[Z06] Z06 LS7 Corvette high capacity oil tank for road racing applications
02-07-2008, 01:41 AM
#1
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Z06 LS7 Corvette high capacity oil tank for road racing applications
Under prolonged high cornering loads such as those found on a banked race track with a vehicle with racing slicks, some customers have reported low oil pressure on the 2006-2008 Z06 Corvettes. The Lingenfelter Performance Engineering modified oil tank design was developed to help eliminate this problem. Designed to fit in the stock dry sump oil tank location with no modifications to the vehicle, the Lingenfelter modified oil tank increases system capacity by roughly 3 quarts, bringing total capacity up from 8 quarts to 11 quarts and increasing the capacity of the tank alone from 6 quarts to 9 quarts (a 50% increase).
The added oil volume will also help reduce high oil temperature spikes under certain high engine load conditions by increasing the amount of fluid in circulation and the amount of time it takes to heat up that fluid. The added oil volume should also improve engine durability and reduce oil property degradation in road racing conditions.The factory oil dipstick will still function correctly and the same indicator mark is used to indicate the new “full” oil level.
Included with the modified oil tank are new seals for the oil lines as these should be replaced every time the lines are disconnected.
This oil tank is not recommended for vehicles that do not see road coarse use with full slicks as the added oil capacity should not be needed on these vehicles since they should not be able to achieve high enough cornering loads for long enough periods of time to experience the oil pressure drop off problem.
The Lingenfelter high capacity oil tanks are available on an exchange basis, with a $975 core charge that is refunded when you return your stock oil tank. You should only send us the bottom half of your oil tank, being sure to remove the black plastic oil line screen found at the bottom of the tank, the brackets bolted to the tank and the oil temperature sensor attached to the tank. The oil tank should be emptied of any oil prior to shipping to LPE.
You can avoid the core charge by sending us your oil tank in advance and then we will ship you one of the already modified oil tanks as soon as we receive and inspect your tank.
Fits:
2006-2008 Z06 Corvette
Image of modified tank:
Link to eBay store description.
The added oil volume will also help reduce high oil temperature spikes under certain high engine load conditions by increasing the amount of fluid in circulation and the amount of time it takes to heat up that fluid. The added oil volume should also improve engine durability and reduce oil property degradation in road racing conditions.The factory oil dipstick will still function correctly and the same indicator mark is used to indicate the new “full” oil level.
Included with the modified oil tank are new seals for the oil lines as these should be replaced every time the lines are disconnected.
This oil tank is not recommended for vehicles that do not see road coarse use with full slicks as the added oil capacity should not be needed on these vehicles since they should not be able to achieve high enough cornering loads for long enough periods of time to experience the oil pressure drop off problem.
The Lingenfelter high capacity oil tanks are available on an exchange basis, with a $975 core charge that is refunded when you return your stock oil tank. You should only send us the bottom half of your oil tank, being sure to remove the black plastic oil line screen found at the bottom of the tank, the brackets bolted to the tank and the oil temperature sensor attached to the tank. The oil tank should be emptied of any oil prior to shipping to LPE.
You can avoid the core charge by sending us your oil tank in advance and then we will ship you one of the already modified oil tanks as soon as we receive and inspect your tank.
Fits:
2006-2008 Z06 Corvette
Image of modified tank:
Link to eBay store description.
02-07-2008, 05:20 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Feb 2005
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Nice piece of welding. 
I'm just curious where does all the oil go (8 quarts) during the high g cornering with the stock setup? Does it just slush aroung in the motor? It seems it cannot go anywhere in the reservoir, it is just a tall cylinder. The sump is pretty shallow. So where does it go?
I assume the extra 3 quarts "replaces" the misplaced oil so the pick up point does not go dry.
The new ZR1 apparently has the increased capacity in their design. Maybe the MY09 Z06 will adopt it?
I'm just curious where does all the oil go (8 quarts) during the high g cornering with the stock setup? Does it just slush aroung in the motor? It seems it cannot go anywhere in the reservoir, it is just a tall cylinder. The sump is pretty shallow. So where does it go?
I assume the extra 3 quarts "replaces" the misplaced oil so the pick up point does not go dry.
The new ZR1 apparently has the increased capacity in their design. Maybe the MY09 Z06 will adopt it?
02-07-2008, 07:41 PM
#3
02-07-2008, 08:09 PM
#4
Former Vendor
Nice piece of welding.
I'm just curious where does all the oil go (8 quarts) during the high g cornering with the stock setup? Does it just slush aroung in the motor? It seems it cannot go anywhere in the reservoir, it is just a tall cylinder. The sump is pretty shallow. So where does it go?
