Why would my vette be so skittish at high speeds?
#41
Wil Cooksey #256
30 psi cold is a guideline, not a rule. You drive on hot tires, not cold, and I have found that a pressure for street driving that workd is 35 psi after the tires warm up. So in the summer I run 30 psi cold, and winter I run 32 psi cold. They always warn up to around 35 psi year around.
Good luck
#42
My 08 w/Z51 also gets a little "loose" at higher speeds and watching this conversation has raised a few questions for me. The PFADT alignment does not state whether it's for a Z06, Z51 or base model. I have the sheet printed out and I'm going to get an alignment using the "street" settings this week. Do the PFADT settings change based on model for mostly street use?
Has any one watched the rear wheels toe in and out while the car is up on jackstands? (as in checking transmission fluid level)With the engine idling, letting the wheels roll in forward or reverse and stopping the wheels quickly, you can watch the toe setting move at least a half inch inward or outward, depending on which direction the tires are rolling when you stop them. You can imagine what the tires do at high speed.
Those thinking that higher tire pressures will cause an unstable feeling at hiway speeds, have you read the handbook? Have you been to a HPD school? They always want the pressures increased from the recommended settings on the tire pressure label.
Has any one watched the rear wheels toe in and out while the car is up on jackstands? (as in checking transmission fluid level)With the engine idling, letting the wheels roll in forward or reverse and stopping the wheels quickly, you can watch the toe setting move at least a half inch inward or outward, depending on which direction the tires are rolling when you stop them. You can imagine what the tires do at high speed.
Those thinking that higher tire pressures will cause an unstable feeling at hiway speeds, have you read the handbook? Have you been to a HPD school? They always want the pressures increased from the recommended settings on the tire pressure label.
#43
Melting Slicks
DO NOT SET THEM TO MAX. When I am on the track I see speeds over 150. Tire pressure is very important at high speeds. A friend of mine, with GY Runflats, set his pressure in the morning and never checked it, until he slid off the track at a high rate of speed. With the GY's you do not want to see in escess of 36 psi, or the tires lose grip. I check my tires before each session, when they are hot,, and decrease the pressure to 32 front and 33 rear.
30 psi cold is a guideline, not a rule. You drive on hot tires, not cold, and I have found that a pressure for street driving that workd is 35 psi after the tires warm up. So in the summer I run 30 psi cold, and winter I run 32 psi cold. They always warn up to around 35 psi year around.
Good luck
30 psi cold is a guideline, not a rule. You drive on hot tires, not cold, and I have found that a pressure for street driving that workd is 35 psi after the tires warm up. So in the summer I run 30 psi cold, and winter I run 32 psi cold. They always warn up to around 35 psi year around.
Good luck
I'll keep that in mind when I go on the track.
#44
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
#45
Melting Slicks
I would think that your toe would favor being in the negative range, then what's listed here.
Here's what PFADT recommends for various driving conditions.
Here's what PFADT recommends for various driving conditions.
Last edited by extrapilot; 03-25-2016 at 03:29 PM.
#46
Melting Slicks
Mine is fine even at 100 but up new 120 to 130 it just doesn't feel good, haha. Ya know one thing i noticed was that to me I feel like the steering it too light at those high speeds. I know my bmw will get very stiff steering at high speed. I think that helps keep the car "or the driver" from moving the steering wheel at those speeds. I thought the corvette was supposed to do the same thing with the steering but I don't know for sure
I believe that the steering should feel tighter with speed. I wondering if there's a problem in the steering rack, or signal to the rack to change the effect. Something to consider.
Last edited by extrapilot; 03-25-2016 at 03:40 PM.
#47
Burning Brakes
I had the same issues you mention with my original F1 Supercar's. I was following every damn rut in the road, no matter how minuscule. The alignment was set to factory specs which was just not suitable. I printed off PFADT's specs and went to my Corvette pro shop, http://www.corvettecenter-ct.com, and my problem was cured. I now run Michelin Pilot Super Sport's to the PFADT specs and they are perfect. I've doubled the speed limit (plus) with zero issues.
