[Z06] Cooling hose mod - feedback welcome!
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Cooling hose mod - feedback welcome!
Presumptions: Have large cap DeWitts radiator, 160* T'stat. Conditions are track only road racing.
Experimental idea: Get more water to the big radiator. Normally water has to pass through T'stat (on it's way OUT to the radiator - do I have that flow idea right ?????) if I do, I was considering taking the heater hose (direction = to heater core), and putting a "T" in it, then running it to a "T" to the radiator (assuming my flow pattern is correct). That way, additional water would shoot around the T'stat and give me more cooling. Switches would be installed to switch flow back to normal for regular driving. Idea is an experiment so all comments are welcome!
Experimental idea: Get more water to the big radiator. Normally water has to pass through T'stat (on it's way OUT to the radiator - do I have that flow idea right ?????) if I do, I was considering taking the heater hose (direction = to heater core), and putting a "T" in it, then running it to a "T" to the radiator (assuming my flow pattern is correct). That way, additional water would shoot around the T'stat and give me more cooling. Switches would be installed to switch flow back to normal for regular driving. Idea is an experiment so all comments are welcome!
#2
I believe the thermostat blocks the flow of the coolant to the motor, not block the return path. It blocks the coolant from the radiator, and once the coolant inside the motor reaches the specified degree it opens up letting in colder coolant. I might be wrong though.
I think you would be better off with a better radiator, or water injection if you want better cooling.
Also, have you tried better fans? Or fan control from the computer? This works well. A 160 Thermostat is usually hard to actually keep anywhere near 160 since the collant just basically continually flows and never really gets that cool. You're almost better off using a 180 stat, and having the fans set on high more. A neat product made by a local company by me was a high speed fan switch that you could use at the track even when the car was off. It worked really well to get the engine cool after each run at the drag strip. I might be visiting them soon
I think you would be better off with a better radiator, or water injection if you want better cooling.
Also, have you tried better fans? Or fan control from the computer? This works well. A 160 Thermostat is usually hard to actually keep anywhere near 160 since the collant just basically continually flows and never really gets that cool. You're almost better off using a 180 stat, and having the fans set on high more. A neat product made by a local company by me was a high speed fan switch that you could use at the track even when the car was off. It worked really well to get the engine cool after each run at the drag strip. I might be visiting them soon
Last edited by blitzu; 09-10-2007 at 11:19 PM. Reason: more ideas
#3
Safety Car
Member Since: May 2006
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12
Interesting thoughts. In the old days we just removed the thermostat altogether, not sure if that would cause any problems in modern cars. There was better flow and never an issue unless you lived in the northern tier states and it was winter, then warm up was longer.
#4
Le Mans Master
I don't think your plan will work. Race cars have a restrictor plate where the thermostat is. For a small block chevy it is aroung 5/8" to 3/4". The purpose is to slow the flow of coolant so it works properly. If the coolant goes through the engine too fast it will not pick up enough heat and if it goes through the radiator too fast it will not cool enough. My recomendation would be a Ron Davis type radiator, oil and water cooler all in one. One of the big jobs of the oil is to also cool. A good race shop can give you an idea as to what restrictor plate you should be using. I would try that first because it is cheap. Moroso makes a package of three or five for you to try.
Good luck.
Good luck.
#5
Drifting
the coolant flows from the engine through the thermostat to the radiator through the upper hose, through the radiator and back to the engine through the lower hose...
#6
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Ranger
#7
Le Mans Master
Road race cars don't need a fan. The radiator will cool better without the fan. The fan actually restricts air at speed. Try it.
#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
I looked up the coolant flow in the manual, and traced it out on the engine. The coolant flows from the very front of the water pump to the radiator. The return to the engine is blocked by the closed thermostat. But also a small amount goes out of the top of the radiator through the overflow tank and down to the thermostat via the heater core return hose. This is just a convenient place to return water when the thermostat is closed. At the same time, there is unrestricted water going to the heater core and this also flows into the same tube coming from the overflow tank.
So for my solution, if I want more cooling, and don't want to turn on the heater, I just take a Tee from both heater core hoses and put a little radiator core behind the fog lamp space with a fan, that should lower it about 20*. Turning on the heater drops it 20*.
So for my solution, if I want more cooling, and don't want to turn on the heater, I just take a Tee from both heater core hoses and put a little radiator core behind the fog lamp space with a fan, that should lower it about 20*. Turning on the heater drops it 20*.