevent and Cure
It explains the root causes of your pedal issues
(1) slipping the clutch excessively during aggressive driving
(2) not getting and keeping the clutch fluid clean.
Dealers love to "deal with" clutch pedal issues by changing parts. It's a major charge to GM warranty and the labor hours billed significantly exceed the time needed to do the "fix."
In fact the overwhelming majority of clutch pedal issues can be avoided entirely by fluid maintenance and avoidance of slipping the clutch during burnout, launch, and (poorly synchronized) shifts.
If we assume the dealer actually swapped your master cylinder and actuator (slave) and yet the fluid is black after 50 miles, then suggest you start immediately cleaning up your clutch fluid and maintain it in the future.
Given what we've learned about the LS7 clutch personality at stock power-levels, simple owner maintenance and driving techniques will put an end pedal issues.
Ranger
Suggest you read post #1 of Clutch Pedal Issues—How-To Prevent and Cure
It explains the root causes of your pedal issues
(1) slipping the clutch excessively during aggressive driving
(2) not getting and keeping the clutch fluid clean.
Dealers love to "deal with" clutch pedal issues by changing parts. It's a major charge to GM warranty and the labor hours billed significantly exceed the time needed to do the "fix."
In fact the overwhelming majority of clutch pedal issues can be avoided entirely by fluid maintenance and avoidance of slipping the clutch during burnout, launch, and (poorly synchronized) shifts.
If we assume the dealer actually swapped your master cylinder and actuator (slave) and yet the fluid is black after 50 miles, then suggest you start immediately cleaning up your clutch fluid and maintain it in the future.
Given what we've learned about the LS7 clutch personality at stock power-levels, simple owner maintenance and driving techniques will put an end pedal issues.
Ranger
Last edited by Ranger; 10-23-2010 at 11:04 AM.
10-23-2010, 10:31 AM
#31
Safety Car
yup, 95% of those issues are End User related.
Ranger should re-title his sticky to "how to drive your Z06 for dummies", or "Z06 ID10T Errors, and how to fix them"
no worries, we all do those errors, and Ranger's method is the fix...takes a while to get used NOT to want to slip that clutch, but, knowleges is power and saves your wallet!
Ranger should re-title his sticky to "how to drive your Z06 for dummies"
, or "Z06 ID10T Errors, and how to fix them" no worries, we all do those errors, and Ranger's method is the fix...takes a while to get used NOT to want to slip that clutch, but, knowleges is power and saves your wallet!
10-23-2010, 10:45 AM
#32
Le Mans Master
The black is just the color/dye from the seals. Normal. My WS6 was the same way and did fine for 80K miles, then the TO bearing began rattling and the master leaked down, causing it to creep into intersections, etc. Replaced, and did fine until 150K miles or so when I sold it. GM recommends replacing the Slave/Master every 50K miles per T56rebuilds in Houston. Makes sense to me.
Last edited by BSSN; 10-23-2010 at 10:48 AM.
10-23-2010, 10:59 AM
#33
_"SCOTT"_
I flushed mine anyway just in case but probably not really necessary.
10-23-2010, 11:34 AM
#34
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Once the lube used in original assembly and lamp black on the seal surface is shed within the hydraulics, the fluid no long turns black when the car is not driven aggressively, or not driven at all.
For the past couple years, while I'm away off-the-grid, my car is left undriven for months at a time. The clutch fluid does not change color during that time. It's clear when I depart and still clear when I return.
In August 2007 GM acknowledged via published document that the clutch fluid in all Corvette should be changed at 24-month interval using DOT4. That change was put into the maintenance schedule in the Corvette owners manual for 2008-current.
Owners who drive aggressively ought to be changing the clutch fluid much more frequently than that.
There's one more point to add to this thread.
An owner sustains risk anytime the dealer drops the drive train to get at the clutch and actuator (slave). Murphy's Law and the Law of Unintended Consequence. You might be getting "free" parts, but you also get risk of an improper fix or re-assembly. For example, anytime the rear cradle is removed and reinstalled, the rear alignment will change and require adjustment. Dealers don't normally do that realignment. Something to consider in weighing clutch fluid maintenance and driver technique changes vs dealer parts swaps as a remedy for pedal issues.
Ranger
For the past couple years, while I'm away off-the-grid, my car is left undriven for months at a time. The clutch fluid does not change color during that time. It's clear when I depart and still clear when I return.
In August 2007 GM acknowledged via published document that the clutch fluid in all Corvette should be changed at 24-month interval using DOT4. That change was put into the maintenance schedule in the Corvette owners manual for 2008-current.
Owners who drive aggressively ought to be changing the clutch fluid much more frequently than that.
There's one more point to add to this thread.
An owner sustains risk anytime the dealer drops the drive train to get at the clutch and actuator (slave). Murphy's Law and the Law of Unintended Consequence. You might be getting "free" parts, but you also get risk of an improper fix or re-assembly. For example, anytime the rear cradle is removed and reinstalled, the rear alignment will change and require adjustment. Dealers don't normally do that realignment. Something to consider in weighing clutch fluid maintenance and driver technique changes vs dealer parts swaps as a remedy for pedal issues.
Ranger
11-27-2010, 12:00 AM
#36
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St. Jude Donor '11
Originally Posted by Ranger;
Once the lube used in original assembly and lamp black on the seal surface is shed within the hydraulics, the fluid no long turns black when the car is not driven aggressively, or not driven at all.
Last edited by MYREDZO6; 11-27-2010 at 12:03 AM.
11-27-2010, 12:16 AM
#37
Le Mans Master
Ranger knows what he is talking about no doubt 
11-27-2010, 12:51 AM
#38
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17,'22-'23
If it's black I'd change it. Very easy and inexpensive to do. It took maybe 5-6 times before mine started staying clean for months. I only have to change it about once a year now.
Last edited by BearZ06; 11-27-2010 at 12:53 AM.
11-27-2010, 02:41 AM
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Hello,
Im new to the forum world. Last week I just purchased my first Corvette, Black 2006 Corvette Z06 w/5000 miles. 5 Days later the clutch pedal got stuck to the floor. I was driving the car aggressive prior to this happening. I had to have the car towed to the nearest Chevrolet dealership
, they did examine it and said it needed a master and slave cylinder, so that has been replaced. I was just wondering if this is a common problem, or was i just not driving the car right.
Thanks alot, all responses appreciated.
Amit
Im new to the forum world. Last week I just purchased my first Corvette, Black 2006 Corvette Z06 w/5000 miles. 5 Days later the clutch pedal got stuck to the floor. I was driving the car aggressive prior to this happening. I had to have the car towed to the nearest Chevrolet dealership
, they did examine it and said it needed a master and slave cylinder, so that has been replaced. I was just wondering if this is a common problem, or was i just not driving the car right. Thanks alot, all responses appreciated.
Amit
