t&t moyer

After setting all winter my wife moved the car and noticed a little oil spot on the garage floor. She described to be where it was and I told her it's most likely the clutch master cylinder leaking a little. She stopped by our local Chevy dealer with the information and they won't help her regarding the #14717 warranty extension. I checked online as advised before sending her and it shows available via the vin. I'll be home next month and plan on replacing the master cylinder myself, it's pretty much a no brainer for me to do. The car in question is an 09' Z with just over 6k pampered miles on it.


My question is this. There are two part numbers listed in the 14717 paperwork, which one do I order? They are inexpensive when shopping around online, I just want to make sure I order the right one. I may also consider the Tick MC if people think it's worth the money for a car that never sees the track or is run hard.


Not long ago I had the car for sale here and a member wanted it. I ended up backing out on the sale and knowing what I know now I would have been very disappointed selling the car with the issue. The problem will be corrected soon and then the car may still go back up for sale, time will tell.

not08crmanymore

The clutch pedal sticking to the floor has been an issue in the c6 since 2005. I saw this thread is from 2015...is this still going on?

jft69z

When I get home later I can get you the ZR1 part number M/C that I put on a couple of weeks ago. Not sure if the Z06 is same.

Other option is call a dealer parts dept with the last 8 of your VIN and they can give you the right part number for your vehicle. That's what we did when ordering the one for my car.

EDIT: The part number was: 19331708

jshot00

they replaced both on my 08 that i bought in Nov 2015. Not sure if it was because of recall or the fact that it was an 8 year old car with only 1500 miles on it

KnightmareCS

The thread is from 2015 because that's when the "recall" was issued. It's a "courtesy" from GM. Letters were sent out to known owners to notify them if their car was eligible.

ProfessorDeath

Having owned multiple manual transmission Chevrolet sports cars, I can say it's the slave.

not08crmanymore

Yes I did notice that it's from last year. I bought my 13 a couple of months ago so I imagine they would have picked it up before delivery since it's certified...

t&t moyer

Thank you. My wife said it's making a little noise but I need to verify with her if it's when she's pushing the clutch pedal with the car off or running. Either way it may be a situation of replacing the slave at the same time. If I can convince my local garage, hopefully they will cover it and I don't have to spend a bit of my vacation time messing with it.

johnnybravothepimp

They denied mine like 3 times. Finally got tired of calling and explaining it to them...

Frosty4x4

I work out of town and came back to a dead vet. I charged the battery and her brains were fried. Starter would click...anyway they, Bankstone Chev, tried to charge me 300 bucks. I program the controls for turbine eng. With a stock, prebuilt program, it take 3 min to push it to the PLC. OK so I email GM and they called the dealer who refunded my money, all of it. When I went in for the clutch, the red carpet was down, same with the headlight recall. Lite a fire under there ***. U are the customer.

myfirstcorvette

I took my 2012 into the shop for the clutch on the floor issue and it's going to be fixed at no charge.. Well except and hour labor to install a new clutch, pressure plate and remote bleeder line.. She should be back on the road by Tuesday..
BUT FIRST A QUESTION.. Does it help to remove the rubber dust plugs in the bell-housing?

z06clif

Got mine done today. Car seems to shift smoother. Took the tech a bout 1 hr. Had to remove the wheel and wheel well liner for acesss. Part comes with the fluid installed. The resivour is black.

Clif

myfirstcorvette

They are taking my trans-axle out and and everything out to do mine.. They are also installing a new clutch that I bought.. They said it called for almost 9 hours and it's all covered except an hour to R&R the clutch..

z06clif

From what I saw today I dont understand the 9 hrs labor. The clutch yes of course,but not the recall I had done..
Clif

BowtieBilly1121

Yes I had rather have the clutch dust blow out under the car than stay in the bell housing. When I do a oil change twice a year rather it needs it or not I try to blow as much clutch dust as possible out by putting the air hose in the dust plugs holes.

myfirstcorvette

I don't know exactly why they pulled the trans but I sure wish I could afford to do some other upgrades while the exhaust is on the ground and the car's in the air.. I'm happy to pay the extra hour to R&R the clutch.. I shouldn't ever have to replace it again..

z06clif

Something sounds fishy........but its working out for you good job

Clif

myfirstcorvette

I got a call saying my car was ready BUT the service manager said that they shouldn't have pulled the trans-axle after all and now they are trying to figure out what to do about the extra labor they did. They are being really cool about it because I did tell him to make sure he had to pull it out before he started the process. I should get it back tomorrow morning with a new clutch, pressure plate, turned flywheel, master cylinder and remote bleeder line for a total out of pocket of $675.00

racerxr

Continued: the designed slow release creates excess clutch dust that in my opinion is not the problem. The problems are in order: the 13/16 master cylinder bore is to small. Willwood sells one with a 7/8 bore diameter that after $30 in machine work fits perfectly and pushes 1.1 oz of fluid in one push. It will increase pedal effort around 10% but after a few days you won't notice it. To me it feels better. The line between the master and slave must be replaced to eliminate the metered release of the clutch this will reduce clutch dust. And it makes doing a burn out even easier. A remote bleader is a very good idea but it's not the cure and it's impossible to install with the torque tube in the vehicle. Requiring Dot 4 ?? Who are they kidding. Dot 3 fluid is not the problem. The problem is that the clutch master they chose to use is too small and even at best can push only enough fluid for the system to work if the self adjusting pressure plate actually self adjusts. The excess clutch dust is more likely to prevent self adjustment than it would bind up the slave cylinder. the reason the pedal doesn't return is because it's over centered and not because of a mystery "pressure pulse" what do they mean by Pressure Pulse anyway. GM didn't discover that the axle shaft could break if you sidestepped the clutch until very late in testing. They decided to install a restriction in the fluid line to soften the "shock" to the drivetrain If the driver decides to roast the goodyears.
I bought a $60 Willwood 7/8 bore Clutch master cylinder, paid $40 to have the mounting area machined, paid $8 for a two piece aluminum collar ( the old master screws in for the Willwood you use the aluminum collar to secure it to the bracket. I also made an adjustable link between the master and pedal $40. I reused the pressure plate and just replaced the disc. The only issue at all was mounting the new reservoir that comes with the new master. I decided to use the original reservoir without any problems. Everything about the design of the C6 clutch is borderline insufficient. GM 's decision to prevent axle shafts from breaking by metering how quickly the clutch engages was the proverbial straw. My way could end up breaking an axle But I haven't had it happen yet in 25k of hard driving and plenty of burn-outs I know there are $700-$1000 clutch kits out there claiming to be the cure. But I'm not clear on whether they come with a larger master cylinder bore. Without the ability to push more fluid I don't see the benefit? Im sure that much of this I didn't explain very well. writing It's not my best attribute. My goal is simply to help anyone facing this issue to make a better decision before spending there hard earned money. Any question feel free to call or text me @916-521-7197 Take care. Tom

racerxr

To Whoops.
I would ask the dealer who machined the flywheel and if they have record of the measurement between the two steps . It's not a flat flywheel and the distance between the steps is absolutely critical. Just machining the flywheel is a problem because you are effectively Increasing the distance between the hearing on the slave cylinder and the fingers on the pressure plate. The extra distance means some of the fluid the master cylinder pushes will be used just to get the hearing close to the fingers of the plate. Since there is basically no reserve fluid and that to fully disengage you need every drop of fluid the OEM master can provide. Machining more than .005 - .010 might create a problem with full disengagement.
Machining a C6 flywheel where there is no pedal adjustment isn't a good idea??