When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Need help to find out what's wrong with my ac on my c6 z06. It only blows cold when driving it on street and freeway but when you go to a stop it starts to blow hot you start moving it blows cold. I already put new freon did not fix it. Live in AZ so it gets hot. It's a h/c/i with a vararam intake if that helps. Who can help me out.
The heat exchanger coil for the A/C system is in front of the radiator.
If the problem is just when you are stopped, then there is not enough air moving over the heat exchanger to start with.
So step one, start the car, and turn the A/C on and off (third button from the left on the HVAC air controller) and make sure that the radiator fan is coming on when you turn the a/c on and the motor idling, and the raditor fan shuts off when the turn the A/C off.
If it not, then you need to check the raditor fan connector on the back side of the raditor on the passenger side to make sure it not melted.
And pray that when you disconnect it to check it, it not melted,
If the connector is melted, then could be that the radiator fan motor bearings as going south, or someone tuned the car and has the Fan coming on too soon/to aggressive and why the connector melted isntead.
Next check the heater exchanger and the raditor for dirt/debris that may not be allowing a smooth flow of air through them. Hence not only the front of the heat exchanger coil, and the back side of the raditor, but between the two as well. if needed, it not hard to unbolt the heat exhanger to move it slightly forward without disconnecting the freon lines, so you can get a garden hose spray between the two to clean out any debris between the two.
Note, you can drive the car with the cover off so long as you don't push the motor, and this would allow you to take the car to a car wash to clean the system if you need more power than just a garden hose. Hence front side through the nose, back side of the raditor through the fan shroud openning, then you still have access to the middle of the two to power wash there as well. Also, don't use brushes since you can damage the coils by being them, so just water pressure and maybe a vacuum alone.
If you find that one of your pressure between the high and low is way out of spec on one side, then suspect that the orifice filter is clogged up, and will need to be replaced.
Note, if the filter is clogged, then the Freon will need to be reclaimed to remove the pressure from the line, the filter in line replaced, then system vacuum to remove any humidly in it, then it can be recharged. If the system was left without a charge long enough at some point since it does have a leak, then the A/C Dryer Accumulator will need to be replaced as well.
As for why the charts and pressures, there is a high pressure switch in the system, and if the Freon gets too hot/ expands too much to cause higher than normal pressure, then A/C will kick off so you don't blow a line for the pressure being too high in the lines instead.
Short of the above, and maybe a bad controller or interior temp sensor not in place, the only other thing that comes to mind is an under drive pulley on the car that is not spinning the compressor fast enough at idle, or a compressor clutch that is going out instead.
As for the interior temp sensor, look at the slots to the left of the start button with a flash light, and make sure you can see a little blue round thing.
Hence when the dash bezel is removed and replaced, its easy for the sensor to pop off the back side of the bezel, and fall into the bowels of the dash instead.
When this happens, you get a reading from the inside the dash near the floor vents that are much colder, instead of the actual cabin temp. Read when the sensor is not in place in the bezel pulling actual cabin air to get the cabin temps, you will think that your going through menopause with the hot and cold wild'g of the system in both A/C and heat as well.
If you don't see the blue thing behind the slots, then you will need to pull the dash bezel to weed it out of the dash, and snap it back on the bezel, and re isntall the bezel (read it loves to fall off as you are snapping the bottom of the bezel in place).
Note the sensor has a fan on it to pull air across the sensor, so if you do have to get in the dash to put it back in the bezel, good time to clean its fan parts to is make less noisy as the fan is spinning in it.
First thing would be to check for reduced airflow across the condenser. Look at the front grill area and see if there is any leaves or debris to clear off.
Also make sure the radiator cooling fan is operating properly. It is a variable speed based on sensor inputs. If it is hot and AC is on, the fan should be roaring like a freight train.
If you have recently replaced the refrigerant, I would suspect that is has been overfilled. When you have too much, the pressure will get too high and trigger a safety switch that will basically do what you describe.
If you have recently replaced the refrigerant, I would suspect that is has been overfilled. When you have too much, the pressure will get too high and trigger a safety switch that will basically do what you describe.
DF
it did that even before I put new freon on it. It was low thought it would of fixed it but still doing same thing
The heat exchanger coil for the A/C system is in front of the radiator.
If the problem is just when you are stopped, then there is not enough air moving over the heat exchanger to start with.
So step one, start the car, and turn the A/C on and off (third button from the left on the HVAC air controller) and make sure that the radiator fan is coming on when you turn the a/c on and the motor idling, and the raditor fan shuts off when the turn the A/C off.
If it not, then you need to check the raditor fan connector on the back side of the raditor on the passenger side to make sure it not melted.
And pray that when you disconnect it to check it, it not melted,
If the connector is melted, then could be that the radiator fan motor bearings as going south, or someone tuned the car and has the Fan coming on too soon/to aggressive and why the connector melted isntead.
Next check the heater exchanger and the raditor for dirt/debris that may not be allowing a smooth flow of air through them. Hence not only the front of the heat exchanger coil, and the back side of the raditor, but between the two as well. if needed, it not hard to unbolt the heat exhanger to move it slightly forward without disconnecting the freon lines, so you can get a garden hose spray between the two to clean out any debris between the two.