I assume the extra 3 quarts "replaces" the misplaced oil so the pick up point does not go dry.
The new ZR1 apparently has the increased capacity in their design. Maybe the MY09 Z06 will adopt it?
I'm just curious where does all the oil go (8 quarts) during the high g cornering with the stock setup? Does it just slush aroung in the motor? It seems it cannot go anywhere in the reservoir, it is just a tall cylinder. The sump is pretty shallow. So where does it go?
I assume the extra 3 quarts "replaces" the misplaced oil so the pick up point does not go dry.
The new ZR1 apparently has the increased capacity in their design. Maybe the MY09 Z06 will adopt it?
Randy
02-07-2008, 09:13 PM
#5
Drifting
I have this on my C6 Z track car. It works. I tested this for Jason back to back at Texas World Speedway. The ambient air temp was +/- 3degrees during my testing from the stock tank. I noticed no "low oil pressure" indicators at idle after a 30 min session. I also saw around 15-20 degree reduction in hot oil temps after my session and 7 psi better oil pressure at idle and about 10 psi better at high rpm. I highly recommend this upgrade for all you guys that track your cars.
SW
SW
02-08-2008, 10:54 AM
#6
Race Director
What is the increase from the ZR1 that MY 09 Z06's get?
PS....Nice tape job on the Z06 SW. I thought it was a paint issue at first, but knowing you, it couldn't have been.
PS....Nice tape job on the Z06 SW. I thought it was a paint issue at first, but knowing you, it couldn't have been.
02-08-2008, 11:02 AM
#7
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Too much oil vs no oil
Randy,
I agree that too much oil can be a bad thing if it is in the wrong places but not enough oil pressure can also be a very bad thing.
I agree that too much oil can be a bad thing if it is in the wrong places but not enough oil pressure can also be a very bad thing.
02-08-2008, 11:47 AM
#8
Former Vendor
02-08-2008, 12:42 PM
#9
Safety Car
A larger tank is not going to add additional oil to the engine unless the standard tank is getting pumped dry. The problem would seem to me less the size of the tank, and more the location of the oil pickup. Looking at the way this tank is shaped, it probably would keep more oil over the pickup.
I wouldn't think that having more oil would lower oil temperatures, rather than just increase the amount of time it takes the oil to heat up, since after the oil is heated, the cooler can only remove a certain amount of heat per unit time.
Actually, from my experience in my 08z, the oil is sufficiently cooled on track as is. I would prefer that the oil would actually heat up faster. I am surprised GM did not put a thermostat in the oil cooler.
Also, I don't see how a tank like this would increase idle oil pressure. That would seem to be more temperature related.
Tim
I wouldn't think that having more oil would lower oil temperatures, rather than just increase the amount of time it takes the oil to heat up, since after the oil is heated, the cooler can only remove a certain amount of heat per unit time.
Actually, from my experience in my 08z, the oil is sufficiently cooled on track as is. I would prefer that the oil would actually heat up faster. I am surprised GM did not put a thermostat in the oil cooler.
Also, I don't see how a tank like this would increase idle oil pressure. That would seem to be more temperature related.
Tim
02-08-2008, 04:05 PM
#10
Melting Slicks
Wouldn't changing the pan and/or pushrod orfice size be an effective way to solve the problem of too little oil at the pickup (from cornering G's) and too much oil in the top end (from high RPM)? How does adding tank capacity help? 
02-10-2008, 08:23 PM
#11
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Oil temperature thermostat
We have also seen issues with getting the oil up to temperature in chassis dyno testing and street use so I could see this being an issue on short track sessions, initial laps, test sessions or Solo II/Auto-X applications.
We are working on an oil temperature thermostat for the Z06. Anyone interested in something like this, please contact me because we will be looking for customers to test this out for us once we have installed a couple ourselves.
If you want to pre-heat the oil, we could add an element style oil pan heater to the add on tank (with a welded in fitting in the tank) or we could put a silicone pad type heater on the tank. I will look into adding those as options.
For the engine to loose oil pressure oil must not be at the inlet to the oil pump so since some vehicles are loosing oil pressure at the track, oil must not be at the inlet to the oil pump. Increase the amount of oil in the tank feeding the pump inlet and you have more oil before you run the pump dry.
The increased capacity is designed to delay the problem from happening. Unless you are doing laps on a velodrome or something like that, the high g turns don't last that long so you only need a couple of seconds of additional capacity. That is why our solution works.
