[Z06] clutch issues. Discussion needed.
09-01-2008, 11:13 AM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
clutch issues. Discussion needed.
My motor is not stock and neither is my clutch. The stock clutch held up to 6500 miles before the peddle beginning to hang up. At 8500 miles the bearing was whistling, and the clutch felt scratchy. After 10k the slave/throwout bearing went and fluid dropped out under the car and I was towed to a shop for a clutch and throwut bearing replacing. The clutch was a single disc exedy, with a lighter flywheel all balanced.
A few hundred miles later(200) the peddle hang up started again, I cahnged the clutch fluid many times(Ranger method). It went.
I had issues with the first shop, so I had another shop do it again, found that shop one didn't torque the clutch properly.
Less than 200 miles later I have the same issue. Shop 2 takes out the clutch, it looks OK. Changes a worn out Tq tube, a bad out put shaft bearing, and new slave.. OK seems ok.
NOT! Now It happened again.
What can be causing throwout bearings to go bad so often, and why the peddle hanging up?
Anyone having similiar experiences with there clutch?
I am considering a whole new clutch set up at this point. Perhaps the Centerforce. Katech uses this one and they probably have more R&D than anyone..
A few hundred miles later(200) the peddle hang up started again, I cahnged the clutch fluid many times(Ranger method). It went.
I had issues with the first shop, so I had another shop do it again, found that shop one didn't torque the clutch properly.
Less than 200 miles later I have the same issue. Shop 2 takes out the clutch, it looks OK. Changes a worn out Tq tube, a bad out put shaft bearing, and new slave.. OK seems ok.
NOT! Now It happened again.
What can be causing throwout bearings to go bad so often, and why the peddle hanging up?
Anyone having similiar experiences with there clutch?
I am considering a whole new clutch set up at this point. Perhaps the Centerforce. Katech uses this one and they probably have more R&D than anyone..
09-01-2008, 11:27 AM
#2
Instructor
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That sucks!!
Mine had 4200 and I had to have a new one put in. Just after my I did my first Ranger change. One week later it froze. They think the its the dot 3 I used. Looks like my falt. But it helped knowing the lead tech so they got it covered.
Mine had 4200 and I had to have a new one put in. Just after my I did my first Ranger change. One week later it froze. They think the its the dot 3 I used. Looks like my falt. But it helped knowing the lead tech so they got it covered.
Last edited by mwvette69; 09-01-2008 at 05:53 PM.
09-01-2008, 03:01 PM
#4
Melting Slicks
Stack Height
Another issue may be is that the forks are pushing up and the bearing is riding hard all the time. I think the crank to like bottoming out of the pilot bearing is like 3.30 or so inches. Most installs the clutch height is like 3.0 inches or so.
09-01-2008, 09:57 PM
#6
Safety Car
Just had that happen to mine Saturday.After I put the Ram in.I swear I could hear the TOB always engaged.Started chiping and dumped the fluid very soon there after.Back to Patrick and the drawing board.
09-02-2008, 11:23 AM
#7
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2005
Location: Lewisville TX
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
When they are putting in a clutch this time, get a remote bleeder...that will help some on the fluid changes...small part but it helps.
What kind of clutches are you using?
If the torque tube is starting to deflect and you are beating up pilot bearings it is going to start wearing on other items as well, so have them check that out, make sure the input shaft is not bent as well.
I would also agree with some of the above statements in that you should measure the clutch because it has had a history of problems, and you are not using a stock engine (aftermarket crank) you should just verify some of the measurements to make sure things are where they need to be.
As for the throw out bearing assembly, some clutches require a non-stock bearing so please make sure they know what they are doing.
Let me know how I can help.
What kind of clutches are you using?
If the torque tube is starting to deflect and you are beating up pilot bearings it is going to start wearing on other items as well, so have them check that out, make sure the input shaft is not bent as well.
I would also agree with some of the above statements in that you should measure the clutch because it has had a history of problems, and you are not using a stock engine (aftermarket crank) you should just verify some of the measurements to make sure things are where they need to be.
As for the throw out bearing assembly, some clutches require a non-stock bearing so please make sure they know what they are doing.
Let me know how I can help.