Note, you can drive the car with the cover off so long as you don't push the motor, and this would allow you to take the car to a car wash to clean the system if you need more power than just a garden hose. Hence front side through the nose, back side of the raditor through the fan shroud openning, then you still have access to the middle of the two to power wash there as well. Also, don't use brushes since you can damage the coils by being them, so just water pressure and maybe a vacuum alone.
If you find that one of your pressure between the high and low is way out of spec on one side, then suspect that the orifice filter is clogged up, and will need to be replaced.
Note, if the filter is clogged, then the Freon will need to be reclaimed to remove the pressure from the line, the filter in line replaced, then system vacuum to remove any humidly in it, then it can be recharged. If the system was left without a charge long enough at some point since it does have a leak, then the A/C Dryer Accumulator will need to be replaced as well.
As for why the charts and pressures, there is a high pressure switch in the system, and if the Freon gets too hot/ expands too much to cause higher than normal pressure, then A/C will kick off so you don't blow a line for the pressure being too high in the lines instead.
Short of the above, and maybe a bad controller or interior temp sensor not in place, the only other thing that comes to mind is an under drive pulley on the car that is not spinning the compressor fast enough at idle, or a compressor clutch that is going out instead.
As for the interior temp sensor, look at the slots to the left of the start button with a flash light, and make sure you can see a little blue round thing.
Hence when the dash bezel is removed and replaced, its easy for the sensor to pop off the back side of the bezel, and fall into the bowels of the dash instead.
When this happens, you get a reading from the inside the dash near the floor vents that are much colder, instead of the actual cabin temp. Read when the sensor is not in place in the bezel pulling actual cabin air to get the cabin temps, you will think that your going through menopause with the hot and cold wild'g of the system in both A/C and heat as well.
If you don't see the blue thing behind the slots, then you will need to pull the dash bezel to weed it out of the dash, and snap it back on the bezel, and re isntall the bezel (read it loves to fall off as you are snapping the bottom of the bezel in place).
Note the sensor has a fan on it to pull air across the sensor, so if you do have to get in the dash to put it back in the bezel, good time to clean its fan parts to is make less noisy as the fan is spinning in it.
The heat exchanger coil for the A/C system is in front of the radiator.
If the problem is just when you are stopped, then there is not enough air moving over the heat exchanger to start with.
So step one, start the car, and turn the A/C on and off (third button from the left on the HVAC air controller) and make sure that the radiator fan is coming on when you turn the a/c on and the motor idling, and the raditor fan shuts off when the turn the A/C off.
If it not, then you need to check the raditor fan connector on the back side of the raditor on the passenger side to make sure it not melted.
Red dot in on the connector,
And pray that when you disconnect it to check it, it not melted,
If the connector is melted, then could be that the radiator fan motor bearings as going south, or someone tuned the car and has the Fan coming on too soon/to aggressive and why the connector melted isntead.
Next check the heater exchanger and the raditor for dirt/debris that may not be allowing a smooth flow of air through them. Hence not only the front of the heat exchanger coil, and the back side of the raditor, but between the two as well. if needed, it not hard to unbolt the heat exhanger to move it slightly forward without disconnecting the freon lines, so you can get a garden hose spray between the two to clean out any debris between the two.
Note, you can drive the car with the cover off so long as you don't push the motor, and this would allow you to take the car to a car wash to clean the system if you need more power than just a garden hose. Hence front side through the nose, back side of the raditor through the fan shroud openning, then you still have access to the middle of the two to power wash there as well. Also, don't use brushes since you can damage the coils by being them, so just water pressure and maybe a vacuum alone. https://youtu.be/ISeovlqQKAA
If you find that one of your pressure between the high and low is way out of spec on one side, then suspect that the orifice filter is clogged up, and will need to be replaced.
Note, if the filter is clogged, then the Freon will need to be reclaimed to remove the pressure from the line, the filter in line replaced, then system vacuum to remove any humidly in it, then it can be recharged. If the system was left without a charge long enough at some point since it does have a leak, then the A/C Dryer Accumulator will need to be replaced as well.
As for why the charts and pressures, there is a high pressure switch in the system, and if the Freon gets too hot/ expands too much to cause higher than normal pressure, then A/C will kick off so you don't blow a line for the pressure being too high in the lines instead.
Short of the above, and maybe a bad controller or interior temp sensor not in place, the only other thing that comes to mind is an under drive pulley on the car that is not spinning the compressor fast enough at idle, or a compressor clutch that is going out instead.
As for the interior temp sensor, look at the slots to the left of the start button with a flash light, and make sure you can see a little blue round thing.
Hence when the dash bezel is removed and replaced, its easy for the sensor to pop off the back side of the bezel, and fall into the bowels of the dash instead.
When this happens, you get a reading from the inside the dash near the floor vents that are much colder, instead of the actual cabin temp. Read when the sensor is not in place in the bezel pulling actual cabin air to get the cabin temps, you will think that your going through menopause with the hot and cold wild'g of the system in both A/C and heat as well.
If you don't see the blue thing behind the slots, then you will need to pull the dash bezel to weed it out of the dash, and snap it back on the bezel, and re isntall the bezel (read it loves to fall off as you are snapping the bottom of the bezel in place).
Note the sensor has a fan on it to pull air across the sensor, so if you do have to get in the dash to put it back in the bezel, good time to clean its fan parts to is make less noisy as the fan is spinning in it.
07-26-2018, 12:12 AM
Ac blows hot ***help****
