vettdreamer

WOW what a summer between the squeaky brakes and the squeaking popping roof and now a musty smell. Getting pretty frustrated. Changed brake pads to the gm ceramic no help then to the bosch nothing helps. Then to the roof tried all the tricks there. Now dealing with trying to clean the core to get rid of the musty smell. Getting pretty embarrassing to drive the car.

mikeCsix

Your brake issue is unusual, both OEM and hawk/carbotech ceramics were quiet. I only get noise with track pads.
Check threads for bedding procedures.

Dano523

Core is easy enough to clean, just make sure that the vent pipe out the box is not clogged and why the water is collecting in the box to go funky instead. Also, make sure to flush out the inlet duct work before the filter (don't forget to replace the filter with a charcoal unit) since you could have sucked something into the duct work at the front of the windshield that died and sucking the funky smell in the cabin.

Bottom line that has the split closed end is the box drain line,



Roof is a snap, C clips for the roller shafts to wedge the rollers to one side so they are not free moving, O rings around the front posts after you have made sure that the post are tight, then Dielectric grease on all the seals and parts that will rattle to stop them from squeaking (read handles to shafts as well). If the problem is the rear pins, then heat shrink around those posts will stop the metal to metal squeaks.

Brakes, pull the discs and 300 glass bead blast the pad areas to remove all the old brake disc material that may have baked on them/de-glaze the pad areas on the discs, lightly surface the pads to remove any glazing, and make sure to use some Moly grease on the steel part of the calibers to pads backers so you don't get steel against steel vibrating squealing when the brakes are applied. Also, allow enough time for the pad to mate to the discs, instead of just ending up glazing the parts again.
To note, when you do have the discs all cleaned up, might be a good time to give then a coat if not coated to cut down on the rusting so quickly. You don't want to shoot coat the disc contact areas, but the rest of the discs, go buck wild.

vara411

I'm sorry forgive my ignorance... but what exactly am I looking at, here? I'm not the original poster but definitely suspect a clogged line and am very interested on how to fix this. Can you please provide some context, here? Thanks in advance!

Firewater Burns

Shrink wrapping the rear posts was the key for me.

I also went through greasing all the posts and rubber, O-rings on the front and rear posts, and tightening the 05-09 handle moving parts. None of that did much for my roof.

There is a GM bulletin for a list of procedures to eliminate roof squeak some where around here. I took a few of the tips off of them. It took care of the squeak coming from the glass rubbing against the screw on the driver side.

Dano523

Silver part of the fire wall, bottom hose pointing at 7:00 O:clock is the box drain hose . The hole can can get clogged from time to time and has to be cleared (couple inches up the hose with a coat hanger will do the trick, or it its bad enough, pop the hose off and clear it that way instead).



Drain hose while looking from above,

not08crmanymore

I'm with you on the roof thing.My current 2013 GS has been the worst C6 yet for roof noise.The rear latch basically fell apart. Dealer replaced it. Now,every time I go over a pebble or a bump,the damn roof jumps around back there like rocks in a coffee can.Not quite the same as the latch issue,but noise is noise and it really is annoying,frustrating and aggravating.

Dano523

Are you talking about when you have the roof stored in the back hatch area?

If yes, as stated, heat shrink tubing on the rear pins takes car of the post ball sections in the cups rattle, and as for the front, sticky back Velcro cloth side on the plastic flats just behind the storage hooks takes car of that rattle.

cor28vettes

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=3010826
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2570528

jedblanks

for brake pads, you need the leading edge (or both edges) chamfered.

The stock ones are not.

like this:



You can buy them like that or do it yourself with a file. The leading edge is what squeals.

vettdreamer

Thanks for all the tips I will try them this weekend

not08crmanymore

Yes,when stored. I'll try this and see what happens.It seems the velcro always comes off after a while. Heat shrink on the pins on the roof? So it stays on all the time? It's a rattle,not a metal on metal sound....

OP,sorry,not trying to hijack your thread..

96GS#007

9 times out of 10, if your brakes were squeaking and you did not resurface or replace the rotors when replacing the pads, the squeak will continue or return after a fairly short amount of time. You also need to make sure the pins (if a GS or Z06) and pistons are clean before installing the new pads. I usually add a little dab of brake grease to the pins as well.

Regarding the roof....all the fixes are hit or miss. The 2013 latches are the new design, so there are no rollers to add the c-clips to like the older design. I think the new design started around 2009 or 2010?

I've added the heat shrink tubing to all 4 posts, new o-rings, used a variety of recommended lubes on the weatherstripping and.....when it is 77* or higher outside....the roof squeaks when going over rough pavement. The 77* is like clockwork. 76* and under, not a peep. Over 77*

I recently added a second set of o-rings to the front posts and that seems to have reduced the squeaking about 50%....half the time over 77* it squeaks and creaks. Below 77*....quiet as a church mouse

I've also tried loosening and then re-torquing to spec the posts. No difference.

Just the "character" of the car.

not08crmanymore

As for squeaky brakes,my 05 had a slight squeak,as many did back then.I got the car up to speed about 4 times and hit the brakes hard bringing the car to a dead stop and to about 5mph on those occasions. Squeak went away and never came back the whole 2 1/2 years I had the car.

Dano523

Heat shrink tubing on the rear pins, and just heat up the shrink tubing until the tubing conforms to the pins, including the end ball (leave it long and cut after you hit it with a heat gun).

As for the sticky back Velcro, use some denatured alcohol on the plastic flats behind the hooks to remove years of Armor All build up before you install the cloth side of stick back Velcro.

As for the rattle of the plastic pieces (ball receivers in the back, and the plastic around the hooks in the front), a little electric grease between them and the body they they are bolted to stops them from squeaking.