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The SS-5GL13-3 is a rwo terminal normally open. The SS-5GL13 is a three terminal so it can be used as normally open or normally closed switch. The OE switch is a two wire normally open.
I personally don't know. And I would have to disagree with some comments made on this thread about removing the console on the C6. It took me only 10-15 min so it wasn't hard. So if you want to remove your C7 console and check what switch you have, I can take a photo of my switch and see if it's the same.
FYI, I just got in the mail 2 switches yesterday so this Saturday I will be soldering them hopefully.
In case I never mentioned, I have a 2013 Grand Sport A6 (with modifications).
Yes removing the C6 console is easy. The only tricky part is getting the 6 or 7 connectors off, and then back on. There are many videos on this. Here is one for a M6, but very similar for an A6:
I was able to get most the plugs unplugged to remove the console. The rear lighter plug was a bitc*.
The release is on the top of the plug and this plug only has maybe 3/4" between the top of the plug and the underside of the console.
After pulling my hair I cut the wires. This way I could get the console where I could see what was going on.
Exactly WHAT GM engineering was thinking I don't know . They had three other positions the plug could have been indexed to. Then one could have accessed the release.
As shown the release is up against the console, Impossibe to see or access.
After cutting the wires, I finally got the plug out using a bent end of a needle nose pliers. Then I added a foot of wiring to the plug so, if it needed to be pulled again, it could be moved aside.
I included a picture of the plug showing the plug lock location. It can''t be rotated as it is indexed into the console.
I ended up replacing the micro-switch and this fixed my "Getting out of Park" issue.
The switch was never a separate part and the shifter has been discontinued.
Not sure I should post this in a new thread but after I replaced the micro switch and closed the console back, I now have another issue that appeared only after I put everything back together.
The issue is that to go from Drive to Reverse, I first have to go to Park (and then to Reverse), which I'm sure wasn't the case before I took apart the center console. Did I forget to do something? Or this is the intended behavior?
Issue #2
So the micro switch for me solved the no-starting issue. But yet I have another kinda issue where once I put it to park, the car is still in reverse. To fully engage the parking cable, I have to make sure I push the shifter **** all the way forward. This isn't a big deal but wondering if this issue can be resolved as well by doing something. From what I read on this 12 page thread, the solution is to put a padding or plastic shim of foam on the shifter lever where it contacts the switch. Right?
In my experience it's typically the nylon ends that degenerates. I would inspect both ends.
Oh crap. Looks like you have experience with this. I will leave it like this for the summer I think. So one end is on the shifter assembly and one end is on the transmission I'm guessing.
Nylon bushings connect one end of the shift cable to the shift lever, the other end to the tranny:
Dorman bushing kit 14041 and Dorman 14055 Shift Linkage Bushing.
M.....
Mike,
Quick question. I'm guessing you have installed these in your car before? I ask because the Dorman part numbers says that they don't fit my car, even though they look generic enough. See my below 2 screenshots.
I haven't installed them as I don't have a problem yet. I bought both the kits because I wasn't sure which ones I will need. Between both kits, you will have what you need even though Amazon says they won't fit.
I keep them in the hatch cubby hole in case I have a problem away from home. If the one connected to the shift lever breaks, moving the shift lever will do nothing.
Thanks for posting that info. I wondered if the switches themselves were going bad, possibly due to burned internal contacts or just wear. It sounds like this may be what is going on. I'll keep an eye on mine and if they act up again, I'll replace them like you did.
My simple fix: zip-tie each micro switch to the “closed” position. Then put the switches back on their mounting posts. Put your console back together and enjoy! Small zip-ties on each switch. This worked for me.
I came up with this idea and it worked fine for me.
I used a Bic pen tube and cut it to size(length), with the pawl pulled all the way back. Then sliced the full length open,
so I could slip it over the rod. Then for safe keeping, I put a tie on it.
The pencil is pointing at the Bic pen tube and tie. I cut the long tie end off after the shot was taken.
This way nothing is drilled, wired or cut off and when removed is in stock condition.
I plan on doing a post on the whole job in a bit. Hope this helps.
01-04-2022, 09:37 PM
