Ongoing battery issue
#1
Ongoing battery issue
Replaced battery in the middle of last summer. Car was fine the rest of the year, no issues at all. Put the car in storage like I normally do hooked up to a tender. It was 55 today in NY so i went to fire it up and completely dead. Tried to jump it with my wifes ford edge and seemed like i could not get a solid connection for the life of me. Took both terminals off the battery on the vette, cleaned them and put them back on still just didnt have enough juice to turn over. Tried my Duramax next and finally got it to start. Im noticing that both terminals seem loose even when tightening as much as possible especially the negative. Drove the vette around the neighborhood and let it run for a half hour but the odd part is that my radio was completely dead like it had no power. Pulled back in the garage shut it off and again completely dead. My thought is to replace the terminals. Any other suggestions as to what it could be? The same thing happened last winter but last year i just threw a new battery in and it was good the rest of the year (always on tender when parked)
#2
Potentially a possible solution for you but I’ll say that my ‘13 GS also seems to have a loose connection at the negative terminal. I can spin it on the post with light pressure. I believe I’ve seen “sleeves” that go over the posts for this exact issue… to make the circumference a hair wider.
#3
Drifting
It also sounds like your battery is toast. Maybe a dead cell? It can happen, however, the loose terminals are a problem.
#5
Drifting
You may have had a parasitic drain over the past few months, that could be why it was dead even with a battery tender. That can ruin a battery or cause a dead cell.
The following users liked this post:
Arevell115 (03-21-2023)
#6
Safety Car
Although we don’t store our cars for months at a time down here, have had the dead battery issue even with new battery. Found terminals would loosen up with time and had to re-torque them to get them tight. Also had internal corrosion on the positive side cable which had similar symptoms.
#7
Race Director
Member Since: Mar 2010
Location: T-Town WA
Posts: 15,123
Received 3,658 Likes
on
2,363 Posts
2016 C6 of Year Finalist
Do your batt clamps have the proper conical nut? They won't tighten correctly if no.
#8
Safety Car
#9
#10
Race Director
Member Since: Mar 2010
Location: T-Town WA
Posts: 15,123
Received 3,658 Likes
on
2,363 Posts
2016 C6 of Year Finalist
#11
Melting Slicks
Even if you have the conical nut they can get a groove worn in them and then they won't tighten down properly. Poor design in my book. Hard to understand how GM can screw up something so simple.
Take a look at the other ends of the cables too. Plenty of people have had problems there too.
Take a look at the other ends of the cables too. Plenty of people have had problems there too.
#13
Well... there's always the better mouse trap to be discovered.... and sometimes it's GM that's doin the trying. 😂
#14
Instructor
In my experience once a battery goes fully dead one time it weakens it permanently. My battery doesn't last for **** even though it's only a couple years old. Only lasts about 2 weeks now unless I drive it so i keep it on a trickle charger now.
adding a large gauge ground and power wire made a huge difference and helped my charging system. Went from around 13.5-13.8v to 14.2-14.4v all the time now
adding a large gauge ground and power wire made a huge difference and helped my charging system. Went from around 13.5-13.8v to 14.2-14.4v all the time now
#16
Drifting
Your battery has been on a tender, any tender, and the battery failed to start the car? BS on the battery being bad. Your tender must not work. A pathetic battery will start the car if maintained on a tender. Do some basic battery voltage readings, On tender, with tender disconnected, after trying to start, etc. The battery is not the problem. My 2 cents.
The following users liked this post:
FatChance (03-22-2023)
#18
IMHO Step 1 -- Take the current battery to an Auto Parts store that will test it for free (e.g Advance Auto). Hopefully the place you bought it from has this service - but if the battery is NG - you'll need some kind of proof for the warranty.
Step 2 - With a known good battery installed in the car- get the terminals nice and clean - and then get them tight. If you need to replace the battery cable - then replace it. No good comes from a loose battery terminal.
Step 3 - Check to see if you have an excessive parasitic draw (Lots of threads about this...)
Step 4 - Verify that your maintainer (battery tender) is working properly - hook it up to another car's battery or to a loose battery and monitor the voltage output. Most battery maintainers will get to output voltages around 14.2 V before moving to a maintenance mode.
Step 2 - With a known good battery installed in the car- get the terminals nice and clean - and then get them tight. If you need to replace the battery cable - then replace it. No good comes from a loose battery terminal.
Step 3 - Check to see if you have an excessive parasitic draw (Lots of threads about this...)
Step 4 - Verify that your maintainer (battery tender) is working properly - hook it up to another car's battery or to a loose battery and monitor the voltage output. Most battery maintainers will get to output voltages around 14.2 V before moving to a maintenance mode.
The following users liked this post:
Arevell115 (03-22-2023)
#19
Melting Slicks
Your battery has been on a tender, any tender, and the battery failed to start the car? BS on the battery being bad. Your tender must not work. A pathetic battery will start the car if maintained on a tender. Do some basic battery voltage readings, On tender, with tender disconnected, after trying to start, etc. The battery is not the problem. My 2 cents.
The following users liked this post:
Motorman193 (03-26-2023)