Newbie C6 buyer here
#1
Newbie C6 buyer here
Hi everyone, looking into purchasing a C6 Corvette soon, but I have a million questions about them. I've been searching the forums, and there is so many threads it is hard to find anything I am looking for. I have some super basic questions I am hoping people can help with
What I am looking for is a manual transmission C6, with a glass targa roof. Red with black interior, or white with red interior would be my favorite color choices. Z06 is above my intended budget, looking for an entry level priced car to work off.
What years are best, or what years should I stay away from?
Are there any Corvette specific issues to look out for when looking at used ones?
I plan to modify, probobly some sort of turbo kit very shortly after purchasing. What kits are good, and what should I stay away from?
Thanks for any help in advance!
What I am looking for is a manual transmission C6, with a glass targa roof. Red with black interior, or white with red interior would be my favorite color choices. Z06 is above my intended budget, looking for an entry level priced car to work off.
What years are best, or what years should I stay away from?
Are there any Corvette specific issues to look out for when looking at used ones?
I plan to modify, probobly some sort of turbo kit very shortly after purchasing. What kits are good, and what should I stay away from?
Thanks for any help in advance!
#2
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Mar 2001
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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
If you're going with a manual, then the big change points are:
2008: LS3 engine
2010: Grand Sport introduced
2012: upgraded seats and stereo
In general, buy the latest model you can afford. I would definitely try to swing an 08 or later if you can.
2008: LS3 engine
2010: Grand Sport introduced
2012: upgraded seats and stereo
In general, buy the latest model you can afford. I would definitely try to swing an 08 or later if you can.
#3
Team Owner
I'd stay away from 05s and 06s.
Here's a link to the model year changes.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1580332846-post1.html
Here's a link to the model year changes.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1580332846-post1.html
#4
Thanks guys, I can definitely swing an 08. The reason I am buying a Corvette really is because I am looking to downgrade from a more expensive car I own. Looking to free up some money without sacrificing fun and performance.
I'll try and stay with 08+.
I'll try and stay with 08+.
#5
Race Director
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Location: T-Town WA
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2016 C6 of Year Finalist
I'd stay away from 05s and 06s.Here's a link to the model year changes.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1580332846-post1.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1580332846-post1.html
#7
Race Director
#8
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Jan 2006
Location: Down south in Dixie
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IMHO try to find one with no prior mods. That way you have a blank canvas, and are relatively sure it hasn't been dogged. These cars are very reliable. Mine is an '07, and other than regular maintenance I have only changes the rear diff. fluid. I will say that finding a red w/black int. will be easier to find than a white w/red interior. I started a search for the white /red int. car in '06, and gave up. They are beautiful, but extremely hard to find. Good luck.
#9
Drifting
#10
Team Owner
I'd stay away from 05s and 06s.
Here's a link to the model year changes.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1580332846-post1.html
Here's a link to the model year changes.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1580332846-post1.html
Should I have mentioned DBS, flying roof, column lock?
GM did reglue the roof on one of my 05s and did replace the roof on my 06.
Last edited by Vette_DD; 06-20-2014 at 02:30 PM.
#11
Race Director
08'+ is very good advice, many improvements besides the engine.
Drive as many local cars as you can to gain some perspective, and decide on what options you want.
But don't feel you have to buy local.
There are many Forum Vendors around the country with large inventories of well cared for cars. They have more experience with Vettes than a typical local Chevy dealer with only a couple cars on their lot. Higher volumes also mean better prices, most of time.
The drive home, even cross-country, will be a good introduction to your new purchase.
Drive as many local cars as you can to gain some perspective, and decide on what options you want.
But don't feel you have to buy local.
There are many Forum Vendors around the country with large inventories of well cared for cars. They have more experience with Vettes than a typical local Chevy dealer with only a couple cars on their lot. Higher volumes also mean better prices, most of time.
The drive home, even cross-country, will be a good introduction to your new purchase.
#12
Le Mans Master
My question is, what are you downgrading from? In my opinion, any C6 model year is good. There have been problems in every year model. 2008 saw the LS3 with 30 more hp and some interior upgrades over the 2007. I had a 2005 with a LS2 400 hp and it was no slouch at all. I loved that car. A couple of minor problems over 3 years and 75k miles. Buy what you can afford.
#13
Racer
Some of the points, (in no particular order) that I’ve picked up on this forum as I prepare to buy my C6. HTH
View a carfax just in case it was in an accident.
Two of the most popular options that will at least give you a partial payback when you decide to sell are magnetic selective Ride Control the dual-mode exhaust, NPP exhaust system. It is quiet at cruise but barks a little when you hammer it. Nothing worse than some aftermarket exhaust with a loud drone. (F55).
Check for Z51 option. Even with mag ride to soften the impact of Z51, the ride can be harsh.
Check for dreaded oil smell. Go for a drive, lots of stops, starts, check for any oil smell.
Check the oil pan gasket for seeping oil.
Check vanity mirror hinges, are they frozen???
Does the coupe have a transparent top? If it does, that means that the sun will be beating down on your head. Need the painted top option.
Drive the car in tight figure 8’s, both forward and in reverse. May bring out hidden problems in the drive train.
Turn front tires to the stops and check for excessive inside tire wear, which C6s are prone to.
Check to see if owner’s manual is in glove box. The owner’s manual is a must for the C6.
Ask if jacking pucks are included. Check for damage on the underside to make sure no damage from not using pucks.
Check for wheel locks (locking lug nuts) and if installed, make sure key is included.
