BackInBlack05

"all those codes were there"? Riiiiiight. We just hand you back cars with a bunch of codes showing and don't inform you..

Dutch08

Since you seem to be way more than a pretty good mechanic, I would not go back the dealer based on my experiences with problems like this. Take the fuse box apart and look for bent connections, look at the area they messed with, clean and reconnect everything especially the grounds. You don't need a TECH II since the dealer did that part, but if not they are about $300 on line and now you can do your own programming.

I have a 05 MN6, and electrically it is the fussiest car I've ever worked on, but with a little cleaning, resetting, making sure everything is tight I've managed to fix my electrical problems.

rabrooks

IT sounds like to possible things to me.
1 is there is a loose ground or there was a loose ground when the reprogramming was going on. Check around they're work to see if you can find loose wires.
2 is going to sound strange but I have seen it happen. That's a bad TPS. Sounds crazy but it causes all sorts of codes. Maybe one of your sensors went bad while the repair was going on or since the repair. A bad sensor can still show tire pressure but it wont change as it should as tire pressure builds under normal driving conditions. Or it can show bad by trying to read tire pressures and seeing XX where the pressure reading should be.
Good Luck
Roger

carsnpars

I took the fuse box apart, replaced the wire that was NOT broken from the other thread, worked the first time BUT then not after that. Relay? Ground? Go to dealer? SUCKS

joliett

Really check the battery!

87-Rocket

Its been awhile........but I figured I would follow up for the benefit of the Forum Membership. Right after posting my problem with my 05, the cable on my 4 post lift broke and I got disgusted so the car has sat for a good while. The biggest problem on my laundry list was the reverse lock out solenoid since I could no longer get the car shifted into reverse to restart the engine. I finally got back on the research to see if I could find an answer to my problem. One of the things I noticed when the problem popped up with shifting to reverse was how sloppy the shifter had become. I figured that I had broken or bent something in the linkage trying to muscle the car into reverse. When I started looking at pictures of the shifter assembly, I observed that the shifter box on the non-Z06 models is mounted with rubber grommets. When I started looking into this, I learned that apparently this is a problem area. As these C6 cars age, the grommets eventually dry rot and can result in problems with shifter engagement. The fix is to replace the grommets with some new ones that are readily available online or replace the shifter box with an aftermarket unit. I already have a MGW short throw shifter so I decided to try to get my hands on one of their billet shifter boxes. After talking with their tech guy, I learned that not only are the rubber grommets an issue but the bolt that secures the transmission linkage to the shifter box shaft is prone to loosening and should be cranked down pretty tight when installing the new box. When he told me this a light bulb went off in my head.........I had just finished installing a new Mantic clutch about a month prior to having the problem with shifting to reverse. The bolt that secures the transmission linkage to the shifter box shaft actually engages a notch cut into the shifter box shaft, I had to disassemble these parts during the installation of the clutch. When I put them back together I wrongly assumed that as long as the bolt engaged the notch in the shaft then there wouldn't be any issues. Well, I tore into the center console this afternoon and found that the shifter box shaft had significant lateral rotation even though the bolt was properly engage with the notch in the shaft. The MGW tech was right, you have to engage the notch in the shifter box shaft AND tighten it down to get significant clamping force. This immediately fixed my shifting to reverse problem and the car started right up. So, if you are having issues with shifting to reverse (or any gear for that matter) check your shifter box grommets and the linkage bolt. Now if I can solve these problem codes, I will be good to go.

Dutch08

Here's a guess .... when the computer was reprogrammed did the technician did he download the correct version for the somewhat unique 2005 ECM? Are you throwing any codes? Any Tech2 Diagnostics showing up?

I'm a DIY type also and try to do 100% of my own work.

87-Rocket

Dutch08 - After the dealership had their hands on the car, it was throwing all kinds of error codes which were not there before. I had a message indicating "service active handling/traction control" on the Driver Information Center. I also had a check engine light on with a code for the throttle position sensor and mass air flow sensor. I took it home and reset the system via a battery disconnect, which didn't seem to fix the problem. Now that I have the car running again, I can work on getting these codes sorted out. I have purchased a new fuse block that I will install Wednesday to see if maybe this problem is an electrical rather than programming issue. If it's not electrical, I intend to have the car retuned since the dealership may have screwed up some of the custom parameters and then go from there.

Dutch08

Since you are a DIY type, you have my respect. I personally feel that half the fun of owning a sports car is working on it.

Trying to figure out a modern car is difficult, to say the least, w/o factory support. Please keep us informed so we can help others. If I can help in any way please don't hesitate. If I am wrong, again, please don't hesitate to tell me.

IMHO, since the problems appeared after the Dealer Service, they should fix the problem.

87-Rocket

Thanks for the positive feedback, Dutch08. I agree with you on your assessment of owning a sports car. Too much water under the bridge at this point to take the issue up with the dealership. I will let you know how it turns out.