Increased oil capacity can reduce oil temperatures because the amount of heat put into the oil system is not constant. Much more heat is put into the oil at high rpm and full throttle (WOT). Under deceleration, partial throttle and lower throttle conditions the amount of heat going into the oil goes down. The increase volume of oil takes longer to heat up so these spikes in heat applied to the oil take longer to heat the oil up so the higher capacity gives you a bit of a capacitor effect, reducing the spikes in oil temperature.
The factory oil temperature sensor does not update at a very fast rate so you don't always see the ups and downs in oil temperature during a track lap. You would need a faster response sensor and a system that looks at/updates the sensor readings more frequently to see some of these changes. Also, you would want the sensor in the engine out line instead of in the tank since that is showing you the average oil temperature.
We are working on an oil temperature thermostat for the Z06. Anyone interested in something like this, please contact me because we will be looking for customers to test this out for us once we have installed a couple ourselves.
If you want to pre-heat the oil, we could add an element style oil pan heater to the add on tank (with a welded in fitting in the tank) or we could put a silicone pad type heater on the tank. I will look into adding those as options.
For the engine to loose oil pressure oil must not be at the inlet to the oil pump so since some vehicles are loosing oil pressure at the track, oil must not be at the inlet to the oil pump. Increase the amount of oil in the tank feeding the pump inlet and you have more oil before you run the pump dry.
The increased capacity is designed to delay the problem from happening. Unless you are doing laps on a velodrome or something like that, the high g turns don't last that long so you only need a couple of seconds of additional capacity. That is why our solution works.
Increased oil capacity can reduce oil temperatures because the amount of heat put into the oil system is not constant. Much more heat is put into the oil at high rpm and full throttle (WOT). Under deceleration, partial throttle and lower throttle conditions the amount of heat going into the oil goes down. The increase volume of oil takes longer to heat up so these spikes in heat applied to the oil take longer to heat the oil up so the higher capacity gives you a bit of a capacitor effect, reducing the spikes in oil temperature.
The factory oil temperature sensor does not update at a very fast rate so you don't always see the ups and downs in oil temperature during a track lap. You would need a faster response sensor and a system that looks at/updates the sensor readings more frequently to see some of these changes. Also, you would want the sensor in the engine out line instead of in the tank since that is showing you the average oil temperature.
A larger tank is not going to add additional oil to the engine unless the standard tank is getting pumped dry. The problem would seem to me less the size of the tank, and more the location of the oil pickup. Looking at the way this tank is shaped, it probably would keep more oil over the pickup.
I wouldn't think that having more oil would lower oil temperatures, rather than just increase the amount of time it takes the oil to heat up, since after the oil is heated, the cooler can only remove a certain amount of heat per unit time.
Actually, from my experience in my 08z, the oil is sufficiently cooled on track as is. I would prefer that the oil would actually heat up faster. I am surprised GM did not put a thermostat in the oil cooler.
Also, I don't see how a tank like this would increase idle oil pressure. That would seem to be more temperature related.
Tim
I wouldn't think that having more oil would lower oil temperatures, rather than just increase the amount of time it takes the oil to heat up, since after the oil is heated, the cooler can only remove a certain amount of heat per unit time.
Actually, from my experience in my 08z, the oil is sufficiently cooled on track as is. I would prefer that the oil would actually heat up faster. I am surprised GM did not put a thermostat in the oil cooler.
Also, I don't see how a tank like this would increase idle oil pressure. That would seem to be more temperature related.
Tim
02-11-2008, 03:28 AM
#12
Drifting
I too run a high oil temperature. Pardon my ignorance, but I have not heard of an oil thermostat. I assume it is not for the purpose of heating the oil up quickly, like a water thermostat. Therefore, I am very intrigued about this product. Can you elaborate?
02-11-2008, 10:01 AM
#14
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Oil thermostat
It is for heating the oil up quickly.
Liquid to air type oil coolers tend to cool to a temperature below that desired and cause prolonged warm up times at low ambient temperature conditions.
Many vehicles that have oil to air type oil coolers use them so that oil isn't cooled more than needed and is kept in a more constant range under varied driving conditions. Vehicles like the 1990-1995 ZR1 Corvette (LT5 engine) and the Dodge Vipers use them.
Liquid to air type oil coolers tend to cool to a temperature below that desired and cause prolonged warm up times at low ambient temperature conditions.
Many vehicles that have oil to air type oil coolers use them so that oil isn't cooled more than needed and is kept in a more constant range under varied driving conditions. Vehicles like the 1990-1995 ZR1 Corvette (LT5 engine) and the Dodge Vipers use them.
