Rear End Clicking?
#1
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Rear End Clicking?
I have an 07 A6, when shifting from D to R or vice versa, or even at slow speeds if I shift down using the paddleshifters I can hear a clicking sound.
I have checked the axle nuts by hand only and they are tight by feel of the hand (haven't done with a torgue wrench). However, I am not sure if they would be causing the clicking sound when driving the car at slow speeds? Also, the sound is very light if I don't use the paddleshifters and let the transmission shift by itself.
Any thoughts what the cause might be?
I have checked the axle nuts by hand only and they are tight by feel of the hand (haven't done with a torgue wrench). However, I am not sure if they would be causing the clicking sound when driving the car at slow speeds? Also, the sound is very light if I don't use the paddleshifters and let the transmission shift by itself.
Any thoughts what the cause might be?
#3
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St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
Ever have rear diff fluid changed? Test for rear wheel bearings? With one wheel up in air just rotating may lead to noise detection. As I recall, the axle nuts are about a few dollars each, one-time tighten only. And the procedure is clean threads, apply Loctite and tighten to 140 IIRC. I'd also check to see if any pebbles/stones got stuck in the brakes.
#4
Race Director
Gotta check the axle nuts with a wrench.
As mentioned above one time use and let the Loctite set up for 24 hours.
In my experience the loose axle nut noise is usually at start of rolling.
The differential chatter is easily heard while turning at lower speeds. Again proper fluid change will solve this. Has to do with anti slip additives in the diff oil.
As mentioned above one time use and let the Loctite set up for 24 hours.
In my experience the loose axle nut noise is usually at start of rolling.
The differential chatter is easily heard while turning at lower speeds. Again proper fluid change will solve this. Has to do with anti slip additives in the diff oil.
Last edited by Boomer111; 07-10-2014 at 10:21 AM.
#5
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Ever have rear diff fluid changed? Test for rear wheel bearings? With one wheel up in air just rotating may lead to noise detection. As I recall, the axle nuts are about a few dollars each, one-time tighten only. And the procedure is clean threads, apply Loctite and tighten to 140 IIRC. I'd also check to see if any pebbles/stones got stuck in the brakes.
I haven't used a wrench to tighten the nuts yet because I need to get the socket, I heard that repeated tightening can damage the axle and also because I can hear the noise while travelling at 20-30 mph if I downshift via paddles.
#6
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Gotta check the axle nuts with a wrench.
As mentioned above one time use and let the Loctite set up for 24 hours.
In my experience the loose axle nut noise is usually at start of rolling.
The differential chatter is easily heard while turning at lower speeds. Again proper fluid change will solve this. Has to do with anti slip additives in the diff oil.
As mentioned above one time use and let the Loctite set up for 24 hours.
In my experience the loose axle nut noise is usually at start of rolling.
The differential chatter is easily heard while turning at lower speeds. Again proper fluid change will solve this. Has to do with anti slip additives in the diff oil.
#7
Race Director
While I had the loose axle nut problem I did not have issues at speed, just when starting to roll from a standstill.
I have do not remember anyone posting this problem at speed either but my memory is poor.
Dunno really but maybe something is hitting/rubbing with the torque change. Example, exhaust pipes loose or motor mounts etc.
Have you had any worked done recently that may have left something loose?
On further investigation and using the search function I found the below link.
Here is a thread similar to yours with results for problems: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...d-reverse.html
I have do not remember anyone posting this problem at speed either but my memory is poor.
Dunno really but maybe something is hitting/rubbing with the torque change. Example, exhaust pipes loose or motor mounts etc.
Have you had any worked done recently that may have left something loose?
On further investigation and using the search function I found the below link.
Here is a thread similar to yours with results for problems: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...d-reverse.html
Last edited by Boomer111; 07-10-2014 at 11:15 AM.
#8
Instructor
Same Thing
My 07 M6 does the same thing. It seems to do it just when you let the clutch out and it grabs. Is there a difference between the automatic and manuals?
#9
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I read the entire thread and my guess is when they changed the OP's right axle the noise went away as the axle nuts would have gotten tighented after replacing the axle. I think this might be the root cause...
Edit: Forgot to mention that no work has been done on the car in a long time, nor any mods.
Edit: Forgot to mention that no work has been done on the car in a long time, nor any mods.
While I had the loose axle nut problem I did not have issues at speed, just when starting to roll from a standstill.
I have do not remember anyone posting this problem at speed either but my memory is poor.
Dunno really but maybe something is hitting/rubbing with the torque change. Example, exhaust pipes loose or motor mounts etc.
Have you had any worked done recently that may have left something loose?
On further investigation and using the search function I found the below link.
Here is a thread similar to yours with results for problems: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...d-reverse.html
I have do not remember anyone posting this problem at speed either but my memory is poor.
Dunno really but maybe something is hitting/rubbing with the torque change. Example, exhaust pipes loose or motor mounts etc.
Have you had any worked done recently that may have left something loose?
On further investigation and using the search function I found the below link.
Here is a thread similar to yours with results for problems: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...d-reverse.html
Last edited by Mad*Max; 07-10-2014 at 03:40 PM. Reason: bad memory
#10
Race Director
Hopefully this will help.
Remember to let the Loctite cure for 24 hrs.
140 lbs and tighten only once otherwise replace the nut.
Good luck I been there before with irritable noise, as we all have.
Remember to let the Loctite cure for 24 hrs.
140 lbs and tighten only once otherwise replace the nut.
Good luck I been there before with irritable noise, as we all have.
#13
Le Mans Master
Start by replacing the diff fluid. I did mine last month. It's a very easy thing to do. I got my GM diff fluid (2 qts) from one of the forum sponsors, and saved about $30 over buying it from the local chevy dealer.
#15
Team Owner
Forget the dealer, get the new nuts at Amazon...they are common to many GM cars. I just got a pair for less than $8 shipped...they are a bit more now I think. Original Dorman nuts exactly the same as came from the factory. Checking the tightness by hand is meaningless. You can't feel 60 ft lbs and yet this is less than half what the torque should be.
#16
Advanced
IAW TSB 07-04-95-001A, Torque changed to 160 ft lbs.
Torque to 160 ft lbs, not 140, torque revised. I installed new nuts as per TSB, also used old nuts as a locknut, with locktite. These should not loose torque over time. Also, Autozone has 34mm 1/2" drive socket about $15. Purchased two new nuts from dealer $7.32 total.
Last edited by F143744; 07-11-2014 at 03:23 PM. Reason: Added nut price.
#17
Drifting
I had my diff fluid changed and that mostly fixed the clunk problem. I replaced the axle nuts and that made me feel better. Now I have a clicking sound as Mad*Max described and suspect that its the stabilizer bar end links that need to be replaced.
#18
Race Director
The sway bar end links can be noisy too. All the described noises are different in actuality and occur at different times. The end links are heard while going over bumps or uneven ground, the rear end chatter is while turning and at initial movement. The loose axle nuts noise is on takeoff only in my experience.
#19
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Forget the dealer, get the new nuts at Amazon...they are common to many GM cars. I just got a pair for less than $8 shipped...they are a bit more now I think. Original Dorman nuts exactly the same as came from the factory. Checking the tightness by hand is meaningless. You can't feel 60 ft lbs and yet this is less than half what the torque should be.
#20
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Where did you buy the Loctite, is it the red one?
Last edited by Mad*Max; 07-12-2014 at 10:54 PM.