4 post lift...
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
4 post lift...
Hey guys. I just bought and assembled a 4 post Dannmar D7 lift in my shop last night and I have a question for the group? So here's what has me scratching my head... I had the actual outside to outside dimensions of this lift before it arrived and positioned the corner markings for all 4 posts on my concrete floor so it could be assembled perfectly where I wanted it when we got started building it. After completion of the assembly I parked the car on the lift and called it a night. Today I went out there and filled the hydraulic system and raised the car up/down a few times to get any air out of the system. Seems to be working really well, but then I noticed that all 4 of the legs have moved off of my square marks (about 3/8") where it was originally laid out... Keep in mind, I haven't sunk any bolts through the feet yet attaching it to the concrete floor, but I found it strange that the weight of the car must have been enough pressure to move the legs a bit outward.. Have any of you noticed any small movements in the legs of your lifts if yours isn't anchored down? My floor is epoxy so I'm thinking it slid a bit rather than gripping and staying in place like it would on bare concrete?.... Will it be a tighter working lift if the legs are anchored to the floor and that "flex" is taken out of the equation? I'm not concerned, I'm just curious if any of you have had something similar happen. Thanks.
#2
My neighbor has a 4 post in his driveway that he moves around a lot. It has always had a noticeable amount of flex to it and there hasn't been an issue with it.
I can't comment on how it will be when secured to the floor
I can't comment on how it will be when secured to the floor
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Velocity31 (06-10-2021)
#4
Instructor
I have an Advantage 4 post on an epoxy floor, unsecured . I have not noted any movement. I've had to put the wheel kit on twice to reposition, glad I did not bolt it down.
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Velocity31 (06-10-2021)
#5
Instructor
I bolted mine down I didn’t like the way the towers moved.
When I first installed mine without bolting down I didn’t notice any shifting.
When I first installed mine without bolting down I didn’t notice any shifting.
Last edited by Moman01; 06-10-2021 at 03:53 PM.
#7
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Do you store a vehicle on your 2 post for extended periods of time, or is it mainly just for wrenching on your car? I was on the fence on which style to get, and since my car is in storage for 5-6 months per year (Wisconsin) I went with the 4 post. Mostly for the additional shop space I'll get once it's up and stowed away. The 2 post seemed awesome though because of the ease to get the wheels off/on for sure... Wasn't certain if a 2 post would be safe enough to leave it up in the air for our long winters...
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Velocity31 (06-10-2021)
#9
Melting Slicks
Are you backing on by chance? I've found backing on, which I have to do because of ceiling clearance, will move the lift slightly, the back wheels are on the ramp and pulling 3000 pounds up the ramp, (im assuming you are going very slow since it's new to you, and p ui pulling the front wheels up the ramp can cause it to move) which can then move the lift. There are advantages to the different lifts. The two posts have to be anchored, which some of us cant or didnt want to do. Also, be careful putting the tire blockers on at the end. They can mess up the under side of your car. I have a full size race ramp prior to the piece of steel that the back tire touches so I know to stop.
Last edited by psp6158; 06-10-2021 at 07:03 PM.
#10
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Are you backing on by chance? I've found backing on, which I have to do because of ceiling clearance, will move the lift slightly, the back wheels are on the ramp and pulling 3000 pounds up the ramp, (im assuming you are going very slow since it's new to you, and p ui pulling the front wheels up the ramp can cause it to move) which can then move the lift. There are advantages to the different lifts. The two posts have to be anchored, which some of us cant or didnt want to do. Also, be careful putting the tire blockers on at the end. They can mess up the under side of your car. I have a full size race ramp prior to the piece of steel that the back tire touches so I know to stop.
No, I drove on normal. Nice and slow checking my side clearance. Im guessing it just flexed a bit from the weight. I'm not concerned about 3/8". If it was 2", it would be a whole other story. I think ill bolt it down anyways. It'll be a 5 minute job then I won't have to worry about it.
