ww50th

I just installed the Hawk ceramic brake pads in my 07 Zo6. This was quite an experience. First off, I have been a professional mechanic and in the maintenance business for 40 years. I have in excess if 20,000.00 in tools, mostly Snap-On. I just twisted off a Snap-On 6 MM allen head socket trying to remove the brake pins in the caliper. That is total B.S. This has to be a serious design flaw that GM is obviously aware of but again doing nothing about. That is about a 1/2 inch diameter aluminum fastner with a 6 MM allen internal wrenching head that is installed with 30 ft. lbs. of torque. Something is always going to fail in that equasion. I had to remove the calipers to replace the pads. This forum lists the torque for those bolts at 125 ft. lbs. They broke loose at way less than 100 ft. lbs. I want to verify that the correct torque for the caliper to bracket bolts with the 21MM head is 125 ft. lbs. installed with Lock-Tite. Thanks for any info on this.

allanlaw

That they are, my friend, and mine were not tightened to spec from the factory either - a brief tap on my air impact wrench and they flew off, much less needed than to remove my 100 ft/lbs lug nuts. BTW I don't think the brake pins are aluminum.

Short-Throw

125 ft. lbs is correct.

When the brakes get hot the pins can get fused. This isn't for the meek, but here's what you can do to get it out.. I've done this a few times.

You need to take the 6 MM socket and air hammer it into the pin. If after this you can't get it out with an air ratchet, use a 3/8-1/2 converter and use the impact wrench.

If you'd like further details, PM me and we can talk further.

Yes, this is a hack job, but it works. When you replace the pins use anti-seize. I have since upgraded my brakes, but I never had a problem after doing this.


Mike

ww50th

My car only has 326 very easy miles on it so I don't think heat build up is the issue. They must be way over torqued at manufacture. By design, most brake and suspension parts are assembled with Lock-tite or an equivalent product so the use of antiseize seams counter productive. I will not track this car so repetive dissassembly will not be an issue with me. You're correct allanlaw, they are steel inserted into an alloy housing.

outnumbered

I replaced my pads at about 5,000 miles. Had many hot heat cycles.

Only a couple were very tight. They were on the driver side. I reused the pins and applied anti seize.

Z Fast

When I first tried to remove those pins, the 6mm bit started to strip the pin. So I got a 6mm for my 3/8" ratchet. I made sure the 6mm was all the way in, and then hit the ratchet with my hand hard and fast. That broke them free and made it easy to get them out. Definitely use anti-sieze before putting them back.

allanlaw

Same thoughts here. These pins do not come with lock-tite, and don't seem to have to withstand much push-pull stress, just crosswise when the pads want to move with the rotor. I haven't used anti-seize yet, and haven't had a pin get really stuck yet (through many cycles at the track), but it may only be a matter of time.

Z Fast

Just ot clarify, do not use anti-seize on the caliper bolts. Those NEED loctite. But the pins will be okay with anit-seize.

Minkster

I tried this and it rounded the hole out. How do I get it out now? Also, replacements are only in the pad kit. Suggestions?

John Shiels

$20,000.00 in Snap on tools would fit in a shoebox Yep many have had this problem with those calipers. Where did you get the 30 LB. figure for them? I have no clue right or wrong.

Short-Throw

Send me a PM of how to contact you and I will explain. Don't worry, there's still hope!

Mike

allanlaw

Page 5-75, 2006 Corvette Service Manual (volume 1)

John Shiels

Probably like the hubs on my 4WD drive Dodge for the lack of pennies on anti-seize you have to buy new hubs. They are 700.00 for the pair to replace the ball joints at 40,000 miles and two years old. Ninety-five percent of the people can't get them apart. That is no exaggeration including dealers.

Are the caliper pins aluminum in aluminum?

Minkster

PM in your box. I went ahead and just pulled off the whole caliper to change the pads. One pin in each caliper wanted to spin and not break free.

Are the pins torqued at 30 ft-lbs? I thought I read somewhere the setting was 23 ft-lbs.

Dr.Ron

I just took outthe 2 bolts holding the calipers to the rotors, removed the stock pads, inserted the Hawk ceramics, reinstalled the 2 bolts again & called it a day.

Was this correct???
Car stops fine!

Ron

Minkster

I hope your calipers aren't bolted to the rotors, would be kind of hard to stop, and make a real racket .

Seriously, I did the same (my calipers are bolted to the spindle), works fine. Probably easier than pulling all those pins .

rwpatte

I also removed the Two caliper bolts, replaced pads, cleaned bolts locktite and torque to 125lbs. Straight forward.

KRAYZ308

I have had good luck with a little known old school tool. A hand impact. When you hit it, it does three things. It forces the bit, (6MM or whatever) into the bolt so it does not strip and the blow also relieves the stretch on the bolt as it applies torque in either direction that you select. It works. You can buy one for less than $20.00. Just make sure that you have it set up to turn the right way after every hit or you risk breaking the bolt off.

allanlaw

They are not aluminum.

Minkster

Tried that also, but still spun in the hole. The allen hole needs to be at least 8mm so that the torquing force being applied to the pin is spread over a larger surface (contact) area. I believe that would solve this problem. For now, I'll just remove and replace the calipers when I need to change pads as I did with my C5. Thanks for all of your suggestions and help.