AnthonyM

Moog endlinks lasted about 5,000 miles- what went wrong? Should I trust Moog a second time or do I use a different brand/OEM? I know a lot of people use the Moog replacements here, but I want to get at least one full season out of them. Granted, I do live in Ohio, but our roads aren't *that bad*

2008 base with Z51 swaybars

NYC6

Jeez, I needed end links up front and read so many good reviews here on Moogs so I went out bought them and installed them a few weeks ago. Much more substantial in hand compared to the OE pieces. Any chance the ones you got are knockoffs?

Kenny94945

How did the ends fail?

Break, bend, ball & socket component, lubrication issue, other?
Stock alignment, stock ride height?
Upgraded sway bar install error?
Summer driving implies failure was not to dirt or debris.

AnthonyM

I haven't removed them yet but I'm getting the same clunking familiar with bad endlinks. Stock ride height, good alignment, etc. All I can think of is maybe exceeding the torque specs (I did it by hand and I was firm)

Landru

Have you tried an email to Moog's CS?
Ask MCS if 5K is their normal duty cycle.
See what they say.

Might be a 'bad' batch Moog's aware of, might just send new ones on their dime.
Great way for Moog to promote their product(s) is extending some goodwill when merited.
Like now.

wayback

Did you get the ones with grease zerks?
Had mine on for over 100,000 miles. Give them a pump of grease yearly.

Don't know about the sealed ones.
GL

ArtClassShank

Same thing happened to me, they were greased appropriately and still started clunking.

Went with Pro-forged and was very impressed, quality pieces and no more clunks, similar mileage to the MOOGs at this point.

starr1

I just completed installing moog sway bar links on my '08 within the past hour and I see this post. Wow. I ordered mine from amazon and had to return one because the grease boot was defective. Taking a break before I take it for a test drive. Time will tell how they hold up. A loose axle nut can cause a clunking noise. Good luck.

NYC6

Mine came greased but a little too soft for my liking so I gave them a couple easy pumps till the Mobil 1 grease just started to ooze out slightly, wiped them down and put them on.

LilNutSac

Yeah. Post up a pic. I've been using the MOOG greasable endlinks (Moog K750136 Stabilizer Bar Link Kit) daily for ~60K miles without issue. Always laughed at the non-greasable "silent" endlinks for hundreds of dollars CorvetteTax at it's finest!

h8snow

Bought Moog endlinks for a Lexus I had once they were total trash. Very poor quality grease seals kind of looked like something that should be on a garden tractor. Stay with OEM.

cmonkey713

I replaced all four end links with LG Motorsports quiet links. These are for extreme duty hiem joint links on for 10K miles now and still perform and look new.

Let It Ride

Been using the oem end links on my 2013 GS since new with JOC sway bars (way heavier and stiffer than oem) and never a noise or problem in 6 years.

C6ToGo

GM replaced all 4 links at 31k with an improved design while under warranty. At 55k, one rear started acting up.

Had read that name brands links were still prone to early failure. So I went with no-name O'reilly Auto parts cause they have a lifetime warranty. Figured I could just swap for free as needed. Haven't had to yet. Have 88k now.

HOXXOH

That's funny, since the "improvement" only benefited ease of installation. The early ones had an internal torx recess to hold the threaded shaft from rotating when tightening the nut. Revision #2 switched to a hex recess. The most recent to my knowledge, rev #3 utilizes an external hex. I've had all three styles and even cut apart the ones that failed and found no internal differences. I've also used an 18 mm open end wrench on the flats of the shaft, rather than trying to deal with a torx or allen wrench or hex box wrench. What did occur to me, is the hole size in the sway bar is nearly .060 larger than the threaded shaft of the link. Of course, if the nut is not torqued to spec or tighter, the shaft can move in the hole and make the same knocking sound as if it's failing. I'm not saying that's the cause of the knocking, but it could be in some cases. The torque spec is 53 ft lbs. The last time I removed the links, I torqued the nuts to something beyond 60 ft lbs. I've had no knocking in nearly 40K miles. Was that the cure? I don't know, but I'm just mentioning my experience. YMMV.

wayback

I wore out 2 sets of those in under 80,000 miles. The nylon bushing wears out. They were quiet up till then.

cmonkey713

I don't drive mine that much but I can see where that could be an issue. There is another version that does not have the nylon. I wonder is these would be "noisy" or not quiet. We used the aircraft heim joints on the race cars with no ill effect but who cares if they are noisy on a race car.