02-11-2008, 10:06 AM
#15
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
ZR1 system
I think if you look at the pictures in the magazines and web sites (including the ones I posted on this forum from the Detroit Auto Show) and look at the press releases, it looks like they are switching to a liquid to liquid type heat exchanger (oil to engine coolant) mounted on the side of the oil pan.
02-11-2008, 11:59 AM
#16
Safety Car
I have this on my C6 Z track car. It works. I tested this for Jason back to back at Texas World Speedway. The ambient air temp was +/- 3degrees during my testing from the stock tank. I noticed no "low oil pressure" indicators at idle after a 30 min session. I also saw around 15-20 degree reduction in hot oil temps after my session and 7 psi better oil pressure at idle and about 10 psi better at high rpm. I highly recommend this upgrade for all you guys that track your cars.
SW
SW
Here is a place to get liquid latex masking for the car...
http://platz.com/philslatexpaint.html
John Tieman found this stuff out in the Big Bend ORR...a lot of the Porsche guys were using it, and now a LOT of people are using it.
Just roll it on with a small paint roller. When you are done for the weekend, just wash it off with a pressure washer (or a strong stream of water from the hose). A lot easier than racer tape.
How's Paul and the gang doing?
Sorry for hijacking the tread...back to oil systems and coolant tanks...
02-22-2008, 12:55 PM
#17
Drifting
It is for heating the oil up quickly.
Liquid to air type oil coolers tend to cool to a temperature below that desired and cause prolonged warm up times at low ambient temperature conditions.
Many vehicles that have oil to air type oil coolers use them so that oil isn't cooled more than needed and is kept in a more constant range under varied driving conditions. Vehicles like the 1990-1995 ZR1 Corvette (LT5 engine) and the Dodge Vipers use them.
Liquid to air type oil coolers tend to cool to a temperature below that desired and cause prolonged warm up times at low ambient temperature conditions.
Many vehicles that have oil to air type oil coolers use them so that oil isn't cooled more than needed and is kept in a more constant range under varied driving conditions. Vehicles like the 1990-1995 ZR1 Corvette (LT5 engine) and the Dodge Vipers use them.
02-22-2008, 08:51 PM
#18
Melting Slicks
why don't you use a oil line spliter that has a built in thermostat. I had one installed on a previous car and above 180 degrees it would crack open and flow the oil to the air cooler. Below that it would just bypass it back into the block. best of both worlds??
I used this on my Lt1 equiped camaro track car and it was a sandwich adaptor that fit inbetween teh oil filter and the block. There must be a stand alone that would do the same for dry sump z owners.
I used this on my Lt1 equiped camaro track car and it was a sandwich adaptor that fit inbetween teh oil filter and the block. There must be a stand alone that would do the same for dry sump z owners.
03-22-2008, 12:08 PM
#19
Melting Slicks
Here is the external cooler I was speaking of, best used with an air-to-oil cooler based on the 215 thermo temp setting.
for cars that will be raced most of the time, this set-up seems sweet AND you can retain factory air with one of the systems.
http://www.aviaid.com/pdfs/ls1and7_broch.pdf
I'll be going with stock oil pump, A.R.E. pan , Peterson fluid systems tank/breather and a Ron Davis Radiator w/ integrated cooler. If this doesn;t keep temps down I'll install the canton thermo unit and an external oil-to-air cooler.
Does anyone make a 12volt oil tank thermocoupler to heat the oil in the tank to get oil temps up quicker??
for cars that will be raced most of the time, this set-up seems sweet AND you can retain factory air with one of the systems.
http://www.aviaid.com/pdfs/ls1and7_broch.pdf
I'll be going with stock oil pump, A.R.E. pan , Peterson fluid systems tank/breather and a Ron Davis Radiator w/ integrated cooler. If this doesn;t keep temps down I'll install the canton thermo unit and an external oil-to-air cooler.
Does anyone make a 12volt oil tank thermocoupler to heat the oil in the tank to get oil temps up quicker??
03-22-2008, 01:54 PM
#20
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Pad heater
I assume you mean a pad type or immersion probe type oil pan heater (a thermocouple is a temperature measuring device and I am not sure what a "thermocoupler" is).
A pad type heater would be easier to install unless you already had a bung in your dry sump tank.
Most road race, drag race and Bonneville applications I have dealt with just use a 110 volt AC pad heater connected to a generator or normal outlet when in the pits etc. and then you unplug it when you go to run the car.
Most of the heaters are 110 or 220 AC. They are used a lot by drag racers and Bonneville salt flats type racers since you don't usually get engine/vehicle warm up time. They are used even more by diesel and industrial applications in northern climates (Ice Road type uses).
