How often to start over the winter?
#22
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tommyc6z06 (12-24-2022)
#23
Drifting
I am very thankful that I live in the Valley of the Sun and don't have to put the car up for the winter. God bless all of you that can't drive your car for months at a time! I hope everyone has the best holidays ever!!
#24
Melting Slicks
I stored my GS last winter for 6 months because I had both knees replaced. Made sure the key popped the hatch, some what over inflated the tires, disconnected the battery, spread some dryer sheets around and closed her up. 6 months later, reconnected the battery and she fired right up. Indexed the windows, reset the tire pressure and good to go.
#25
I live in New England. I don't change the oil I only put about 800 miles on the car this year. So, Mobile 1 can handle the winter down time. I don't start the engine at all. I have a Black and Decker trickle charger maintaining the battery for about 6 months to spring. I'll do a flood start to lube the top of the motor with oil and avoid a dry start in the spring. Change the oil, let a few pounds of air out of the tires. Good to go. I've done this on 4 Vettes and one 5th gen Camaro. Good luck.
#26
Instructor
I have my C6 base in storage for the winter. Unfortunately, the storage unit doesn't have power. I can't hook up a battery tender. How often do i need to start it? Drive it, weather permitting? I see recommendations from weekly to monthly on my google search. What does your experience tell you?
#27
Instructor
The reason why many mechanics and enthusiasts recommend starting and running a car up to operating temperature at least on a monthly basis is to keep seals, gaskets and other rubber parts from dry rotting. We may be able to get away with this since our C6s are not as old as other collector vehicles, but eventually over years, it may catch up with us.
As others have mentioned in this thread, I regularly employ the cranking procedure. I do this if the car was not run in a couple of days since the oil is at the bottom of the pan, especially on dry sump engines.
I realize when you have harsh winters and summer tires, there are very few days when you can take your Vette out. But if there is a rare dry day over 40 degrees, I would strongly suggest a 20 minute drive if possible! Otherwise, if conditions prohibit a drive, what about just cranking the engine two to three times for 20 seconds to spay some oil inside the engine? If so, you will definitely need to recharge the battery as cranking will drain it down.
If you can’t move the car, be sure to pump the tires to 40psi as someone else mentioned to avoid flat spots in the tires unless you jack the tires off the ground.
As others have mentioned in this thread, I regularly employ the cranking procedure. I do this if the car was not run in a couple of days since the oil is at the bottom of the pan, especially on dry sump engines.
I realize when you have harsh winters and summer tires, there are very few days when you can take your Vette out. But if there is a rare dry day over 40 degrees, I would strongly suggest a 20 minute drive if possible! Otherwise, if conditions prohibit a drive, what about just cranking the engine two to three times for 20 seconds to spay some oil inside the engine? If so, you will definitely need to recharge the battery as cranking will drain it down.
If you can’t move the car, be sure to pump the tires to 40psi as someone else mentioned to avoid flat spots in the tires unless you jack the tires off the ground.
#28
The reason why many mechanics and enthusiasts recommend starting and running a car up to operating temperature at least on a monthly basis is to keep seals, gaskets and other rubber parts from dry rotting. We may be able to get away with this since our C6s are not as old as other collector vehicles, but eventually over years, it may catch up with us.
As others have mentioned in this thread, I regularly employ the cranking procedure. I do this if the car was not run in a couple of days since the oil is at the bottom of the pan, especially on dry sump engines.
I realize when you have harsh winters and summer tires, there are very few days when you can take your Vette out. But if there is a rare dry day over 40 degrees, I would strongly suggest a 20 minute drive if possible! Otherwise, if conditions prohibit a drive, what about just cranking the engine two to three times for 20 seconds to spay some oil inside the engine? If so, you will definitely need to recharge the battery as cranking will drain it down.
If you can’t move the car, be sure to pump the tires to 40psi as someone else mentioned to avoid flat spots in the tires unless you jack the tires off the ground.
As others have mentioned in this thread, I regularly employ the cranking procedure. I do this if the car was not run in a couple of days since the oil is at the bottom of the pan, especially on dry sump engines.
I realize when you have harsh winters and summer tires, there are very few days when you can take your Vette out. But if there is a rare dry day over 40 degrees, I would strongly suggest a 20 minute drive if possible! Otherwise, if conditions prohibit a drive, what about just cranking the engine two to three times for 20 seconds to spay some oil inside the engine? If so, you will definitely need to recharge the battery as cranking will drain it down.
If you can’t move the car, be sure to pump the tires to 40psi as someone else mentioned to avoid flat spots in the tires unless you jack the tires off the ground.
#29
Intermediate
There is a lot of good information in this thread for those of us that store there cars during the winter months. I always fill the tank and add stabilizer. Then take the car for one last spin before putting her away. This year I have kept the car up on my quick jack…….that way I can get to all the maintenance items I have on my list……..oil change, transmission oil and filter change, and flush the brake lines. Always on a tender!
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#30
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Jan 2017
Location: Morris County New Jersey
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The reason why many mechanics and enthusiasts recommend starting and running a car up to operating temperature at least on a monthly basis is to keep seals, gaskets and other rubber parts from dry rotting. We may be able to get away with this since our C6s are not as old as other collector vehicles, but eventually over years, it may catch up with us.
#31
Safety Car
Member Since: Aug 2017
Location: Etobicoke (Toronto) Ontario
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Newer seals and gaskets are far superior to the ones they use to use or were available years ago. Yeah, it may catch up with us eventually, but they should last much longer than they once did. Leaks under cars and trucks was a much more common thing back in the day, even on cars that were not that old.
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#33
Team Owner
I was thinking about that but it did get power immediately when I hooked up jumpers to it a couple of weeks ago. I'll see how it goes in spring. It's on the tender now and all systems are green so maybe i saved it .lol .
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LCZ06 (12-28-2022)
#35
Safety Car
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puterami (12-22-2022)
#36
Safety Car
#37
Drifting
I started mine today, removed the Targa Top and went for a drive in the 71 degree weather. It was a perfectly beautiful day!
#38
Safety Car
Thanks for all the replies. I have used the key recently to pop the hatch. Good to know that works. It hadn't occurred to me that could get gummed up. *DUH* I've thought about disconnecting the battery.
I'd like to drive her down the interstate 30 or so miles every couple of weeks, rather than disconnect the battery. I'll let you know how that plan works out. Interestingly enough, my mechanic recommended starting it monthly.
I'd like to drive her down the interstate 30 or so miles every couple of weeks, rather than disconnect the battery. I'll let you know how that plan works out. Interestingly enough, my mechanic recommended starting it monthly.
To avoid the key latch issue simply stuff a paper towel in the latch area so the rear hatch can not close completely.
Last edited by Keppler; 12-24-2022 at 08:50 PM.
#39
Instructor
As you can see you’ll get a wide variety of opinions on this matter. Some have offered really good tips. Here’s what has worked for me as I store my car over the winter from early December until mid-March every year. First, I change the oil(Pennzoil Ultra) before storage. Next, I top off my fuel tank with 3 different gasoline’s varying from BP, Shell, Exxon or Sunoco because each one has different detergent/cleaning agents. Then every 3-4 days I run it for around 20 minutes moving it back and forth in the garage. Over 10 years I’ve experienced zero issues doing this. As you use gas over this time, just top-off the tank with your gas of choice from a fresh filled gas can. Good luck and God bless
Last edited by buck fever; 12-26-2022 at 09:27 PM.