09-02-2008, 01:13 PM
#8
Pro
Thread Starter
When they are putting in a clutch this time, get a remote bleeder...that will help some on the fluid changes...small part but it helps.
What kind of clutches are you using?
If the torque tube is starting to deflect and you are beating up pilot bearings it is going to start wearing on other items as well, so have them check that out, make sure the input shaft is not bent as well.
I would also agree with some of the above statements in that you should measure the clutch because it has had a history of problems, and you are not using a stock engine (aftermarket crank) you should just verify some of the measurements to make sure things are where they need to be.
As for the throw out bearing assembly, some clutches require a non-stock bearing so please make sure they know what they are doing.
Let me know how I can help.
What kind of clutches are you using?
If the torque tube is starting to deflect and you are beating up pilot bearings it is going to start wearing on other items as well, so have them check that out, make sure the input shaft is not bent as well.
I would also agree with some of the above statements in that you should measure the clutch because it has had a history of problems, and you are not using a stock engine (aftermarket crank) you should just verify some of the measurements to make sure things are where they need to be.
As for the throw out bearing assembly, some clutches require a non-stock bearing so please make sure they know what they are doing.
Let me know how I can help.
The motor has a callies crank, and lays down 550-575 rwhp. Will the Centerforce clutch that Katech uses work with this kind of power?
I have the Carbon Fiber drive shaft from LG with all the associated pieces, etc.. New out put shaft.
Is it possible the clutch can bolt in and work but be the wrong clutch?
09-02-2008, 01:23 PM
#9
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I had an Exedy single disc put in my Z when I had it up at LPE for Cam/Heads work. I've got 1,500 miles on the new clutch with no issues and rather spirited driving. I change clutch fluid fairly frequently using Ranger method. No stuck pedal....no problems. See signature for mods.
Best of luck
Best of luck
09-02-2008, 01:44 PM
#11
Former Vendor
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Could it be that Exedy doesn't make a single disc clutch for the 7.0L?
The motor has a callies crank, and lays down 550-575 rwhp. Will the Centerforce clutch that Katech uses work with this kind of power?
I have the Carbon Fiber drive shaft from LG with all the associated pieces, etc.. New out put shaft.
Is it possible the clutch can bolt in and work but be the wrong clutch?
The motor has a callies crank, and lays down 550-575 rwhp. Will the Centerforce clutch that Katech uses work with this kind of power?
I have the Carbon Fiber drive shaft from LG with all the associated pieces, etc.. New out put shaft.
Is it possible the clutch can bolt in and work but be the wrong clutch?
The carbon shaft isn't going to move but if you had a problem with the stock one they need to make sure the input shaft was not damaged prior.
It is very possible that a clutch can bolt into a car and not work properly because of throw out bearing travel either not being enough or being to far.
09-02-2008, 02:00 PM
#12
Pro
Thread Starter
I had an Exedy single disc put in my Z when I had it up at LPE for Cam/Heads work. I've got 1,500 miles on the new clutch with no issues and rather spirited driving. I change clutch fluid fairly frequently using Ranger method. No stuck pedal....no problems. See signature for mods.
Best of luck
Best of luck
09-02-2008, 02:54 PM
#13
Pro
Thread Starter
Straight from an email to Exedy....
Hi William ..
Our twin clutch with chromoly F-W is part #GT04SD . Do not use our single disc
Sports clutch on the ZO6…Thanks Bernie
Bernie Solomons
Exedy Globalparts Corporation
Hi William ..
Our twin clutch with chromoly F-W is part #GT04SD . Do not use our single disc
Sports clutch on the ZO6…Thanks Bernie
Bernie Solomons
Exedy Globalparts Corporation
09-02-2008, 02:57 PM
#14
Pro
Time for a sequential dual disc automatic!
I had the problem on my 02 and after changing the fluid several times and lowering the rev limiter to 6500, it went away! The high RPM I had it set at (7000) seemed to really put a lot of stress on the pressure plate causing it to stick.
I had the problem on my 02 and after changing the fluid several times and lowering the rev limiter to 6500, it went away! The high RPM I had it set at (7000) seemed to really put a lot of stress on the pressure plate causing it to stick.
09-02-2008, 06:34 PM
#15
Team Owner
