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As pretty much all of you know, it gets pretty hot inside the C6. The center console gets super hot. I can generally feel the heat on my right leg as well. Like I said, I'm not telling you anything you don't already know. I have done some research on this site as well as other places online regarding the lack of insulation and fixes for it.
I really think this is a project I want to tackle. I think that it will make sense for me since I really plan on driving the car as much as I can. I also want to take it on some nice road trips. I think that it might be more comfortable if I do something to eliminate some of the heat in the car. I know there are some companies that make a kit for the C6. I have also read some other people have done it themselves for half or less of the cost of the kits. I also read that some people felt like there was a dramatic improvement in both heat and noise reduction, while others said they felt like they wasted time and money. My main concern is the heat reduction. If I get some noise reduction too, great. I'm not super worried about weight because I don't plan on ever tracking the car at all. I found some disassembly instructions online for everything in the cockpit, which should really help with the project.
I would love some feedback from anyone out there that has done this. Was it worth your time/money? Did you use the kit? Did you use another insulation product and cut it yourself? How did you ensure it stays in place, type of adhesive, tape, etc? How hard was the job? How long did it take? And any other information, tips, thoughts or ideas you may have.
I used the vette nuts pre cut pre marked insulation package, and it did wonders to reduce the cabin heat.
Thank you! Which kit did you use? It looks like they have a regular and a premium kit? If you used the regular kit, how did you adhere it? They say the premium is peel and stick, but they don't specify about the regular kit.
I had the same concerns with my car as you do yours. I drive my c6 daily in Florida heat, so something had to be done. I ended up ordering the exotic vette extreme. While I did not install the sound deadening material, I did install the insulation. IMHO, all it did was delay the process of heat soak. It gives you an extra 30 mins or so in the seat before your right leg really gets hot. I still can't use my center console for anything that I don't want scorched, and my cup holders still get pretty warm. It did help, but did not eradicate the issue. To me, the juice was not worth the squeeze. It took me about 8 hrs, taking my time, ripping out the entire interior and installing the kit while adhering it with hvac aluminum tape. What a PITA! Best of luck to you. I hope if you decide to do it, that it works better for you than it did me.
I had the same concerns with my car as you do yours. I drive my c6 daily in Florida heat, so something had to be done. I ended up ordering the exotic vette extreme. While I did not install the sound deadening material, I did install the insulation. IMHO, all it did was delay the process of heat soak. It gives you an extra 30 mins or so in the seat before your right leg really gets hot. I still can't use my center console for anything that I don't want scorched, and my cup holders still get pretty warm. It did help, but did not eradicate the issue. To me, the juice was not worth the squeeze. It took me about 8 hrs, taking my time, ripping out the entire interior and installing the kit while adhering it with hvac aluminum tape. What a PITA! Best of luck to you. I hope if you decide to do it, that it works better for you than it did me.
Thank you so much for the post! Not what I wanted to hear, but I appreciate the honesty!
As pretty much all of you know, it gets pretty hot inside the C6..... .
When I completed my first long-distance drive in the 2013 427 I purchased in late 2019 my first MAJOR complaint was the heat issue. I was so dissatisfied with the car I nearly got rid of it the very next week. I also searched this forum, was tempted to do the heat resistant tunnel plate plus full interior shielding. I am not a mechanic and the vette shops around Pensacola FL are all rip offs. Not going to say any business names but one shop wanted to charge me $890 in labor to install a $300 part under the car then another $700 for the interior heat sheild. I wanted to tell this guy to pound sand, not for his outrageous prices but primarily because he was rude and obnoxious.
I used to only drive this car on the weekends and after implementing a few driving adjustments I solved the heat issue without spending a dime. Since the 427 is a convertible, I primarily drive when the top can stay down, weather permitting of course. When the outside temp is 85+ and I have my top down, I adjust all AC vents to point down to the floor and turn the AC on high, and whatever heat is hanging around the center console is gone in a few minutes.
Sounds silly? it’s not… it WORKS and it works very good. Last summer before COVID made a mess of things I drove 75% of Route66 in 3 days with outside temps in the mid to upper 90’s. I had the top down and AC set as described above. Absolutely no interior heat issues and no impact on the car, even when driving on the spirited side for long stretches, during the entire trip water temps never broke 215.
Today, the 427 is a garage queen and will likely be picked up by Carvana over the weekend, this decision has nothing to do with heat issues.
When I completed my first long-distance drive in the 2013 427 I purchased in late 2019 my first MAJOR complaint was the heat issue. I was so dissatisfied with the car I nearly got rid of it the very next week. I also searched this forum, was tempted to do the heat resistant tunnel plate plus full interior shielding. I am not a mechanic and the vette shops around Pensacola FL are all rip offs. Not going to say any business names but one shop wanted to charge me $890 in labor to install a $300 part under the car then another $700 for the interior heat sheild. I wanted to tell this guy to pound sand, not for his outrageous prices but primarily because he was rude and obnoxious.
