Travelling with 2 fobs...
#21
Pro
Thread Starter
#22
Race Director
#23
Normally it is fob marked #1 that has been programmed to be the primary initially. It is also possible to reprogram any FOB to be the primary FOB.
The vehicle comes standard with two transmitters, and up to four can be matched to your vehicle. The owners manual explains how to program the FOB's.
The vehicle comes standard with two transmitters, and up to four can be matched to your vehicle. The owners manual explains how to program the FOB's.
#25
Pro
Thread Starter
OK, ...My post was simply to warn members that use passive auto lock.
"That it may not lock the doors if you travel with 2 fobs." as in my case.
If you check into a motel, leave the fobs inside, ...go out to the car and make
sure it is locked.
...jerry
"That it may not lock the doors if you travel with 2 fobs." as in my case.
If you check into a motel, leave the fobs inside, ...go out to the car and make
sure it is locked.
...jerry
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4SUMERZ (10-18-2019)
#26
Race Car Tech
The later years (2008-2013) with the newer FOB, have their number stamped on the top of the FOB
Last edited by 4SUMERZ; 10-18-2019 at 12:24 PM.
#27
Le Mans Master
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I still think that's the answer, one is not set to auto-lock. I just performed this inane experiment and the car locked with both remotes in my pocket.
And if I ever felt the need to travel with two remotes, I'd put one in my luggage in a Faraday bag. I can't think of any good reason to have both in my pocket.
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GigG (10-18-2019)
#29
Le Mans Master
And they might as well be called Bob and Alice rather than #1 and #2. The electronics inside are identical for all FOBs except for the serial number. The number on the outside is only for humans to identify the possible differences. The only thing the car cares about is there are 4 memory addresses for FOB serial numbers. When programming the first FOB identified goes in memory #1, the second in #2, etc. The first 2 addresses work with the memory functions of seats, mirrors, radio, etc. The last 2 only work for starting/stopping, manually locking/unlocking, alarm, and popping the hatch. That's why the memory functions don't work when a dealer replaces a lost FOB. They don't want to spend the time to erase the old numbers so the new FOB ID gets stored in the third (or fourth) address.
#30
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And they might as well be called Bob and Alice rather than #1 and #2. The electronics inside are identical for all FOBs except for the serial number. The number on the outside is only for humans to identify the possible differences. The only thing the car cares about is there are 4 memory addresses for FOB serial numbers. When programming the first FOB identified goes in memory #1, the second in #2, etc. The first 2 addresses work with the memory functions of seats, mirrors, radio, etc. The last 2 only work for starting/stopping, manually locking/unlocking, alarm, and popping the hatch. That's why the memory functions don't work when a dealer replaces a lost FOB. They don't want to spend the time to erase the old numbers so the new FOB ID gets stored in the third (or fourth) address.
I just bought a '53 Buick, but it only has one fob. Do you know where I can get another one? Google brought up nothing.
Attachment 48332111
#32
Le Mans Master
I'm still around every day but I don't spend much time digging to the bottom of the list nor do I answer much because of all the misinformation being passed around.
As far as your Buick FOB is concerned, it might be easier to get something like this https://www.hobbytown.com/kraken-vek...kv7702/p652460 and replace the body with the one from your Buick. Notice these are on backorder because of the tremendous demand by other vintage car owners.
Oh, yes, and to stay on topic. The easiest and least expensive way to carry 2 FOBs and have no chance at all of any confusion is to just take the battery out of the "spare". As long as it isn't in the glove box slot the car can't possibly see it. Then, if your other FOB fails you just use the key to get in, retrieve the "spare", put it in the slot, and drive to the nearest Wal-Mart where they have a display of batteries that will work perfectly in your FOB. Using this method you also never have to worry about the battery in the spare going dead and leaking.
As far as your Buick FOB is concerned, it might be easier to get something like this https://www.hobbytown.com/kraken-vek...kv7702/p652460 and replace the body with the one from your Buick. Notice these are on backorder because of the tremendous demand by other vintage car owners.
Oh, yes, and to stay on topic. The easiest and least expensive way to carry 2 FOBs and have no chance at all of any confusion is to just take the battery out of the "spare". As long as it isn't in the glove box slot the car can't possibly see it. Then, if your other FOB fails you just use the key to get in, retrieve the "spare", put it in the slot, and drive to the nearest Wal-Mart where they have a display of batteries that will work perfectly in your FOB. Using this method you also never have to worry about the battery in the spare going dead and leaking.
Last edited by FortMorganAl; 10-20-2019 at 07:44 AM.
#33
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I'm still around every day but I don't spend much time digging to the bottom of the list nor do I answer much because of all the misinformation being passed around.
As far as your Buick FOB is concerned, it might be easier to get something like this https://www.hobbytown.com/kraken-vek...kv7702/p652460 and replace the body with the one from your Buick. Notice these are on backorder because of the tremendous demand by other vintage car owners.
As far as your Buick FOB is concerned, it might be easier to get something like this https://www.hobbytown.com/kraken-vek...kv7702/p652460 and replace the body with the one from your Buick. Notice these are on backorder because of the tremendous demand by other vintage car owners.