treynor

The following is a step-by-step chronicle of my soundproofing work on my '06 Z06. The stock Z is fairly quiet, except for gear rattle at low RPMs and loud tire noise over concrete. Add a set of headers, however, and with the windows up the interior is dominated with header tick and engine noise at idle, and bass drone from the (stock) mufflers at cruising RPM and acceleration. This makes the car significantly less pleasant to drive for >15 minutes, and calls for a solution. My first attempt at having both power AND quiet is described below, and the procedure as well as the results will be provided.

For soundproofing, I will be using a combination of materials from B-Quiet. I'll have a complete list of what was needed once the project is complete in 1-2 weeks. My initial order was:

2x B-Quiet Ultimate (50 sq. ft.)
1x B-Quiet Roller
1x B-Quiet Hliner (13.5 sq. ft.)
3x B-Quiet Lcomp (8 sq. ft.)

I expect I'll have some leftovers when complete.

In addition to the soundproofing materials, you will need the following:

Socket driver
7mm socket
10mm deep socket
16mm or 5/8" socket
Notch-head screwdriver
Torx T30 socket

treynor

Step 1: strip the trunk



Remove fasteners at points (1) and (2), and then pull on the trunk liner until the fasteners at point (3) pop out. Pull the liner out slightly, and disconnect the wire connectors to the lights next to (1) and (2). Remove the liner and lights and start a pile -- there's more coming.

treynor

Step 2: remove the seats



Move the driver's seat backwards to expose the front attachment points. Remove the fasteners holding the 2 plastic bolt covers in place, then slide the covers forward and remove to expose the bolts illustrated. Do not pull UP on the bolt covers, as this will snap their delicate internals (don't ask me how I know).

Remove the two front seat bolts using a 16mm or 5/8" socket (an electric impact gun is recommended for the extremely lazy )

treynor

Step 3: continue removing the seats



Now, roll the driver's side seat forward until you can easily access the rear bolts. Before unbolting them, disconnect the battery, since you will next be detaching the seat-mounted airbags and it would be a real shame if they went off in your face



Once the positive lead is disconnected, remove the rear seat bolts using the same 5/8" socket.

JDogg

Check for metric sizing.....

treynor

Step 5: unplug and remove the seat



With the battery disconnected, tilt the seat sideways toward the interior of the car and unplug the three separate power plugs under the seat -- (1) and (2) for power seats, (3) for the airbags.

Finally, detach the seat belt mount point from the seat using (you guessed it) your 5/8" socket. Carefully remove the seat (don't scratch anything with the seat rails - they're sharp) and set it aside.

treynor

Step 6: remove the passenger seat.

The procedure is the same as for the driver's side seat, except that you will not need power to move the seat back and forth. Note that there is one electrical plug on the seatbelt mount point which is not present on the driver's side seat.

treynor

Step 7: remove the rear center console, pt 1



The center console covers a significant swath of thin, sound-passing sheetmetal. Off it comes!

Start by opening the center bin and removing the two rear bolt covers using a screwdriver. The bolts are 10mm. Remove them and set them aside, but do not yet try to remove the console.

treynor

Step 8: removing the center console, pt 2



1. Remove the small silver cover just behind the shifter
2. Carefully unclip the e-brake boot as shown and lift it clear
3. Undo the three forward bolts as illustrated.
4. Carefully lift and slide the center console backward. A part of the front console on the passenger side will come along for the ride - be sure not to torque it as you remove the console.
5. Finally, remove the thin rubber matting between the two rear bolt studs.

treynor

Step 9: unbolt the seat emergency releases



Remove the bolt covers on both seat releases.
Next, use the Torx T30 (you DID get one, right) to unscrew the bolts holding the two releases in place. Set the bolts and bolt covers aside, and pull the seat releases out of the way.

treynor

Step 10: remove the accelerator backstop and dead pedal



Using a 10mm deep socket, remove the two nuts that hold the accelerator backstop and the two bolts which hold the dead pedal in place. Remove both plastic pieces and associated nuts.

camille

Wow, I developed a cold sweat reading this thread! An impressive display of savoir faire, but not for the average non-modder like me.

treynor

Step 11: ready to start soundproofing!



Remove the driver and passenger side interior carpeting and the rear carpeting. Try tapping on the sheetmetal on the firewall, tranny tunnel, the trunk bedliner, and the area just behind the seats. You'll understand why there is such an opportunity to improve the soundproofing on this awesome vehicle!

Doc-ZO6

treynor

That's all for today - the above took me 3 hours working carefully, and would probably take 2 hours for a pro. Next, I'll document my soundproofing work and the results -- ETA, about a week.

Doc-ZO6

most helpful

LTC Z06

Added to FAQ.

vetteman22

Great post! keep us informed....I want to do mine but just lacked the know how on how to strip it without wrecking it.

Hans Grüber

Good time to add some thermal insulation to the driveshaft tunnel since many have been complaining about the heat.

SAXN8R

For us die-hard performance at all cost enthusiasts, do you think you could get an estimate on the weight of the materials used? It would be nice to see what the trade off/weight savings are. I can't imagine it would be much weight.

Corey