When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm sure that many of you have been waiting for Ward Cleaver to weigh in with the definitive answer to the question posed in this thread, so here it is...
Do it yourself.
Changing the oil and filter is very easy on a Corvette, and you know the job has been done right when you're finished (oil filter not too tight or too loose, proper oil has been used, drain plug not cranked as tight as a lug nut, etc.).
Most dealerships don't allow customers to stand around in the service bay areas and watch while service is being performed (due to insurance and liability issues). Instead, you're relegated to the service department's customer waiting area where you can sip a styrofoam cup of coffee and watch the morning news on their TV.
But even if my dealership did allow customers to saunter around in the service bays and watch work being performed, I would still do the job myself because it's not necessary to have a "service technician" change the oil and filter on one of these cars.
A couple of people have said they bring their own oil and filter to their local "quicky lube" place and then stand there and watch the guy (or kid) to make sure it's done properly.
If you're going to stand right over the guy and watch him every step of the way, (and assuming you're not helpless), you might as well just do the job yourself since the difficulty factor is only about a "1."
Originally Posted by HalJensen
It's worth $20 to me not to have to spend the time jacking the car up...
Originally Posted by Red08
The clearance under a vette can be an issue if not raised up properly...
Originally Posted by TomToro
I need to buy the pucks, two low jacks and a pan...
Originally Posted by R&L's C6
A long extension and couple of 2x12 ramps make it really easy...
I don't understand why there's a tendency to think that these cars have to be raised or lifted up in order to do an oil and filter change.
There is no need whatsoever to jack up a C6 or drive it up on ramps, etc., to change the oil and filter.
I've never raised my C6 or the C4 I used to have to change the oil and filter.
It doesn't make any difference what size you are or how big or "thick" you are, because you don't have to get under the car at all to change the oil and filter.
By simply laying down beside the car it's very easy to simply reach your arm underneath it and access the drain plug with a wrench...and it's just as easy to access the oil filter. And no, it doesn't take long arms, the drain plug and filter are easily within reach and accessible.
The only thing you need is a container with a low profile to slide under the car and drain the oil into.
You can either order a low profile oil drain pan, or simply go to Wal-Mart this afternoon where you can easily find inexpensive casserole type pans (even $1.25 disposable aluminum casserole type pans) in their kitchen department with a low profile and enough volume capacity to easily accommodate the used oil.
I certainly wouldn't drive my car up on ramps for an oil change just to accommodate a standard profile Auto Zone oil drain pan.
These things can be a bitzz to do unless you have a lift handy. I take mine to the local quick change. The owner does mine. The first time I drove in I told him what he would see under the car, since he had never seen a dry sump before, how much oil would come out of each bolt hole , where to put the oil in, and had the exact amount of oil to put in and had my filter.
I only do it once a year, but he loves to see the Z pull in.
I don't use a lift at all, I drive the left front tire up on a 2x8 so I can get my shoulder under far enough to reach, and I have installed a Fumoto oil drain valve to make it easier.
I'm ready for my first oil change and wondering if I need to go to the dealer or does anybody go to Valvoline or other quick lube places?
Every vette I have purchased in the past, the dealer always gave me the first oil change free. Good business sense maybe and established a trust with the service dept. Sometimes not too!
Bought a torque wrench, 18" long extension, 2 2x12x8' boards, 7qts of Mobil one and a pf48E. Couldn't find the basic pf48.
Anybody use the pf48E is it much different and can I use it or will it mess with the warranty?
I plan on making two 4' ramps like the one in the pics.
Why seven quarts? If it's a wet sump it only takes six (some will argue 5.5 qts) and if it's a dry sump, I believe it takes more than seven although I'm not sure about that. Have you checked your owners manual for capacities?
They were on sale at the Walmart and I like to have one on hand in case I burn any (haven't yet). I also heard 5.5 qts so after I put the fifth one in, I need to keep checking the dip stick.
Originally Posted by R&L's C6
Why seven quarts? If it's a wet sump it only takes six (some will argue 5.5 qts) and if it's a dry sump, I believe it takes more than seven although I'm not sure about that. Have you checked your owners manual for capacities?
