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How difficult to replace the micro switch? after removing the console, I have a 2008 AT and not being able to shift out of Park is a intermittent problem. I would like to fix the problem w/o a work around.
I don't know if your 2008 AT is exactly the same as my 2006 AT, but the micro switch is easily removed (held in by two clips) once you take off the shifter cover assembly (locking tabs at the front and rear of the cover) to expose the micro switch. Be careful not to break off the sliding positional tab (shows which gear you are in) when removing and reinstalling the shifter cover. You will probably need to cut the original micro switch wiring and add pigtails to the new micro switch due to the lack of adequate slack in the micro switch wiring. I haven't had a issue with the park locking problem since replacing the micro switch. However, I did add the suggested release cable to the pawl assembly in case the micro switch fails. I didn't want to loose the safety feature of the pawn by simply cutting it, so the cable is just a back up if the problem reoccurs.
Reindeerdad is on target. You will need some basic soldering skills, but the job overall is pretty easy. I have a 2008 and was able to cut the wires close to the old switch and had enough slack in the wire to reach the new switch. Been working 100% ever since.
There are 2 micro side by side switches that affect the "shift to park" message - at least in my '08.
In my case, one of the micro switch levers had to be slightly bent to make the proper contact so that it would switch on. I never had to replace it. Listen carefully in a quiet environment and you can hear first one, then the other click.
Generally if a micro switch clicks off/on it's working, although it would be possible that the internal contacts are faulty. You can try doing a resistance check with a multimeter - should be 0 ohms when closed.
M...
Last edited by Mike Green9; 06-12-2021 at 08:55 AM.
Reason: typo
Hey all, my car is a C6 and the articles refer to an A6. I am not sure if A6 applies to an 2007 C6 automatic. I can shift under most circumstances but sometimes the car will not shift TO reverse or park. Car has 53K miles on it.
What does A6 mean please? Do not want to assume it means automatic (A) C6.
As another stated A6 refers to an automatic. I never had the problem shifting INTO park, only trying to get out of park. The fix for me was the microswitch sensing if the stick was in the Park position.
That might be the mechanical interlock that lifts when you squeeze the shift button. I squirted some WD-40 down the tube behind the button after carefully lifting off the metal cover straight up.
Did that fix your problem? Mine only fails when the car is hot, . It will not come out of park even when it is the acc mode, When the car is cold I cannot make it fail.
It definitely fixed it. From what I remember, the shift/brake lock solenoid power source comes through the microswitch that senses if the stick is in park. My switch would measure between 50-100 ohms across the closed contacts. Guess that was enough to limit the current to the solenoid preventing it from working. Replaced the switch and it's been perfect for over a year now. Prior it was intermittent. Usually seemed to fail more frequently when cold vs hot. I did find if I pushed the stick forward a bit in park that would sometimes get it to work when it was failing. If you have minimal skills and can solder, replacing the switch is not hard. Think I bought a pack of 10 switches and probably have the laying around somewhere if you need one.
Great thread - Thanks for teasing out what may be the root cause problem and sharing!
Last time I was in there I tied the pawl back and have been fine since. But if/when I am in there again - I might undo that solution and swap in a new switch.
If there's enough current going thru that switch to cause carbon build up and pitting - sounds like it's too much (at least for the OE switch) in the long run. Thinking out loud - perhaps the higher current could be routed thru a higher capacity relay and the micro switch used to just trigger the relay. Possibly the relay could be located in an accessible location under/behind the dash somewhere close to the shift console. ...just thinkin' out loud on this one is all...
I think the micro switch is seeing the reverse EMF from interrupting the current to the solenoid that pulls the pawl back. It is a pure inductive load, so a 24V reverse polarity voltage appears across the micro switch contacts when it opens. If you solder in a diode in parallel with the coil, reverse polarity(band to positive), the reverse EMF the coil generates will be conducted by the diode, reducing the interrupting duty on the switch. I think a fast switching small signal diode like 1N914 or 1N4148 rated for 200mA and 100V might give you good performance. That would be less work and perhaps a little more reliable. It’s possible that the relay coil inductance could be similar to the pawl solenoid, or even worse, so you could end up shooting yourself in the foot. Good idea, though!
I wasn't able to take it out of park at all anymore. Not even in accessory mode. I had two replacement micro-switches on hand and was ready to replace them but after getting the micro-switch out of the two clips that keep it down, I noticed that I can open it easily, so I popped it open and cleaned both contacts (fixed and mobile) with fine sandpaper and after that I sprayed some contacts cleaner. Works like new now!
Hey Peter,
I have all the info now to do this fix and understanding of the failure. I think one thing you missed to mention was if you needed to do the same to the 2nd switch? Because I'm thinking since I have it opened up like this, I might as well replace both, or I shouldn't?
Below is the picture you posted and you only replaced the switch with the red heat shrink on it. So basically my question is if you replaced the switch that is sitting right behind it, visible in your picture.
Hey Peter,
I have all the info now to do this fix and understanding of the failure. I think one thing you missed to mention was if you needed to do the same to the 2nd switch? Because I'm thinking since I have it opened up like this, I might as well replace both, or I shouldn't?
Below is the picture you posted and you only replaced the switch with the red heat shrink on it. So basically my question is if you replaced the switch that is sitting right behind it, visible in your picture.
Hi,
I only replaced the one switch as that was the problematic one.
Peter
06-11-2021, 12:28 PM