I used to only drive this car on the weekends and after implementing a few driving adjustments I solved the heat issue without spending a dime. Since the 427 is a convertible, I primarily drive when the top can stay down, weather permitting of course. When the outside temp is 85+ and I have my top down, I adjust all AC vents to point down to the floor and turn the AC on high, and whatever heat is hanging around the center console is gone in a few minutes.
Sounds silly? it’s not… it WORKS and it works very good. Last summer before COVID made a mess of things I drove 75% of Route66 in 3 days with outside temps in the mid to upper 90’s. I had the top down and AC set as described above. Absolutely no interior heat issues and no impact on the car, even when driving on the spirited side for long stretches, during the entire trip water temps never broke 215.
Today, the 427 is a garage queen and will likely be picked up by Carvana over the weekend, this decision has nothing to do with heat issues.
Interesting! The fact that you said there were no ill effects on the car makes me think! I usually won't run the AC if the top is down, it just seems crazy to me. Maybe I will give this a try on a local drive and see how it goes.
I did the sound deadening and the premium Vettenuts insulation shortly after I bought my GS, which was 2.5 years ago. Those two items made a noticeable reduction in both heat and sound. Just recently, I installed long tube headers and had them and the entire exhaust ceramic coated and while doing that, I also replaced the tunnel plate with the much thicker 3/8” Elite Engineering tunnel plate. Heat in the console and cup holders is almost nonexistent now. I’m guessing a lot of that is due to the ceramic coating, but as I noted initially, I did notice a significant reduction of heat with the sound deadening and insulation. In my opinion, was totally worth the time, money, and effort.
Second Skin Dampler Pro Premium Vettenuts insulation Ceramic coated long tubes, etc., and 3/8” Elite Engineering tunnel plate
Last edited by TripleB5832; 06-08-2021 at 02:01 PM.
I did the sound deadening and the premium Vettenuts insulation shortly after I bought my GS, which was 2.5 years ago. Those two items made a noticeable reduction in both heat and sound. Just recently, I installed long tube headers and had them and the entire exhaust ceramic coated and while doing that, I also replaced the tunnel plate with the much thicker 5/8” Elite Engineering tunnel plate. Heat in the console and cup holders is almost nonexistent now. I’m guessing a lot of that is due to the ceramic coating, but as I noted initially, I did notice a significant reduction of heat with the sound deadening and insulation. In my opinion, was totally worth the time, money, and effort.
Thank you so much! BTW, that exhaust looks beautiful!!
I installed a Crazy Cowboy delux insulation kit as well as an Elite Engineering insulated tunnel plate in my 2011 Grand Sport. Significant reduction in both heat and noise. A lot of work but well worth it.
Take out the interior and put in Boom Mat update also. My 2012 Grand Sport, even with out runflat tires is to noisey. Well worth the effort and money. I was not very fast and it took me 24 hrs of working time to do my interior with Boom Mat and an additional heat resistant mat.
I also put heat shielding on the bottom of the car.
I installed a Crazy Cowboy delux insulation kit as well as an Elite Engineering insulated tunnel plate in my 2011 Grand Sport. Significant reduction in both heat and noise. A lot of work but well worth it.
Originally Posted by Nelag
Take out the interior and put in Boom Mat update also. My 2012 Grand Sport, even with out runflat tires is to noisey. Well worth the effort and money. I was not very fast and it took me 24 hrs of working time to do my interior with Boom Mat and an additional heat resistant mat.
I also put heat shielding on the bottom of the car.
Thank you both! I have spent hours looking at all of the options and materials to use!
Thank you! Which kit did you use? It looks like they have a regular and a premium kit? If you used the regular kit, how did you adhere it? They say the premium is peel and stick, but they don't specify about the regular kit.
The regular kit is set down on the flat surfaces, then joined together with aluminum tape at the seams. At corners, or vertical, Unused aluminum tape to adhere it to the surface, then joined the seams with aluminum tape as well.
I'm in the Northeast, so I'm not dealing with 100+ degrees outside temps day after day.
I have done road trips in the south during the late Spring and Summers, and It is way cooler in the cockpit than it was prior to installing the kit.
The C6 has a very efficient A/C so that also helps.
The regular kit is set down on the flat surfaces, then joined together with aluminum tape at the seams. At corners, or vertical, Unused aluminum tape to adhere it to the surface, then joined the seams with aluminum tape as well.
I'm in the Northeast, so I'm not dealing with 100+ degrees outside temps day after day.
I have done road trips in the south during the late Spring and Summers, and It is way cooler in the cockpit than it was prior to installing the kit.
The C6 has a very efficient A/C so that also helps.
Ok, so the flat surfaces are not stuck to the car at all, they are just laying there but connected to each other with the aluminum tape? From what I've read about the aluminum insulation they seem to say that there should be some sort of gap between the area where the hot/cold air is coming in and the insulation. So, that makes sense that it wouldn't need to be stuck to the car.
I'm learning a lot and spending way too much time looking at all this information!
05-25-2021, 04:11 PM
Has Anyone Insulated Their C6?