Dealer would be my absolute last choice for an oil change. The highest price and the lowest quality of service available. Your car is out of sight and worked on by the lowest man on the totem pole while he's in between washing cars.
Some of the quick lube places can be good, You bring the oil in so you know you're getting the right oil in the correct quantity. You can watch them work (most places) and the cost for their labor will be around $20.00. It's worth $20 to me not to have to spend the time jacking the car up, changing the oil, cleaning up and disposing of the drained oil.
I agree, it is just an oil change.. How can you screw that up at a quick change oil place. They take the plug out, drain the oil, remove the filter and fill it back up with the oil you tell them too. The entire time you can watch them through a window
My BIL owns local Goodyear shop so I just take Vette to him, use to change my own oil YEARS AGO. Then I realized they can have it changed quicker than I can go get the stuff to change it with.
I go to a local Havoline Express and as soon as I pull up there the manager comes out provided he is out amongst the fellas. I drive in and they all have facial contortions as the front chin glides along the 2 rails painted yellow and I tell the guy to relax. Z51 with Koni FSD suspension means it is a lowered vette and the plastic is and has been fine and scraping is a daily event for me. No need for a lift and I ask them for another 5 minutes of drain time and they say "No problem" as they refill washer fluid or spray lube on the door hinges or whatever. The more confident guys let on that this motor is no murder mystery to perform an oil change on and I agree as I have done the same before with a former forum member. For $22 and I bring oil/filter and watch like a hawk and ensuing dipstick check and all is well.
I go to a local Havoline Express and as soon as I pull up there the manager comes out provided he is out amongst the fellas. I drive in and they all have facial contortions as the front chin glides along the 2 rails painted yellow and I tell the guy to relax. Z51 with Koni FSD suspension means it is a lowered vette and the plastic is and has been fine and scraping is a daily event for me. No need for a lift and I ask them for another 5 minutes of drain time and they say "No problem" as they refill washer fluid or spray lube on the door hinges or whatever. The more confident guys let on that this motor is no murder mystery to perform an oil change on and I agree as I have done the same before with a former forum member. For $22 and I bring oil/filter and watch like a hawk and ensuing dipstick check and all is well.
I may just go and ask the question if that's possible at my local quickie lube joint, I'm too old to be doing this crap, just being real
NSF
Oil change made simple - yesterday I bought a 3 ton low profile floor Jack from Harbor Freight $90 (I needed a new jack). I jacked the car up (no puck) making sure the Jack was only on the frame. Reached under drained oil removed filter - filled new filter with oil and installed and replaced drain plug. Filled engine with oil and reset the maintenance minder - wha-la done! Test drove it bringing the oid oil & filter to recycling center.
Used the plans from this forum and made these ramps. Worked great without scraping at all. Chocked the wheels in back and used emergency brake. Then for overkill, I put a safety jack underneath.
Oil plug was easy to get to with a 18" extension. Oil filter was harder, but I have ape arms and was able to get it off and on. The whole thing was easy and I'll be doing these myself from now on.
Thanks for the help, Folks!
With the stops, tomtoro's ramps are 6" high. They won't fit behind the front tires. Race Ramps Trak-Jax or Roll-up ramps can be used the way you suggest.
Originally Posted by Triumph Jerry
Tomtoro
If you put the ramps behind the front wheels and back onto them, it will
give you more room to work.
I agree, it is just an oil change.. How can you screw that up at a quick change oil place.
A while back a coworker learned how they can screw it up. Not long after getting an oil change he heard something odd while driving down the road. He pulled over and saw a path of oil on the road where he'd been. They failed to tighten the drain plug.
While these incidents are rare, they do happen. Of course there are probably plenty of us who have also done boneheaded things like forgetting to put the oil fill cap back on and spraying oil all over the engine bay when we started it up!
10-10-2014, 11:34 AM
These things can be a bitzz to do unless you have a lift handy. I take mine to the local quick change. The owner does mine. The first time I drove in I told him what he would see under the car, since he had never seen a dry sump before, how much oil would come out of each bolt hole , where to put the oil in, and had the exact amount of oil to put in and had my filter.
Do it yourself, never the stealer!!
