nb8822

Hi Everyone, I have a C6 with a built engine. GM LSX bowtie block, Vortech supercharger, Methanol injection. I'm having a problem with a collapsed lifter and the potential metal contaminants that it might have created. I've identified the individual valve and have pulled the rocker arm and pushrod to examine for damage. Also had to remove the unit next to it when I removed the rocker shaft, so had a good pushrod and rocker for comparison. Can't see any damage to either. Tomorrow I'm going to start the process of removing the intake manifold and cover plate to access the lifters. I'm anticipating that it is damaged and perhaps the cam too. I do plan to drain the oil from the oil pan into a container with a filter so any loose material will be caught and also remove both the pan and pick up tube to do a visual inspection. This may be a little premature, but if the lifter roller and/or the camshaft surface have metal missing, is there a way to flush the oiling system of these particles? Of course other than completely disassembling the engine. Your thoughts and experiences and recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

RAVEN007

Duct tape a circular magnet on the end of your oil filter to catch free floating metal particles in your oil filter.

Dano523

That much crap in the oil system, would pull the stripped down block to have it tank cleaned, and replace the oil lines and coolers as well.

Hence, even the block has some Ring type seal plugs, and if they have collected any scraps, can break away to end up back in the oil system. As for trying to trap such at the filter, the problem with this is they are in the engine past the filter, and can be pushed through the engine before even finding their way back to the pan. Worse yet, they will be pushed through the oil pump before the filter, and all it takes is one sliver to cause the bypass valve to stick open, to lose all oil pressure as well.

nb8822

Thanks for the response. Reason I'm asking for help is because I have limited knowledge, experience, tools and facilities to do such an involved repair. Had already done some research about the issue and was hoping that any large particles would be confined to the oil pan because of the pick up screen and anything in the smaller range would be processed through and be captured in the oil filter. If that's the order of flow? So pulling the oil pan, cleaning it and the pick up screen would clear the large particles and also changing the oil filter would solve the issue. The area I'm most concerned about is the crankcase cavity where there may be particles lodged in cavities. Saw a Melling video that showed a process of charging the oil system on a dry engine and was wondering if I used this process to circulate clean oil it would possible clear any small contaminants in the crankcase cavity. This, of course, assumes that the cam lobe is not damaged. If it is, that changes everything. If I have to pull the entire front of the engine off, then going the rest of the way would make sense. Should know that today. One other thing about today's process is disconnecting the fuel line before removing the intake manifold. I can't find a relief valve to depressurize the fuel system. It's an aftermarket system with pressure regulator, any thoughts?

Dano523

LS barbell, and has the O ring on the side after the oil pump that could have slivers trapped in it for a while. Plus you can get blow by past the front of the barbell to by pass the filter as well.


Then, even a sliver even the size of a pin head is all that is need to bind the oil pump pressure relief valve open.

So again, block need to be torn down, all the components removed from it to open all the passages, hot tank cleaned and blow out, and pretty much all the coolers and oil lines need to be replaced. Trust me, you leave one sliver of metal someone with it not removed, and it going to cause problems down the road.

Hell, once of the lads not too long ago here, posted that his engine was on it third set of lifters, since the Dealer that rebuilt his engine the first time around, used the old oil lines and coolers during the inital rebuild, and the crap is it was an only matter of time until is free'd to end up back in the engine. Hence oil filter is not going to catch everything, and you can have problems before the slivers even make it to the filter as well.

nb8822

There's a lot more to it that I am not familiar with! Did you happen to see my question about disconnecting the fuel supply so I can pull the intake manifold. If the schrader valve was eliminated when the new fuel rails were installed, can I just remove the flexible supply lines, slowly, to relieve the pressure?

Dano523

Yes, you can use a fuel line tool and remove the fuel line with a towel around the coupler to catch the excess fuel as it leaks out from not pre-bleeding the pressure off first.

nb8822

The supply lines are braided stainless steel with AN fittings. There are separate lines to each fuel rail, so I would just remove them?

Dano523

Yes, but the fact that you have to ask the question on threaded fittings, makes me wonder if your over your head in the first place.

nb8822

Oh, I'm definitely over my head. As I said earlier, I have limited knowledge and experience. Even though I'm limited, I have a good general knowledge of cars. I'm also retired, so I have lots of time to do research. As far as the fuel rail issue is concerned, I've disconnected OEM rails but not an aftermarket system. Just didn't want to start wrenching before I at least checked with more knowledgeable people, in case maybe it was standard to install a shutoff valve in all systems and I wasn't looking hard enough, etc.

4SUMERZ

Good suggestions from the members. The engine needs to be completely stripped down and properly cleaned and checked by an engine rebuilding place. They have large super heated parts washer or hot tanks to be assured that there are no metal particles hiding anywhere.
You can pay now to have it done properly, or pay much more later if you try to do it by cutting corners.

Good luck

Ahrmike

While Dano may be right, it depends on if the full teardown and rebuild is worth the engine cost to begin with. I had a valve keeper fall down another engine in the past - didnt realize it at the time, thought it flew across my garage - so I just put everything back together. Two oil changes later, I found the keeper on my magnetic drain plug. Car ran another 4 years no issues until I sold her.

Guess it depends if you want to gamble on it or not.

S.C. vette