c6reaperx

I took my car in about 2 months ago for the headlight recall. No issues with the electrical system at that time.

After I picked it up, I drove the car less than 100 miles and the fuel system shut off 3 times. I would stop and pull the fuel pump relay, re-seat it, and the car would run again.

I took the car back to the dealer 7 weeks ago. They finally called me last week and said that the fuse - electrical center needs to be replaced for 1k in parts and labor.

I feel like the repair is on them since they had to pull the fuse center apart to preform the recall. They are telling me it is because my car is 10 years old....I smell BS.

Am I right to think they should pay for this?

EVRose

It sure sounds like they screwed it up but good luck trying to prove it. They will never admit it.
I think this is maybe the 5th example of something bad happening after that recall work was done and why I would never try to let a dealer fix something that's working fine in the first place.

RICH 28

Dealer should pay and you need to fight that charge.

Don-Vette

psp6158

Dang it, just when I read threads and think all is good and I'm going to schedule mine, I read another thread like this. Holding out...

NoRuls

Every time I read a post like this I'm sooooo glad I live by Jackson Chevrolet in Middletown Ct, the home of Paul Koerner the Corvette Mechanic. c4c5@thecorvettemechanic.com. I never have to worry.....

GOLD72

I don't intend to do anything until it is broken.

See5see6

You are correct with that idea! I'll not have fixed what is not in need of being fixed.

GuyFromLeMans

Yeah because we all know cars go bad at the 10 year mark.
Typical.

CHBroker

I have an appointment week from this Friday to get this fixed and now don't know what to do. I am like you, I hate to have things fixed that aren't broken.

psp6158

Yea my car is a weekend car and very rearely driven at night. I'm in Pa. so car hibernates in the winter. "If" the headlights go out, all the other lights still function including the fog lights, then I'll address... My car was down almost a year with the valve issue and some other issues, I'm so happy no lights or issues, I want to enjoy it for a while.

GuyFromLeMans

Have you ever had headlights issues?
If the answer is "NO", then cancel while you still can.

NoRuls

Yah, you guys' that don't get an electrical issue fixed, your cars will be just fine after the fire department puts the fire out and the insurance company finds you didn't get a recall done. Let's see a show of hands here. How many of you KNOW the insurance companies are just looking for a reason NOT to pay? I thought so.............

GuyFromLeMans

Electrical issue? What electrical issue?.....
On another hand, if GM was recalling their PROVEN failures (HB, fuel sensors and shifter solenoid to name only the most popular ones) then yes, it would make a whole lot of sense getting them attended to.

But of course it's not happening cuz it would cost GM more than a dime a pop to fix.

EVRose

Its not an issue unless your headlights (both together) go out and if that happens that's all that will happen. The car is not gonna go up in flames. Your libel to have more issues than you know what to do with after the dealer gets their hands on it as proven by this very thread. There should be a poll on how many here have lost their headlights. I think I may have read about 2.

SUB VETTE

Recall: Filed until low beams fail, if ever.

Dano523

So easy to fix for a few dollars (spray cleaning and some dielectric grease), it not funny.

Start off by taking the lid off the engine bay fuse box, and take a photo of the top of the fuse block to make reinstalling the fuses and relays back in there correct locations after they have been pulled out very easy.

Disconnect the positive battery cable to begin with and the positive wire to the fuse block terminal, then using a socket, loosen all 4 of the silver center fuse block bolts so they are not longer threaded into the blocks below the fuse block.

There are clips on the fuse block out sides to lower housing so keep them in mind, but what you want to do is pull up and remove the entire fuse upper block from the main wire harnesses below it.



With the upper fuse block in hand, pull all the fuses/relays out of it.


Now with electrical contact spray cleaner, start by spraying the lower connector block harness still in the car to clean those female spade connectors in them.
Next. clean the bottom male spade tabs of the fuse block in hand, then clean the top of fuse block connectors that the fuses/relays clip into under the top fuse block cover.
Note, on the fuse block in hand, lean into it with the spray cleaner on the wetter side for the connectors under the cover. Your not only trying to clean the contacts that you can see, but the wire contacts between the points under the cover as well.

