When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My 2 cents on the dry sump question. The stock setup with the air-oil cooler in front of the radiator is not a good design for the street. There is no thermostat and even in relatively hot South Carolina my oil temps would be around 160 unless driving very hard in the mountains. Even then it was hard to get it up to 200. So I put in a Dewitt's radiator with the oil cooler in the rad. This doesn't really warm up faster since the rad holds an extra gallon of coolant but it keeps the oil temps higher and much more stable. There are aftermarket thermostats that bypass the oil cooler until the oil warms up. Those probably do warm up quicker and definitely cost less but I didn't go that route and can't say how well they work.
I never let any engine just idle to warm up, much better to just drive gently for awhile. I always put the oil temp on the DIC and oil pressure on the HUD. I try to avoid pegging the oil pressure (80 PSI) gauge by keeping the revs down. It means a lot of short shifting (but not lugging) for about 15 minutes. I wait until I see at least 150 and preferably 160 oil temp before I stop watching the gauges and let 'er rip.
For me, I had to have a manual wide body coupe so the dry sump was coming along no matter what. The hand built motor wasn't really a factor but the forged crank is a nice extra.
My 2 cents on the dry sump question. The stock setup with the air-oil cooler in front of the radiator is not a good design for the street. There is no thermostat and even in relatively hot South Carolina my oil temps would be around 160 unless driving very hard in the mountains. Even then it was hard to get it up to 200. So I put in a Dewitt's radiator with the oil cooler in the rad. This doesn't really warm up faster since the rad holds an extra gallon of coolant but it keeps the oil temps higher and much more stable. There are aftermarket thermostats that bypass the oil cooler until the oil warms up. Those probably do warm up quicker and definitely cost less but I didn't go that route and can't say how well they work.
I never let any engine just idle to warm up, much better to just drive gently for awhile. I always put the oil temp on the DIC and oil pressure on the HUD. I try to avoid pegging the oil pressure (80 PSI) gauge by keeping the revs down. It means a lot of short shifting (but not lugging) for about 15 minutes. I wait until I see at least 150 and preferably 160 oil temp before I stop watching the gauges and let 'er rip.
For me, I had to have a manual wide body coupe so the dry sump was coming along no matter what. The hand built motor wasn't really a factor but the forged crank is a nice extra.
How about both - idle for 10-15 minutes then drive gently for awhile then --> hammer time !!!
I let it idle until coolant is 180 + then drive gently then......
My understanding is faster than 13.49 Verts need a roll bar. That would be any c6.
I just rechecked the rules and you are correct. I swore they updated it to 11.49 as I raced my vert with no flags and was much quicker than a corvette.
Thats wild because there are soo many stock convertibles that are faster than 13.49 and have been for decades.
I just rechecked the rules and you are correct. I swore they updated it to 11.49 as I raced my vert with no flags and was much quicker than a corvette.
Thats wild because there are soo many stock convertibles that are faster than 13.49 and have been for decades.
Most of the time I get one run and am told not to run again. On Power Tour they seem to let everything run.I have seen 2 people in a dune buggy with no helmets and Shorts and flip flops go down the track. It must drive their safety crews crazy.
How about both - idle for 10-15 minutes then drive gently for awhile then --> hammer time !!!
I let it idle until coolant is 180 + then drive gently then......
Idling is not going to warm up your trans or diff and wastes gas. Not the end of the world but I'd rather drive off and wait for the oil to warm up. I don't take it 2 miles to the grocery store.
It's in the front of the engine on the passenger side, look down low. At first glance not that easy to find. A light helps, once you locate it you'll remember where it is.
Post a pic.
One of the builders was named Don Henley. He used to post in the forum under the name Eaglei. He gave valuable insight about the engines they built at Wixom and reasons for the LS9 forged crankshaft.
Ha! I finally found it after a few years. I found and old thread where a builder said to remove the fuel rail cover.
Thanks for the help and reminder I wanted to find this
Didn’t take the bowling ***** because I needed room for the souvenirs to bring home. Was actually a great trip and first of many. Most difficult part was finding a no touch car wash!
Funny reading that thread from 17 years ago and everyone is busting on XM Radio. I have had XM Radio since around 2005 and that is all I listen to when in any of my cars, currently pay $44 mo for two cars and home. I also pay for OnStar on my 2019 Cadillac and 2023 Denali, still trying to figure out the value of that monthly charge.
Here goes the great debate vert or coupe. I never considered a coupe when I bought mine. Oh yea it is a vert, manual, z51 package, 3LT. Just don’t get any better than that for me. Just a cruiser for me and the wife.
All 3 of my current Vettes are convertibles as were the two before them.
Out with the old and in with the new so to speak. My all original 73 is being picked up this week by the new owner and my new to me 2012 Grand Sport is waiting on a transporter for delivery.
Out with the old and in with the new so to speak. My all original 73 is being picked up this week by the new owner and my new to me 2012 Grand Sport is waiting on a transporter for delivery.
That's awesome, congrats! They're almost the same color too, lol.
11-26-2023, 08:30 AM
I’m excited and happy for you. Way to go!
