Roofless

Has anyone come up with a solution for the shift lever in the C6 sticking in park other than the "zip tie" application? this is a real PIA

RICH 28

Cut the locking tab off or pay big bucks at the dealer.

Knob Jockey

Try pushing forward on the shifter before pulling it back out of park.

I have to do this with my new one.

0Killrwheels@Autogeek

remember to record the issue at NHTSA's site www.safercar.gov (file a complaint).

jmoffett

I push forward on the shifter before I put my foot on the brake pedal. I can feel the "click" in the shifter, and it comes out of park every time.

Mark H

I was doing the same thing, but it start getting where I would have to do this several times sometimes before it would work! So, I just cut the tab before I was left stranded.

4SUMERZ

The real kicker is even if GM does replace your sticky shifter assembly, it does not guarantee that it will not happen again to the new shifter. Mine did it a few times. Tie back the locking pawl and be done with it. No more worries.

Gman in NC

That's what I did about a year ago. No problem since.

EVRose

Do that and it's literally impossible for the shifter to get stuck in park ever again.

ClovisFox

I will have to try that. It's a real PITA to sit there and keep trying until it finally comes out of Park.

Gene...

G Morse

Where is the locking tab or locking pawl?

tennblkc6

open the pdf file in post #7

ufso

Here is all the info you need!

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...k-finally.html

Wkveits

The cause of the stuck in park conditions is the failure of the Micro Switch in series with the Park Release Solenoid. The factory Micro Switch is a Burgess V4NCSE, rated for 5A, 250V with a non-inductive source. The resistance of this switch increases over time because it is in series with the large inductance of the Solenoid. When the shifter is in park, the solenoid is supposed to be grounded through the switch. When +12V is applied to the other terminal of the Solenoid, it activates and retracts the pawl that locks the shifter in park. When you shift out of park, the micro switch opens and tries to interrupt the 0.5 A of current through the 25 Ohm solenoid. You can not instantaneously change the current in an inductor (solenoid). When the switch opens, the voltage of the inductor will increase to whatever is needed to allow the current to flow. This will cause arching across the contacts in the Micro Switch. Over time, the contacts become pitted and highly resistive. This is a GM design flaw. Standard procedure when interrupting the current in an inductor is to put a diode in parallel with the inductor. The diode is normally reversed biased. When the switch opens, the inductive current will flow through the diode, instead of flowing through the arcing of the switch. I used a 1N4937 diode across the solenoid. It is rated for 600V, 1A. The 1N4933, 4934, 4935, 4936 would work equally as well. I replaced the switch with the Omron SS-10GL2. It is rated for 10A, 250V. I did not have to make any modification to the switch.

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dr_gallup

That is definitely a design flaw. Every solenoid needs a Zener diode (you can use a resistor and capacitor in series too across the switch). Doesn't matter if it's a physical switch or a drive transistor turning the coil on and off. Every fuel injector has a Zener in the drive circuit, old school ignition points had a capacitor, etc. GM must have figured the switch would be long past warranty before it burned up and decided to save 2 cents.

1320#me

I cut the paw off a year ago. A little bit of work but it was well worth it. I never worry if it will get stuck again. I figured i might as well cut it off instead of a zip tie as long as it was right in front of me.