Pettrix

If resale matters to you, selling a heavily modified car is more difficult as you just cut out about 80% of the market buyers. A stock C6 with just visual mods will sell faster than a supercharged version. People view such heavily modified cars as being "abused" and not as reliable. In addition, you ROI it terms of money put in vs what you will get out when sold, is about 25%. So if you put in $7k in upgrades, you might see $1,800 on resale.

While stout, the LS2/LS3 is not a fully forged bottom end, unlike the LS9 was from the factory. Supercharging puts additional stress on the reciprocating assembly. The tune is vital and so are the power levels.

AGlassOfMilk

Yea your probably right bro and I appreciate your concern 👍 but I don’t do donuts or swing my car or anything like that I would mostly do straight pulls probably around 40 or 50 mph but if I do end up going with the supercharger what would be my best bet to get maximum traction ?

tektrans

I have an AA style kit (ECS) and if you are driving normally you won't even know it's on the car.
That being said, traction is an issue when you get on it and I only have 580whp. (A6)
I'm planning on going to 18's out back with drag radials so that will help alot.
I'm not a twisties kinda driver so this kit is perfect for my needs.
All depends what you want. TVS blowers have more power down low whereas centri's make their power up top.
TVS could have tendency to run hotter but can be managed.

MARSC6

Tires have come a long way from the original factory run flats.

FAUEE

I know..I was.assuming new tires that were better.

My stock A6 GS would spin the crap out of 345 Michelin super sports if I let it. Talking about putting down a ton more power even on a 305 rear tire... you're gonna have to have very careful throttle control to get anywhere.

And it's important to note, this isn't a risk for drifting or sliding. At that power level the car will slide out at 50+ mph if you punch it. It's not a GTR where the car will drive itself with 900whp, if you make a mistake in this kind of power level c6, it will be unforgiving.

old motorhead

Agree with the above. My previous two C6's were supercharged. Either side of 650 at the wheels. With any kind of tire less than a drag radial, there would be no traction in the first two gears at WOT and it would also get loose above 5000rpm in third. Nothing quite like trying to keep it between the ditches at 90+mph. That's why my current C6 is heads/cam at 500rwhp. It's fast enough to be a lot of fun, but it's not trying to kill me every time I go WOT. On Michelin PS4's, it still has no traction in first and will get loose at the top of second. You still can't just mat the throttle whenever the mood strikes.

old motorhead

Agree with the above. My previous two C6's were supercharged. Either side of 650 at the wheels. With any kind of tire less than a drag radial, there would be no traction in the first two gears at WOT and it would also get loose above 5000rpm in third. Nothing quite like trying to keep it between the ditches at 90+mph. That's why my current C6 is heads/cam at 500rwhp. It's fast enough to be a lot of fun, but it's not trying to kill me every time I go WOT. On Michelin PS4's, it still has no traction in first and will get loose at the top of second. You still can't just mat the throttle whenever the mood strikes.

StayinStock

Agreed, I had a c5 that made roughly 700 on e85 with a 3.2 pulley on a vortech.... the car was a trip but i wouldn't dare not drive it on a radial, get caught in the rain with it, drive anywhere i couldnt get e85, drive anywhere that was out of distance of calling a buddy with a trailer... yeah... it was fun but it came with disadvantages too... 550-600 seems to be the magical number for enjoyable without being unmanageable. I've had more fun with my Cam only GS than I ever did with the c5... but its all in what you value. I get the allure of going fast in a straight line too. Just remember the faster you go the more expensive and the less reliable it gets... its that pick 2 syndrome...
you can have fast and cheap but it wont be reliable,
you can have reliable and fast but it wont be cheap,
you can have cheap and reilable but it wont be fast... the older I get the more I enjoy this category lol.

VetteVinnie

Therein lies the rub. The car won't stay "straight" on a straight pull with that much torque. That rear end will kick out to the left, and unless you have the instinct and experience to correct it without overcorrecting, you'll spin it into a guard rail. I've seen it happen. But best of luck. I plan to add a supercharger to my Grand Sport at some point. I really miss the torque and power (not to mention the mild mannerisms when my foot wasn't in it) of my 2010 ZR1, but I don't want to give up the convertible. My ZR1 had 683rwhp on E85. That was a bit much for street tires, but it sure put a smile on my face.

tektrans

Lotta inexperienced drivers spin and try to correct while still in the throttle. Most of the time that's a mistake.