Some DC heaters exist (link) and (link2). Keep in mind that a 125 watt 12 volt DC heater pad is going to pull roughly 11 amps and that a 250 watt heater pad is going to draw roughly 21 amps so that will drain a battery in a hurry if you don't have it on a charger or have the engine running.
The DC ones are much lower power than the AC ones (400-500 watt is commonly sold by Moroso and others) so the DC ones would take even longer to warm up your oil.
Also, make sure you remember to turn it off or have it on a thermostatically controlled switched. We forgot to turn a pad heater off once on the oil tank on a car at Bonneville and we turned 10 to 12 quarts of Mobile One synthetic oil into thick VERY HOT sludge (we were busy working on other things on the car until we noticed a strong smell). Lucky we didn't catch anything on fire (I think it was a 500 watt or 1000 watt AC pad type heater).
With immersion type heaters you have to be very careful not to get too high a power rating (wattage) heater for a given size heating element. If the power output per surface area is too high the localized temperatures will get too hot and you will "crack" the oil and destroy its properties even though the average oil temperature doesn't appear to be too high. With thick fluids like oil this is even more of a problem and if the oil isn't circulating it is even more of an issue. We have a 1500 watt thermostatically controlled immersion heater we use in one of our dyno cells but the oil has to be circulating for us to be able to use it or we risk destroying the oil.
On the oil thermostats, we usually use the Mocal 180 degree or the Mocal 200 degree thermostats. They are available in -6 to -12 (and probably bigger) line sizes.
Sorry this ended up being such a long-winded response.
A pad type heater would be easier to install unless you already had a bung in your dry sump tank.
Most road race, drag race and Bonneville applications I have dealt with just use a 110 volt AC pad heater connected to a generator or normal outlet when in the pits etc. and then you unplug it when you go to run the car.
Most of the heaters are 110 or 220 AC. They are used a lot by drag racers and Bonneville salt flats type racers since you don't usually get engine/vehicle warm up time. They are used even more by diesel and industrial applications in northern climates (Ice Road type uses).
Some DC heaters exist (link) and (link2). Keep in mind that a 125 watt 12 volt DC heater pad is going to pull roughly 11 amps and that a 250 watt heater pad is going to draw roughly 21 amps so that will drain a battery in a hurry if you don't have it on a charger or have the engine running.
The DC ones are much lower power than the AC ones (400-500 watt is commonly sold by Moroso and others) so the DC ones would take even longer to warm up your oil.
Also, make sure you remember to turn it off or have it on a thermostatically controlled switched. We forgot to turn a pad heater off once on the oil tank on a car at Bonneville and we turned 10 to 12 quarts of Mobile One synthetic oil into thick VERY HOT sludge (we were busy working on other things on the car until we noticed a strong smell). Lucky we didn't catch anything on fire (I think it was a 500 watt or 1000 watt AC pad type heater).
With immersion type heaters you have to be very careful not to get too high a power rating (wattage) heater for a given size heating element. If the power output per surface area is too high the localized temperatures will get too hot and you will "crack" the oil and destroy its properties even though the average oil temperature doesn't appear to be too high. With thick fluids like oil this is even more of a problem and if the oil isn't circulating it is even more of an issue. We have a 1500 watt thermostatically controlled immersion heater we use in one of our dyno cells but the oil has to be circulating for us to be able to use it or we risk destroying the oil.
On the oil thermostats, we usually use the Mocal 180 degree or the Mocal 200 degree thermostats. They are available in -6 to -12 (and probably bigger) line sizes.
Sorry this ended up being such a long-winded response.
Here is the external cooler I was speaking of, best used with an air-to-oil cooler based on the 215 thermo temp setting.
for cars that will be raced most of the time, this set-up seems sweet AND you can retain factory air with one of the systems.
http://www.aviaid.com/pdfs/ls1and7_broch.pdf
I'll be going with stock oil pump, A.R.E. pan , Peterson fluid systems tank/breather and a Ron Davis Radiator w/ integrated cooler. If this doesn;t keep temps down I'll install the canton thermo unit and an external oil-to-air cooler.
Does anyone make a 12volt oil tank thermocoupler to heat the oil in the tank to get oil temps up quicker??
for cars that will be raced most of the time, this set-up seems sweet AND you can retain factory air with one of the systems.
http://www.aviaid.com/pdfs/ls1and7_broch.pdf
I'll be going with stock oil pump, A.R.E. pan , Peterson fluid systems tank/breather and a Ron Davis Radiator w/ integrated cooler. If this doesn;t keep temps down I'll install the canton thermo unit and an external oil-to-air cooler.
Does anyone make a 12volt oil tank thermocoupler to heat the oil in the tank to get oil temps up quicker??