Nav (if equipped) check that DVDs are included.
Check for excessive wear on seat bolsters.
Check harmonic balancer for any wobble....this is a common failure item on the C6.
A clear and complete set of service and maintenance records.
Dated receipts for any repairs done.
Are any repaired parts or mod parts under a limited warranty?
And as always, get a pre-purchase inspection done by someone who knows these cars.
If from a dealer, insist on an alignment before you bring it home, and if from private, get it immediately done.
Make sure they give you TWO key fobs and the keys that go with them.
If sold by a GM dealer should have GM CPO warranty, a 2 year bumper to bumper warranty, it should go with the car. It should have the balance of the new car warranty also.
If you have a car that is still subject to the 5/100K powertrain warranty, besides getting the IVH-Investigate Vehicle History report from any GM dealer (formerly called VIS). Have some dealer tech run a scan on the car's computer to see if there's anything that could cause a denial of major powertrain claim (such as a tune which may cause that to happen) and have him note that on the order ticket that it is free of any changes. Inspect for aftermarket headers, and stock placement of cat converters.
Here's a link to the RPO codes: http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/...l#.Uta85f0_f68
The rpo sticker is in the glove box the one in the dash, on the left hand side, it's kind of hard to see take a light if the light is poor where the car is stored.
If the car is that close to new there might be a window sticker available ( a more readable form of the rpo), it might even be in the glove box if not ask them to print one out for you.
View a carfax just in case it was in an accident.
Two of the most popular options that will at least give you a partial payback when you decide to sell are magnetic selective Ride Control the dual-mode exhaust, NPP exhaust system. It is quiet at cruise but barks a little when you hammer it. Nothing worse than some aftermarket exhaust with a loud drone. (F55).
Check for Z51 option. Even with mag ride to soften the impact of Z51, the ride can be harsh.
Check for dreaded oil smell. Go for a drive, lots of stops, starts, check for any oil smell.
Check the oil pan gasket for seeping oil.
Check vanity mirror hinges, are they frozen???
Does the coupe have a transparent top? If it does, that means that the sun will be beating down on your head. Need the painted top option.
Drive the car in tight figure 8’s, both forward and in reverse. May bring out hidden problems in the drive train.
Turn front tires to the stops and check for excessive inside tire wear, which C6s are prone to.
Check to see if owner’s manual is in glove box. The owner’s manual is a must for the C6.
Ask if jacking pucks are included. Check for damage on the underside to make sure no damage from not using pucks.
Check for wheel locks (locking lug nuts) and if installed, make sure key is included.
Nav (if equipped) check that DVDs are included.
Check for excessive wear on seat bolsters.
Check harmonic balancer for any wobble....this is a common failure item on the C6.
A clear and complete set of service and maintenance records.
Dated receipts for any repairs done.
Are any repaired parts or mod parts under a limited warranty?
And as always, get a pre-purchase inspection done by someone who knows these cars.
If from a dealer, insist on an alignment before you bring it home, and if from private, get it immediately done.
Make sure they give you TWO key fobs and the keys that go with them.
If sold by a GM dealer should have GM CPO warranty, a 2 year bumper to bumper warranty, it should go with the car. It should have the balance of the new car warranty also.
If you have a car that is still subject to the 5/100K powertrain warranty, besides getting the IVH-Investigate Vehicle History report from any GM dealer (formerly called VIS). Have some dealer tech run a scan on the car's computer to see if there's anything that could cause a denial of major powertrain claim (such as a tune which may cause that to happen) and have him note that on the order ticket that it is free of any changes. Inspect for aftermarket headers, and stock placement of cat converters.
Here's a link to the RPO codes: http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/...l#.Uta85f0_f68
The rpo sticker is in the glove box the one in the dash, on the left hand side, it's kind of hard to see take a light if the light is poor where the car is stored.
If the car is that close to new there might be a window sticker available ( a more readable form of the rpo), it might even be in the glove box if not ask them to print one out for you.
#14
My question is, what are you downgrading from? In my opinion, any C6 model year is good. There have been problems in every year model. 2008 saw the LS3 with 30 more hp and some interior upgrades over the 2007. I had a 2005 with a LS2 400 hp and it was no slouch at all. I loved that car. A couple of minor problems over 3 years and 75k miles. Buy what you can afford.
#15
Drifting
You might want to check here on the Forum for one that has already been modded by a good shop with the mods you are looking do. Will save you a lot of coin........
This one is sold but is a good example..... Click Here
Mark
This one is sold but is a good example..... Click Here
Mark
Last edited by 08VRZ06; 06-24-2014 at 02:27 PM.
#16
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#17
#18
Even the older C6 400hp Corvettes are probobly more powerful in the butt dyno department. The 360 engine is very low torque at lower rpms. I drove around in a friends C5 base vette, and the difference was very apparent. Only at higher rpms I think the 360 feels stronger than the vette did.
My days of brutally fast cars are over anyways, Ive done the GTR thing, and the big turbo Supra thing... I am most interested in an enjoyable and comfortable car now. 500-550whp on a corvette with no roof would be plenty for me.
My days of brutally fast cars are over anyways, Ive done the GTR thing, and the big turbo Supra thing... I am most interested in an enjoyable and comfortable car now. 500-550whp on a corvette with no roof would be plenty for me.
#19
Team Owner
#20
Drifting
The interior won't be as nice to start but that can easily be remedied.
Plus, the manual GS comes with a dry sump engine.
And yes, you can take off the roof too.