Kevin Mason

Not to mention, too much boost on an an engine that isn't built for that much boost is a recipe for other kinds of trouble.

Turbo6TA

2011 GS, A6 with high stall converter and street tires
___________________________

1. WOT from a dead stop on street tires ... You might as well be driving on ice. Your not going anywhere soon.

2. WOT at 50 or 60 MPH on street tires ... The car wants to swap ends ... Scary and dangerous

Turbo6TA

And without drag radials, your not going to put the power to the ground with a C6 ... and running drag radials on a purely street car is not a real good idea either.

so .....

LOURDESBELLE

So……you would still want the most hp you can get safely on an otherwise stock motor! 9-10 psi of boost via supercharger.😁

Budarooski

Many people have great, reliable blower setups and enjoy trouble-free miles. However, there's a lot more than just slapping on a blower...

Some things to consider to have a reliable blower setup:

• To be SAFE, I would suggest a REAL fuel system when you add any blower to a car. The A&A kit comes with a BAP (Boost a Pump) that increases voltage to the stock fuel pump to increase fuel pressure. Not a solution I would ever put on my car because it can burn up a fuel pump (by thowing 17Vs at a pump designed for 12-13V, and if the BAP or pump fails at WOT there goes your motor...KAPLOOYE! A proper fuel system in going to cost you a lot of money (they have to drop the tank in install a bigger pump, which involves dropping the entire rear cradle from the car. Or, they can add an inline pump by tapping the tank and running an external pump inside the fender - neither solution is cheap).
• To reap the benefits of the blower, you'll should install headers, so figure in that cost as well. If the exhaust is restrictive, it'll limit the power of the blower by 50-70 hp, depending on the pully size.
• Since your car is a manual, you'll need a better clutch, which involves dropping the entire driveline/rear cradle (same as mentioned above on the fuel system).
• You'll also want to consider a better cooling system, because the intercooler blocks air to the radiator.
• A good harmonic balanced is a must with a blower, and it needs to be pinned to the crank.
• Lastly, being your car is a base C6, the rear tires aren't wide enough for that kind of power (even the wide body GS/Z06) is going to spin tires. Even if you go with a better tire (e.g. R888), they won't last even under normal driving...figure 2K-4K miles depending on your driving habits.

To do it right (as I listed above) so that's it reliable, doesn't run too hot, and has a safe tune, with a shop doing the work, including tuning, figure at least $15K-$18K plus going through tires.

I would suggest you spend some time in the forced induction section on this forum and read about issues people have...it's not always peaches and cream.

MARSC6

I've found Toyo R888rs work very well.

Turbo6TA

But, the only time the BAP increases voltage to the stock fuel pump is when your in boost. In fact, mine is set to increase voltage to the pump only when above 4 PSI boost ... and how much total time are you above 4 PSI boost when installed in a daily driver street car? ... not that much ... 5-6-7-8-9-10-11 seconds max at a time ?

My supercharger and the BAP has been in the car for the last 4 years with no problem ... and no lean AFR at the high revs at all ... AFR stays right at 11.7-1 at WOT all the way up to my 6,350 red line shift point (LS3 / A6 transmission).

LOURDESBELLE

As mentioned, for an otherwise stock motor, all you need is the offered supercharger kit by either A&A, ECS, etc The set up will be SAFE for an otherwise stock motor. Of course a full dyno tune will be mandatory. Now, if you’re wanting more and race the car, then it’s a whole different ball game. Again as mentioned, you’ll need an upgraded fuel pump, better clutch(manual), higher stall(auto), exhaust headers, E85 conversion, wheels/tires etc.

Solaris

With the fuel pump booster, you should consider running a separate harness. It's common to have heat problems in the fuse box on the fuel pump circuit. Mine just shut off one day because the dielectic grease charred up and interrupted the circuit. The plastic in that part of the box was really brittle, too. Racetronix sells a good harness https://www.racetronix.biz/p/c56-fue...rness/fpwh-008.

Pettrix

Spinning is not winning.

Having 700HP but not being able to put it to the ground is a waste of HP and dangerous. GM admitted that the C6 and C7 front engine and rear drive platforns had reached it's limit with engines achieving 600+HP. It made no sense to create such high HP engines and not be able to put it to the ground.