Now take a good look at the paired prong tabs that the fuse/relay will clip into under the top cover of the fuse block in hand.

Here are what the tabs should look like under the top cover, and what you are looking for it a sets of prongs are bent away from each other that will not make a good contact to the fuse/relay when it is clipped into the prong.


If no prongs are found to be bend away from each other and they spray cleaned up well, then we can move on. If you have prongs that are bent open/away from each other or will not spray clean up, then we need to pull the fuse block apart to solve this problem (to be able to squeeze the prongs back in shape with a set of needle noise pliers, then put the top covers back on the fuse blocks).

Although this post linked was designed to add a wire jumper in the fuse block before the recall solution, post 85 shows you how to pull the fuse block covers to get to the prongs below the top covers to straight them if needed.
Click this below link,
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...dlights-5.html



Fuse block prong connectors clean, and lower connector blocks female space connectors cleaned, lets get ready to put the works back together.


Start with cleaning all the fuse and relay bottom spades, and with a touch of dielectric grease on the clean fuse/relays spades, install all the fuse and relays back in the fuse box.
Note, if you had to pull the top cover to straighten matching prongs, then just lightly dielectric grease the connector before putting the covers back on.


Flip the fuse block in hand so you have all the bottom spade prongs up, and with Dielectric grease and a Q tip, lightly coat all the spade prongs surfaces.

Back at the car, your going to reinstall the fuse block back into the lower house/block connector harness. Get the block in place with some light downward pressure to just start the fuse block spade connectors into female connectors on the lower blocks, and when you go to tighten the 4 silver 10mm bolts down the center of the fuse block, it will pull the fuse block spade tabs into the harness connectors below it to fully seat the fuse block.

Also, depending on how they installed the head light jumper wire, not a bad time to rework the wire path if needed. On mine, they ran the jumper wire over the top of the connector main wires and was visable with the fuse block mounted in place, and with just moving some of the lower connector blocks around to get the wire to the bottom, was able to move the jumper wire to the bottom without having to disconnect any wire connectors (out of site, out of mind).

Fuse block in place, reinstall the positive wire to the fuse block terminal, reconnect the battery, re-index the windows, and set the radio to the correct time.


So for 20 mins of easy work, you just saved yourself $1K instead.

But yes for you guys that don't wrench on your own cars, the dealer is not going to take the time to just clean the fuse block to recondition it. Instead, they are going to hit you full boat for a new fuse block instead (and the labor to install the new block as well).

Also as you can tell, even after having my head light recall done on my vet by the dealer (to get it off the recall list), I still pulled the fuse block afterwards so I could clean and dielectric grease all the connectors. The dealer is not going to take the time to do such as I have written above. Hence by them pulling the fuse block, and just sticking it back in without cleaning/dielectric greasing the connectors after the recall patch wire is added, any old corrosion on the connects that gets scrapped off removing the fuse block in the first place to do the recall, just ends up in the lower female spade connectors instead.

Lastly, you have 8, 8866 relays in the engine bay fuse block, and the gas pump relay 8866 is the relay that is used the most. The washer fluid pump relay is a relay that gets the least amount of use, so not a bad ideal to play musical chairs with the relays to swap their positions.

acesx4

Sorry to hear you have a problem after the recall that's another reason I say if it's not broke don't fix it, if it goes out i'll deal with it then.

tealex

I've been watching this recall being bounced around for some time now. I think it's pretty bad that in this day and age customers like ourselves that spend a good deal of money on a car like a Corvette are afrade to take it to a GM dealer for any type of repair for fear of damage or poor workmenship. Does GM know or even care to know that the mechanics working on one of there most expensive cars know next to nothing about them or just don't care and take no pride in there work whatsoever. I've seen more than my share of mechanics that don't have a clue and shouldn't be aloud to work on a used lawn mower. Wake up GM and make these Dealerships train people who are trustworthy and take a little pride in their work. Mine hasn't been in for the recall and won't be unless it fails, and then I'll stand there and watch them work on it.

Don-Vette

I'm not taking my GS for the recall. Didn't bother with the ignition switch on the Caddy either. If it ain't broke don't fix it. IMO