Oil change drain bolt stuck!
07-26-2015, 12:42 PM
#121
Racer
One day while changing the oil on my Ford Ranger 2.3 pickup truck I noticed the plug threads looked bad and bought a new plug from Ford. Next oil change it would not come out and in the end I made a mess out of the plug trying. I got myself a dip stick oil changer from Harbor Freight and take the oil out the top. Its either that or put a new pan on it. I learned later on that is the recommended way for a Benz oil change is to come out the top. Maybe not perfect answer but beats putting on a new oil pan.
08-02-2015, 05:27 PM
#122
6th Gear
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Hi guys, I took it in to a trusted shop, and they had to blast it with an impact wrench for a couple minutes to get the bolt out. The bolt and washer were destroyed, and had to be replaced. Luckily there appears to be no oil leaking since the new bolt, so I'm assuming the oil pan is not damaged.
08-02-2015, 07:12 PM
#123
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Hi guys, I took it in to a trusted shop, and they had to blast it with an impact wrench for a couple minutes to get the bolt out. The bolt and washer were destroyed, and had to be replaced. Luckily there appears to be no oil leaking since the new bolt, so I'm assuming the oil pan is not damaged.
08-02-2015, 07:41 PM
#124
Melting Slicks
Hi guys, I took it in to a trusted shop, and they had to blast it with an impact wrench for a couple minutes to get the bolt out. The bolt and washer were destroyed, and had to be replaced. Luckily there appears to be no oil leaking since the new bolt, so I'm assuming the oil pan is not damaged.
You sure you didn't turn it the wrong way? Based on the torque needed to break a socket it would be darn near impossible for you to have been turning the right way. Go on admit it, we all have done something like this when we first started working on cars....nothing to be ashamed of it gets a bit confusing when your underneath the car....lefty loosey - Righty tighty...I tell myself that everytime I am underneath it...
....
Last edited by Cor430vette; 08-02-2015 at 11:03 PM.
08-02-2015, 07:55 PM
#125
Drifting
Of course there is nothing wrong with using a good quality 6 point socket and ratchet as long as you keep it square to the plug !
08-03-2015, 01:55 AM
#127
Safety Car
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Trick!
Trick! Go to a GOOD welding shop and you do not have to remove and buy a new pan. Of course, you have to go to a shop that deals with your type metal pan, aluminum or steel. They can remove and replace a new drain plug. I learned that 60 years ago, just ask me how I know.
08-03-2015, 09:02 AM
#128
Safety Car
Trick! Go to a GOOD welding shop and you do not have to remove and buy a new pan. Of course, you have to go to a shop that deals with your type metal pan, aluminum or steel. They can remove and replace a new drain plug. I learned that 60 years ago, just ask me how I know.
08-03-2015, 02:43 PM
#129
Le Mans Master
Hard to believe that after a brute force extraction was required, the steel oil drain bolt got messed up but the aluminum pan threads are ok.
Look into a helicoil repair on the oil drain hole... No welding, no oil pan removal, and it will be stronger than the original if performed correctly.
08-03-2015, 03:50 PM
#130
Drifting
If the threads on the old plug were OK, and only the washer was squashed, things may be ok. Hopefully the person that removed the old plug had enough experience to know if a problem was looming.
Knowing there is an alternative repair to a pan replacement is good. IF there is a future problem during an oil change, the high cost solution isn't required.
08-03-2015, 09:58 PM
#131
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Hard to believe that after a brute force extraction was required, the steel oil drain bolt got messed up but the aluminum pan threads are ok.
Look into a helicoil repair on the oil drain hole... No welding, no oil pan removal, and it will be stronger than the original if performed correctly.
08-04-2015, 06:31 AM
#132
Race Director
If the original threads are messed up enough to require a helicoil, you first need to drill it out to a larger size and tap it to accept the helicoil insert. On an aluminum pan that still on the car, that means you have no way of removing all the drill and tapping debris. Maybe pouring in more oil and hoping it flushes out chips might work, but not for me.
08-04-2015, 08:56 AM
#133
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If the original threads are messed up enough to require a helicoil, you first need to drill it out to a larger size and tap it to accept the helicoil insert. On an aluminum pan that still on the car, that means you have no way of removing all the drill and tapping debris. Maybe pouring in more oil and hoping it flushes out chips might work, but not for me.
08-04-2015, 01:10 PM
#134
Race Director
Even after you have it flushed, I would still put a filter magnet on the filter until your next oil change. Actually, I never leave mine off.
08-04-2015, 02:55 PM
#135
Le Mans Master
If the original threads are messed up enough to require a helicoil, you first need to drill it out to a larger size and tap it to accept the helicoil insert. On an aluminum pan that still on the car, that means you have no way of removing all the drill and tapping debris. Maybe pouring in more oil and hoping it flushes out chips might work, but not for me.
It is the absolute, best, money-is-no-object solution? Nope. But its a heck of a lot better than putting a new oil plug in a bad socket on the oil pan, and then praying to the Patron Saint of Aluminum Threads that your drain plug doesn't fall out as you drive down the highway!! LOL
Last edited by Kent1999; 08-04-2015 at 03:00 PM.
08-04-2015, 04:12 PM
#136
Drifting
08-04-2015, 07:09 PM
#137
Le Mans Master
You can move the world with enough leverage. Place a long (hollow) pipe that fits over your ratchet handle . The longer it is the easier it becomes(that's what she said LOL)
Clif
Clif
08-04-2015, 11:08 PM
#138
Safety Car
That was my first thought. Grease on the bit and tap plus an air hose in the fill tube at 30 PSI will keep the chips out. Then flush with clean oil.
08-05-2015, 07:47 AM
#139
Race Director
08-05-2015, 08:39 AM
#140
Le Mans Master