#48
Melting Slicks
I had the same issues you mention with my original F1 Supercar's. I was following every damn rut in the road, no matter how minuscule. The alignment was set to factory specs which was just not suitable. I printed off PFADT's specs and went to my Corvette pro shop, http://www.corvettecenter-ct.com, and my problem was cured. I now run Michelin Pilot Super Sport's to the PFADT specs and they are perfect. I've doubled the speed limit (plus) with zero issues.
It seems he needs to run more negative camber and more toe, looking at PFADT's specs, which will improve the handling all around.
#49
Melting Slicks
Yeah.. lose the Goodyears if you want the car to handle at speed. Yes, could be pressure, yes could be shocks, but I'm betting on the rock hard tires with rigid side walls. My 07 Z51 car is a track monster, stable as a rock and putting on the track tires actually makes it squirley on the highway (over lane seems and expansion joints) but sticks like glue on a track. With my Nito INVO on the street she's a dream. Quiet smooth and great street grip. Tires and alignment make ALL the difference.
#50
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I had the same issues you mention with my original F1 Supercar's. I was following every damn rut in the road, no matter how minuscule. The alignment was set to factory specs which was just not suitable. I printed off PFADT's specs and went to my Corvette pro shop, http://www.corvettecenter-ct.com, and my problem was cured. I now run Michelin Pilot Super Sport's to the PFADT specs and they are perfect. I've doubled the speed limit (plus) with zero issues.
#51
Race Director
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I had the same issues you mention with my original F1 Supercar's. I was following every damn rut in the road, no matter how minuscule. The alignment was set to factory specs which was just not suitable. I printed off PFADT's specs and went to my Corvette pro shop, http://www.corvettecenter-ct.com, and my problem was cured. I now run Michelin Pilot Super Sport's to the PFADT specs and they are perfect. I've doubled the speed limit (plus) with zero issues.
#52
Le Mans Master
#55
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I think you are off base here. I agree the issue is alignment, not necessarily "dealer alignment". Most dealers (or front end shops, for that matter) will align a Z51 equipped car to Z51 specs unless told otherwise.
The OP needs to take something like pfadt alignment specs to a quality shop, with quality equipment, with a quality reputation and tell them "this is exactly what I want". Period.
The OP needs to take something like pfadt alignment specs to a quality shop, with quality equipment, with a quality reputation and tell them "this is exactly what I want". Period.
#56
Melting Slicks
I'm thinking that the toe in your case has more to do with the issues your experiencing. You should compare the two before specs to check if they fall in line with each other.
Also keep in mind that the alignment equipment needs to be in calibration and it's possible your car was last setup with a machine not in cal. Just another variably....
Last edited by extrapilot; 03-31-2016 at 08:33 AM.
#57
any updates??? im facing this on my ZR1.... bought it back over the winter so didnt have much time to play with the OEM run flats but i know i got on it and it was definitely stable on those tires... switched to MT DRs in the rear and now im all over the road under WOT... hooks great though! some are blaming it on "softer sidewall" but i will not go by that as ive owned MANY and still do other cars like camaros all with even more side wall and the same tires and those "lower class" cars felt wayyy more stable at speed! matter of fact i feel way safer in my 2002 camaro on the same DRs but 18" version going 160+....car is glued and goes straight! my world class handling ZR1 feels like a death wish under WOT!
#58
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
any updates??? im facing this on my ZR1.... bought it back over the winter so didnt have much time to play with the OEM run flats but i know i got on it and it was definitely stable on those tires... switched to MT DRs in the rear and now im all over the road under WOT... hooks great though! some are blaming it on "softer sidewall" but i will not go by that as ive owned MANY and still do other cars like camaros all with even more side wall and the same tires and those "lower class" cars felt wayyy more stable at speed! matter of fact i feel way safer in my 2002 camaro on the same DRs but 18" version going 160+....car is glued and goes straight! my world class handling ZR1 feels like a death wish under WOT!
#60
Le Mans Master
The wider tires will tramline more. It appeared that on alignment spec that you showed us that front and rear were toed out. I would think that would make the car feel unstable. I was trying to remember the toe specs on the formula cars we were running and it I think we ran toe out on the front and toe in on the rear. The caster looks ok and I don't think that camber is going to make much if any difference for this problem. My 2011 GS has the Goodyears on it and at 160 and about 34 lbs (hot)it felt fine.