csnow

I have a 05 that lost its slave cylinder back in 2020 and the car has been sitting ever since. I know, I know... I should have drained the fuel, but I didn't so here we are. I was going through a huge home remodel that took most of my free time over the last two years, so the car was simply neglected. I put seafoam fuel treatment in her, bumped the starter over to make sure the rings weren't seized, and she fired right up. I was shocked actually, but she still runs like a top and hearing that cam again brought a smile to my face. With that said, the service fuel light is displayed, CEL is on, and the fuel gauge is not working.

I have ordered the Lingenfelter fuel pump assembly and new GM sending units for both sides. I will be installing a new clutch so the drivetrain will be out of the car. With the drivetrain out, can both tanks come down together without having to separate the crossover tube? I think the answer to that is yes, but I wanted to confirm. The next question is should I replace the o-rings and crossover tube since the parts are still available? I fear the o-rings may have dried out sitting and the plastics may be brittle from the Texas heat. I don't want to do the job twice and would rather spend $150 for those parts while it's on the ground. What else should I change while I am in here with the tanks out? Any other fuel sensors or evap items that are prone to failure that would be wise to swap due to the parts being 18 years old? Feels weird to type that, it doesn't seem like the car is that old (time flies).

Once the tanks are back in, what is the best way to check the fuel system functionality prior to driveline install? My plan was to use smoke to check for leaks and then energize the system and see if I am getting fuel to the rails.

Any tips, tricks, or words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated. I know I was a dumb **** on this whole thing, so there is no need to roast me, but if you feel compelled, I deserve it

Edit - I dusted off my Auto Enginuity and pulled the codes. It is the driver sending unit that is showing failed. I would have expected the passanger but I am stll replacing both while its on the ground.

C6VetteLover

I would do as much as possible with the drive train disassembled and fuel tanks down as possible. $150 sounds cheap compared to the lost time doing it again.

Ogre39

You can't drop the fuel tanks with the fuel crossover connected. It will have to be removed from both tanks, which is a pain and takes a lot of work and cursing. It will have to be completely removed. I didn't replace any o-rings in my 2008 when I had the tanks out, but if you want peace of mind, it's not a bad idea. If I were you, I would replace both fuel senders, one in each tank. This will ensure your gas gauge will read correctly for years to come. That is why I dropped mine when doing some torque tube maintenance. Once the tanks are back in, you should be able to fill with gas and pressurize the tanks and get fuel readings, if you leave the engine in the car. I didn't check mine before I installed the torque tube and put the tranny and cradle back in. I didn't have any leaks, thank God! Oh, very important! To install the fuel crossover, make sure you use plenty of lube on the rings. I tried for four hours to put my crossover in and couldn't do it. Sprayed the o-rings down with spray lube and I had it installed in less than 20 minutes. I didn't replace the rings, but they were really dry.

Hope this helps, and feel free to ask me any questions concerning this. I just did mine about 2 months ago.

cgladish

while I haven't any of this of work, I would still suggest changing whatever seals are associated with this works. like you said, you don't to do this twice. I will have at some point do my fuel level sensors too.
if I fill the tank till it clicks off, then the fuel gauge reads wonky for about 10-15 minutes. it jumps from empty to full, and back to empty again. this repeats usually three times, then it reads correctly the remainder of the tank.
if I gauge it correctly, and fill up just short, It will read fine. it's only when it totally fills up. just trying not to spend $1,2000 for as long as I can.

c5arlen

Good plan, and good luck.

csnow

Thanks everyone for your feedback. I went ahead and ordered a new x-over tube and o-rings for those lines in addition to the fuel pump and sending units (both sides) that I purchased the day prior.

I had it running last night and thought it would be a good idea to circulate the A/C for which I was greeted with nothing but hot air. The system must have had a small leak or an oring failed. I have no pressure at the Schrader valve. This project keeps winning. Looks like I get to do a full A/C replacement since the system is open. I am sure the San Antonio humidity has had a blast with my A/C internals. I just found out the dash has to come out for the evaporator, so I will go ahead and replace all the blend door actuators, blend door curtains, and heater core while I am in there. I believe there was a TSM and replacement for the blend door curtains on the 05s, so they are probably due regardless. The heater core looks like a royal pinta of a job - good Lord. Based on my luck, if I leave it I will have a drip as soon as I get it back together.

Joy oh joy it looks like I am going to be busy and my wallet a bit lighter.

Ogre39

Maybe you should take it to an AC shop before you jump to conclusions.

csnow

I have done a lot of AC work over the years on mine and other friends vehicles. I have manifold gauges, vacuum pump, etc. Humidity and open systems are typically bad news. At minimum, all the lines will need to be flushed and the dryer changed. I will know more once I have stuff a part. I won't just start throwing parts at it if that's what you're referring to.

I was already starting to have random blend door issues prior to it going down form the slave cylinder. Sometimes the heat would be coming out when it was on cold on the passenger side, but it was so sporadic that I never bothered addressing it. If I didn't have that history, I would just flush the evaporator vs pulling it. Trust me, I am not looking forward to pulling the dash. With that said, I am the type of person if I have something tore apart, I will replace wear items while I am in there. If the car was 7 or 8 years old, I wouldn't mess with the heater core, but, at 18 years it would be foolish in my opinion not to replace it while its fairly accessible. Probably overkill, but I try to keep vehicles a long time. My other two are a 06 Duramax and 00 Excursion. They are all labors of love, but I don't want a car payment, nor do I want to deal with all the ultra-modern computer and emission headaches.

torquetube

I suggest you replace all the transfer lines that run *inside* the crossover tube. This will also allow you to cut the old ones if they are stuck. Getting them separated with the crossover halfway pulled out can be difficult.

csnow

Based on the pics, the transfer lines come installed in the new tube. I will know for sure when it arrives.

torquetube

Possibly. But they definitely have their own part numbers and are available individually. I've bought all that stuff except the crossover itself.

csnow

Crossover arrived today. Confirmed - lines are included if anyone is searching for this in the future.