donwil

When I leave the car with the Fob it locks automatically no problem. That is how the previous owner had it set up and I have not changed it. However when I come back sometimes the door ulocks without pressing the unlock button as it should and other times I have to use the Fob button to unlock the door. Doesn't seem to be any consistant reason for this. Anybody have this happen to them and can tell my why and how to correct it? Do I need to reprogram the settings? (which I have never done-still has previous owners greeting on the DIC readout! I know,pretty lame) Any help is appreciated. Thx

Vette_DD

On the times that you had to use the unlock button on the fob, how far away from the door handle was the fob that you were holding and using? Are there any strong external electronic signals from anything near the car?

rado63

I agree with the post#2, unless magnetic or electrical interference should work as programmed. You may want to replace FOB batteries. Also you may want to check what setting the car has for FOB reminder, passive lock and passive unlock. See the owners manual to verify the procedure.

MikeERWNC

I somewhat disagree.

You could have issues with your outer door buttons.
I replaced mine last year and now about 40k miles later the drivers door is acting the way the old one did before I replaced it.

New outer door buttons is the best fifteen dollars spent on my car so far.

Dano523

You can clean the door pads for like a buck worth of electrical contact cleaner.




Back to opt,

As for the antennas that is looking for the fob, they are located just behind the door pad in the B columns (RCRLR is in the middle of the dash that will pick it up, as well the as the antenna in the back bay the hatch, but the two in the B pillars are ones most likely to pick up the fob first).

So that note, start off by pulling the door pads, and using electrical contract cleaner and some elbow grease to clean both of door pull pads contact points.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-fix-easy.html

When you are done with the pads, pull the rear hatch button and clean that up as well. If you did not know that it was even there, it works when you have the fob with you in your pocket, so you don't have to take the fob out of your pocket to open the hatch/trunk from outside the car.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-pictures.html

While you still have some Cleaner left, then pull the Fobs and clean them up as well. On the fobs, don't go crazy with a tooth brush since you can snap one of the small wires, but do everything a good shot of cleaner. Also, god only knows how old the battery are, so replace some Energizers 2032's to replace the batteries in both fobs.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ement-diy.html
And here is the extra step I take pulling the rubber and board out of the front cover so I can clean both side, and clean the lint/grim out between the front cover and buttons with contact cleaner.





Lastly on the subject of fobs, test one fob at a time as you walk up to the car (kept the other one way, way away from the car), start the car, and see what fob number/ information is giving in the DIC. The car can be set for each fob (1 and two) in the DIC settings for how the car will act to that fob, and the reason that you have to keep the other fob way away, Fob 1 will always over ride the other fobs when the car sees more than one fob (sees the owners as the one having fob one in the drivers seat, and the second fob the one in the spouses possession in the passengers seat ( along for the ride).

What you want to see when you walk up with Fob 1, the DIC stating fob 1, and then why you are using Fob 2, DIC stating fob 2.
The reason I bring this up, either fob 1 or 2 may have been lost, the fobs are now programmed as fob 3 or higher instead. When this happens the memory does not work for these fobs, and you will need to reprogram the car so the two fobs you have, the cars understands them as Fob 1 and Fob 2 and not a higher fob number.

P.S, on the subject of DIC, learn now to program not only it, but the seat memory as well. Also, while you are deep into the owner manual, take the time to learn where the manual release are for the doors/hatch (what the key is for) when the battery dies so you not only get in the car to pop the hood to jump the car, but get out of as well.


Don't be this guy!!!

As an added bonus when you are in the manual reading, will find that the fuel door has a pull tab right behind the drivers door release in the back drivers side, and come in handy when you forgot to pop the fuel door getting out of the car to refuel. Hence you use the hatch release button above the license plate to pop the hatch with the fob still in your pocket, then reach in the back left side and pull the fuel door tab to open it (which comes in handy, since the back cargo net with where I keep the bottle of Techron to add during every third fill up, so already have to pop the hatch).

donwil

I am always right next to the door when I use the fob button. I dont think there is any interference. I have had to do it in parking lots. Thx for your help. Don

Dano523

Antennas will sense the Fob as you are walking up to the car so as you pull on the door pad, the car unlocks the doors and pops the hatch.

When you push a the unlock button on the Fob, that signal is picked up via the RCDLR to tell the doors to unlock before you even pull on the door pad. The antenna in the RCDLR is just a short strip, so still sounds like the antennas and RCDLR are working correctly, and it just the fob that has a weak battery/weak battery connection and not sending out a strong enough proximity signal for the car to pick up instead.


As for the quick way to trouble shoot the car, Tech II to get input readings on the RCDLR to pin point if the problem is the Fob, the RCDLR, or just one of the antennas instead. I mention this, since if the door pads are corrode, then the connectors for one of the antennas may be in need of cleaning as well.


Also point out, if your car battery is questionable (about worn out and not holding a full charge to begin with), could be the problem at hand. Plug your battery tender (Ctek 3300) into the car over night to see if that solves the problem

donwil

Thx for the help. I will get a new Fob battery and go from there. I dont know if it has ever been changed and the car is 9 yrs old. Appreciate your input. Don

jumm

If your cellphone is close to the fob, this could also be your problem.

EVRose

That first part isn't quite true. There is no sensing/communication going on between the car and the fob unless and until a button on either is pushed. At that point the car sends signal and requests answer from the fob and unlocks the door. The car doesn't know you are walking up to it even with the fob in your pocket until you push something.

cclive

And also if you have a cellphone charger plugged in the console, this can cause interference. This can be true even if the phone is not plugged into that charger.

donwil

Thanks-I wasn't aware that was how it worked. Interesting. I thought once you got close enough with the fob the doors were already unlocked Didn't realize I had to press on door first.