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Hello.
i have a 06 A6 Avant Quattro that is having the put into Park message pop up every time I shut car off. key won't come out ignition if used so I operate using the push start & stop button. I've been finding the battery has been drained if car hasn't been moved in a day due to not being completely locked. Look up what possibly can this be and have come to the conclusion that it is the shift interlock connector needs to be replaced. Has anyone done this replacement or aware of a video/ photos of how to remove and replace? I stumbled across one but haven't been able to find it again, thank you for reading and replies in advance but looking for photos /videos and or information specifically on changing shift lock microswitchs/ shift interlock harness. Message received when Park audi part that needs replaced
Hello.
i have a 06 A6 Avant Quattro that is having the put into Park message pop up every time I shut car off. key won't come out ignition if used so I operate using the push start & stop button. I've been finding the battery has been drained if car hasn't been moved in a day due to not being completely locked. Look up what possibly can this be and have come to the conclusion that it is the shift interlock connector needs to be replaced. Has anyone done this replacement or aware of a video/ photos of how to remove and replace? I stumbled across one but haven't been able to find it again, thank you for reading and replies in advance but looking for photos /videos and or information specifically on changing shift lock microswitchs/ shift interlock harness.
Lots of good advice and help on this forum for Corvettes, not so much for Audis. You'd have much better luck posting this on an Audi forum.
I had the "Shift to Park" message when I was in Park a few years ago. Pushing the gear shift lever forward did not solve my problem. A needle nose pliers and a SLIGHT bend of the lower micro switch did. All has been aok for years now.
I have a 2005 with the A4 automatic transmission and have the problem with shifting out of park. Does anyone know if the part #SS-5GL13 switch used to repair the A6 automatic will work to fix it. I did the what in the world is going here stuck in a parking lot the first time and almost started to kill the shifter but it finally shifted. It's done it a few more times and is time to fix it.
My Corvette likes my money
Looks like the 05 A4 transmission has two switches and in the picture here that I came across it looks the same as the switch in the A6. Does the A6 transmission have two switches like in the A4 picture?
My 2008 A6 has 2 switches that look identical to yours. However mine are located differently - one below the other in the front most position.
I have a schematic that refers to them as "Park Switch" & "Automatic Transmission Shift Lock Control Solenoid". Like yours, both are controlled by the Automatic Transmission Shift Lever.
Hi Folks,
So, I've had my console apart 3 or 4 times.
I've added a piece of foam to the shifter shaft. I've bent the solenoid pin a bit.
Last year, I tied a piece of wire to the pawl and pull on it every time I want to shift out of park.
I went ahead and ordered a switch to replace the current one, but am a bit intimidated.
There are numerous videos and tutorials on removing the console, but I haven't seen a video on replacing the switch.
Is it as easy as removing the 4 bolts and lifting the shifter mechanism out of the way?
How is the solenoid held in place? I see there are a couple of larger holes on each end. Do they slide over small posts?
I got as far as removing the shifter boot w/o removing the handle which wouldn't budge no matter how I twisted beneath it.
I was going to drill and attach a wire with an extension into the center console but couldn't figure out how to remove the
plastic surround with thick rubber gasket. I used some welding wire and looped it around the shift lock and secured it back permanently.
It's nice knowing I'll never have to guess if the car will be stuck in park again and hope that some aggressive pushing and swearing will get it to release.
Further C6 2007 50,000 miles Convertible experience
I find that if I can’t shift out of Park, I step off then on the brake, listen for a small click near the shift handle. If I don’t hear the click, I push the shift **** forward, applying steady but not huge force, and step off then on the brake again. This has always worked, finally. Also, I find that vehicle use helps, garaged in NC
I find that if I can’t shift out of Park, I step off then on the brake, listen for a small click near the shift handle. If I don’t hear the click, I push the shift **** forward, applying steady but not huge force, and step off then on the brake again. This has always worked, finally. Also, I find that vehicle use helps, garaged in NC
Again, if you understand the problem, you will realize that it will eventually fail. ABSOLUTELY.
It may take 200,000 miles to to do so, but it will eventually fail. Garaged kept has no bearing, whatsoever. but it will eventually fail. I thought I was immune at 200,000 miles, but not.
So what exactly is the problem? Why does the solenoid not work consistently? Bad internal mechanical tolerance? Poor alignment of rod in coil form? Insufficient ampere turns in the coil? Bad contact on brake light switch that doesn’t allow full current flow? Bad connector on solenoid or brake light switch?
I didn’t realize they used the Microswitch to interrupt the solenoid current, that was the error in electrical engineering design. Even though the BCM monitors the circuit, there is not enough current to begin to wear out contacts. But interrupting the current of the coil, that is the kiss of death for just about any switch contact. Industrial design standards put a reverse biased diode across the dc coil to clamp the reverse EMF generated that the coil generates, doubling the voltage across the switch contacts. Another common fix is to place two switches in series to improve the dc interrupting rating. Or a capacitor-resistor (RC) network can also be used to reduce the spark as the contacts separate. The correct way to do this was to have the BCM turn off the power to the coil, using a solid state output, or know that a surge suppressor needed to be added. To expect a common microswitch to interrupt solenoid current even 5000 times is insane. To specify the right microswitch, you need to state the dc interrupting rating, which is basically set by the coil current/resistance, and then look for 100,000 operations or more. Ac interrupting ratings are typically 10 times higher than dc.
I don’t have the coil resistance, or we could get the required interrupting rating, and specify a better rated switch. I may try a small diode on the coil, like 1N914, next time I have it opened up.
Are you gonna be able to buy and replace this micro switch part? And if so what is the exact part no. or name of this micro switch And where can you order this from? Thanks.
Has anyone been successful only removing the boot and being able to replace it?
If so, this would be the easiest way to get to the microswitch and bend the arm or add a shim.
For those who have replaced the microswitch, could it be done with only the boot removed or do you need to completely remove the top of the console or possibly tip it up as described up thread?
Hi Monts,
I replaced the microswitch in my 05.
To replace it, I disconnected everything connected to the console and completely removed the console.
It can't be swapped out by just removing the boot.
I have a spare switch I can send to you if you'd like.
Just send me your mailing address.
01-18-2020, 06:38 AM
Please Help!!!😣
