Warped rotors.
02-15-2017, 02:24 PM
#23
Melting Slicks
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02-15-2017, 02:27 PM
#24
Melting Slicks
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02-15-2017, 02:36 PM
#25
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02-15-2017, 02:55 PM
#26
Melting Slicks
I assume that my '09 base car still has the original rotors on it. The car was only 26K miles old when I bought it two years ago. They are clearly not cross drilled or slotted and they've begun to show the signs typical of warping. The car comes to a stop now with a pronounced bump...bump...bump. I owned a '00 Z28 for sixteen years, from new, and that car was plagued with rotor warping as well. I replaced them at least three times because of excessive run out. Why can't Chevrolet design a set of brakes that don't regularly warp? This is frustrating. I've had lots of other cars with discs and never had this problem. Even my several GMC Safaris ('95, '98, '01, '04) with discs didn't have these problems. I thought that cross drilled rotors might be a solution but the experts say that they really don't perform that much better except in competitive driving environments where the car is being pushed to the edge of the envelope. Anyone else have these sort of problems with a DD or some advice on replacement rotors?
Drilled and slotted rotors will help because they will stay cooler to begin with. They also have a slight 'cheese grater' and 'cheese slicer' effect on the pad which gives a bit more bite. The biggest thing I have noticed going from standard to drilled/slotted is in the wet the water has a place to go (in the slots and holes)
02-15-2017, 03:14 PM
#27
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I may be in the minority but my 07 (original owner here) has 78k miles and I am still on the original pads/rotors with no pulsation whatsoever. I should also point out that I am no Sunday driver either with some braking done at good speeds.
But like someone pointed out it is a used car, change the rotors/pads and move on...
But like someone pointed out it is a used car, change the rotors/pads and move on...
I assume that my '09 base car still has the original rotors on it. The car was only 26K miles old when I bought it two years ago. They are clearly not cross drilled or slotted and they've begun to show the signs typical of warping. The car comes to a stop now with a pronounced bump...bump...bump. I owned a '00 Z28 for sixteen years, from new, and that car was plagued with rotor warping as well. I replaced them at least three times because of excessive run out. Why can't Chevrolet design a set of brakes that don't regularly warp? This is frustrating. I've had lots of other cars with discs and never had this problem. Even my several GMC Safaris ('95, '98, '01, '04) with discs didn't have these problems. I thought that cross drilled rotors might be a solution but the experts say that they really don't perform that much better except in competitive driving environments where the car is being pushed to the edge of the envelope. Anyone else have these sort of problems with a DD or some advice on replacement rotors?
02-15-2017, 04:21 PM
#28
Le Mans Master
You have gotten lots of valuable, helpful answers. Let us know what you decide to do.
Last edited by buckmeister2; 02-15-2017 at 04:21 PM.
02-15-2017, 07:24 PM
#29
Instructor
OMG. I wasn't going to comment anymore but to see in printing that the way you don't warp, which they don't, rotors is to NOT come to a complete stop but stop short and creep up. The pad sitting on the hot rotor causes the warping. There must be millions upon millions of vehicles on the road with this issue. Why doesn't the new car manufacturers tell their owners of this situation?
The LA driving test puts OE brake pads at temps between 400 to 700 degrees of normal freeway driving. They don't have any issues. If your new vehicle displayed DTV, pedal pulsation, then it was because you got them HOT. Like 1000 degrees hot. So hot that the pad material did not transfer on to the rotor evenly.
The OE guys are just shaking their heads.
The LA driving test puts OE brake pads at temps between 400 to 700 degrees of normal freeway driving. They don't have any issues. If your new vehicle displayed DTV, pedal pulsation, then it was because you got them HOT. Like 1000 degrees hot. So hot that the pad material did not transfer on to the rotor evenly.
The OE guys are just shaking their heads.
02-15-2017, 08:33 PM
#30
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by BC427
OMG. I wasn't going to comment anymore but to see in printing that the way you don't warp, which they don't, rotors is to NOT come to a complete stop but stop short and creep up. The pad sitting on the hot rotor causes the warping. There must be millions upon millions of vehicles on the road with this issue. Why doesn't the new car manufacturers tell their owners of this situation?
The LA driving test puts OE brake pads at temps between 400 to 700 degrees of normal freeway driving. They don't have any issues. If your new vehicle displayed DTV, pedal pulsation, then it was because you got them HOT. Like 1000 degrees hot. So hot that the pad material did not transfer on to the rotor evenly.
The OE guys are just shaking their heads.
The LA driving test puts OE brake pads at temps between 400 to 700 degrees of normal freeway driving. They don't have any issues. If your new vehicle displayed DTV, pedal pulsation, then it was because you got them HOT. Like 1000 degrees hot. So hot that the pad material did not transfer on to the rotor evenly.
The OE guys are just shaking their heads.
I had stock brakes on my truck for 60k, never had a problem. Went to EBC green SUV and went nuts with this issue. I would wet sand the rotors which would correct it and in 5k it was back. I got sick of it and went to Bendix titanium metallic II and never had an issue again. Anyone who didn't know better would have bet money the rotors were warped. You could actually see imprints of the pad on the rotor if you looked at the correct angle. None of the other pads stopped anything like the EBCs though.