#11
Melting Slicks
Yeah, my 4 post lift "walks" around the garage a bit. Typically less than an inch over months. It seems to be a combination of the lift just flexing, the car going up and down the ramps, and a little bit of just rocking the lift a bit (I always give it a little safety check before I head under it). The photos (2 and 3) below show the amount of drift over a few months. If it ever gets too far out of line, I just push it back into place when the cars are out of the garage.
A couple of tips. I found putting some 3M White Electrician's tape on the floor to be a handy visual aid when I'm backing in. It also nicely defines my "keep this area clear" zone before lowering the lift. In addition, I've put down some black gaffer tape on the lift ramps exactly where the rear tire chocks should go (just so I know exactly where to put them). I can just back the car onto the ramp until I hit them and I know I'm right there next to the back wall. I keep my lift pushed all the way to the back wall so that I can leave the ramps on and close the garage door. I ponied up some extra dough for extended aluminum ramps (it was an option with the Bend Pak lifts).....worth every penny....the stock steel ramps weigh a ton and the aluminum ones are a breeze to attach and then remove.
Also another nice thing is you can stick the Harbor Freight magnetic tool cart accessories to the lift to put your gloves and have some outlets handy (photo 4). I found the paper towel holders to be great hooks for things like tape, extension cords, etc. I guess they'd work for paper towels too, but I found I use them more to hang my battery tender on.
I've heard debates on bolting them to the floor. I live in California, and my gut is telling me I'd rather have the lift flex and walk around the garage during an earthquake....hopefully I'll never have to find out.
Good luck with your lift....one of the best things I've ever purchased....doing my own oil changes, brake jobs and other basic maintenance have more than paid for the cost of the lift.
A couple of tips. I found putting some 3M White Electrician's tape on the floor to be a handy visual aid when I'm backing in. It also nicely defines my "keep this area clear" zone before lowering the lift. In addition, I've put down some black gaffer tape on the lift ramps exactly where the rear tire chocks should go (just so I know exactly where to put them). I can just back the car onto the ramp until I hit them and I know I'm right there next to the back wall. I keep my lift pushed all the way to the back wall so that I can leave the ramps on and close the garage door. I ponied up some extra dough for extended aluminum ramps (it was an option with the Bend Pak lifts).....worth every penny....the stock steel ramps weigh a ton and the aluminum ones are a breeze to attach and then remove.
Also another nice thing is you can stick the Harbor Freight magnetic tool cart accessories to the lift to put your gloves and have some outlets handy (photo 4). I found the paper towel holders to be great hooks for things like tape, extension cords, etc. I guess they'd work for paper towels too, but I found I use them more to hang my battery tender on.
I've heard debates on bolting them to the floor. I live in California, and my gut is telling me I'd rather have the lift flex and walk around the garage during an earthquake....hopefully I'll never have to find out.
Good luck with your lift....one of the best things I've ever purchased....doing my own oil changes, brake jobs and other basic maintenance have more than paid for the cost of the lift.
Last edited by DigitalWidgets; 06-10-2021 at 09:29 PM.
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RootsRadical (06-14-2021)
#12
Safety Car
I haven't noticed any movement in my 4 post, I don't have it anchored down as I want it free should I decide to relocate it in my shop.
#13
Team Owner
Member Since: Dec 2012
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I would contact Dannmar and see what they say about it.
#14
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Update: I wiggled the lift back to where it originally was to my lay-out marks on my shop floor, squared it up good, and bolted it down with some 5/8" x 6" Simpson Titan concrete anchors. Now it's not going to move at all! Only put 2 bolts per leg in case I wanna move the lift in the future. Much more confident now!
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ButWhatDoIKnow (06-13-2021)
#15
Safety Car
Update: I wiggled the lift back to where it originally was to my lay-out marks on my shop floor, squared it up good, and bolted it down with some 5/8" x 6" Simpson Titan concrete anchors. Now it's not going to move at all! Only put 2 bolts per leg in case I wanna move the lift in the future. Much more confident now!