Tire Pressure
#23
Le Mans Master
I cannot speak for anyone's owners manual but my own.
For a 2013 GS, it's instructions are very clear.
It states that even when setting up my car for high speed track operation, defined as 175 mph, I should never exceed 38 psi cold pressure, no matter what the maximum cold rating is on the tire.
It also states that I should be using the minimum cold pressure, for maximum load, for normal daily use, which in my case is 30 psi on all 4 tires.
Simple, straight forward, designed for maximum safety, and minimum risk.
What part of that is unacceptable, or difficult to comprehend?
For a 2013 GS, it's instructions are very clear.
It states that even when setting up my car for high speed track operation, defined as 175 mph, I should never exceed 38 psi cold pressure, no matter what the maximum cold rating is on the tire.
It also states that I should be using the minimum cold pressure, for maximum load, for normal daily use, which in my case is 30 psi on all 4 tires.
Simple, straight forward, designed for maximum safety, and minimum risk.
What part of that is unacceptable, or difficult to comprehend?
#24
Advanced
Thread Starter
Have any of you ever ran you air pressure up to the cold max and seen this tire wear, or tire blown out, or unsafe, or harsh ride?
I pretty much agree with what the manufacturer recommends. But Chevy didn't make the tires. All tires have a different rating. they are not generic If the tires are rated for a certain cold pressure....you can run it up that pressure. That's why it's right there on the side of the tire! It's not unsafe, it doesn't wear out your tires, it's not going to blow up your tire. It DOES give you a slightly harder ride, but can't notice it much in most cars. You will feel it in a C4 Vette though. If you want to stick to what the manufacturer recommends......keep the noisey GY RF on there and not change the tires.
Go around a corner with your tires at 30 pounds, then raise them 44 (or whatever your max cold pressure is) you will feel the difference. You get a lot less tire lean. But you might feel a little more bumps in the road.
I been running my tires at the cold max. or near it for the last 30+ years. Through experimenting and driving my cars and pushing them. I've never had a blow out, never had my tires wear out faster in the center as someone above wrote, never flipped a car over, or broken a car be running like this. I did get better wearing on my tires, and better cornering. (which is why I own vettes) {anybody can go fast in a straight line} I do run the pressure lower on my C6, but just coz I get tired of seeing the flashing on my CID.
I'm not telling anyone to run at any pressure. I just writting about what I know and what I do. Do whatever you feel like doing it's your car.
I pretty much agree with what the manufacturer recommends. But Chevy didn't make the tires. All tires have a different rating. they are not generic If the tires are rated for a certain cold pressure....you can run it up that pressure. That's why it's right there on the side of the tire! It's not unsafe, it doesn't wear out your tires, it's not going to blow up your tire. It DOES give you a slightly harder ride, but can't notice it much in most cars. You will feel it in a C4 Vette though. If you want to stick to what the manufacturer recommends......keep the noisey GY RF on there and not change the tires.
Go around a corner with your tires at 30 pounds, then raise them 44 (or whatever your max cold pressure is) you will feel the difference. You get a lot less tire lean. But you might feel a little more bumps in the road.
I been running my tires at the cold max. or near it for the last 30+ years. Through experimenting and driving my cars and pushing them. I've never had a blow out, never had my tires wear out faster in the center as someone above wrote, never flipped a car over, or broken a car be running like this. I did get better wearing on my tires, and better cornering. (which is why I own vettes) {anybody can go fast in a straight line} I do run the pressure lower on my C6, but just coz I get tired of seeing the flashing on my CID.
I'm not telling anyone to run at any pressure. I just writting about what I know and what I do. Do whatever you feel like doing it's your car.
#25
The weight or the car determines what tire pressure you put in. The tire can be put on many vehicles. The max pressure on the tire just determines what that particular tire can run without failing. Put 30 to 32 lbs like the door jam says.
#26
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Thanks for the pointed comments. I now lean toward listening more to what the tire manufacturer recommend. I'm amazed so many folks blindly follow GM, after they forced Goodyear's on us, which to my reading almost EVERYONE hates. My compromise would be cold pressure about 33-35 so when they heat up to high 30s - low 40s the warning flashing won't kick in.
You have been given some sound advice here. You have also been given one person's interpretation of sidewall markings. If you choose to not believe the advice given, call Tire Rack, tell them what tires you have and what car they are on and ask them what their recommended pressure is.
#27
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Thanks for the pointed comments. I now lean toward listening more to what the tire manufacturer recommend. I'm amazed so many folks blindly follow GM, after they forced Goodyear's on us, which to my reading almost EVERYONE hates. My compromise would be cold pressure about 33-35 so when they heat up to high 30s - low 40s the warning flashing won't kick in.
Regardless of its size, every tire's load capacity, durability, traction and handling is dependent on using the right inflation pressure for the application. Since both too little and too much inflation pressure sacrifices some of the tires' performance, maintaining the "right" inflation pressure is very important.
While a wide variety of tire sizes are available to fit the many different vehicles in use today, almost every tire size can be used on more than one vehicle. Therefore it is the vehicle manufacturers that ultimately determine the tire inflation pressures they believe best fine-tune the tires' capabilities to their specific vehicle makes and models.
The pounds per square inch (psi) pressure number branded on the tire's sidewall identifies the maximum cold inflation pressure that specific tire is rated to hold. However, the tire's maximum pressure is not necessarily the correct pressure for every vehicle upon which the tire can be used (almost all vehicle manufacturers' recommended tire inflation pressures are less than the tires' maximum pressure).
Therefore when checking and adjusting tire inflation pressures, the "right" inflation pressures are those provided by the vehicle manufacturer, not the "maximum" inflation pressure branded on the tire's sidewall. The vehicle manufacturer's pressure recommendation can be found on the vehicle's tire information placard label, as well as in the vehicle owner's manual.
Beginning in 2003, vehicle manufacturers were directed to place tire information placards in a standardized location and follow a common format. The tire information placards identify the Original Equipment tire sizes and inflation pressures (including the spare), along with the vehicle weight capacity.
View Placard at Larger Size
The placard on new vehicles must now be located on the driver's side doorjamb (called the "B-pillar"). If a vehicle does not have a B-pillar, then the placard is to be placed on the rear edge of the driver's door. And if the vehicle does not have a B-pillar and the driver's door edge is too narrow, the placard is to be affixed on an inward facing surface next to the driver's seating position.
In addition to providing the Original Equipment tire size and recommended inflation pressure, vehicle manufacturers must also identify vehicle load capacity with the following sentence: "The combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed XXXX pounds."
NOTE: Adhering to this vehicle load capacity information is important. For example, our calculations indicate it would be easy to exceed a five passenger SUV's rated vehicle weight capacity by carrying additional passengers in the vehicle's rear "cargo area" and placing all luggage on a rooftop carrier.
Additionally, new vehicle owner's manuals must also address the following five subject areas: tire labeling, recommended tire inflation pressure, glossary of tire terms, tire care, and vehicle load limits. Vehicle manufacturers can also list alternate tire pressures based on load and/or speed in the owner's manuals.
For vehicles produced between 1968 and 2003, the original tires size(s) and inflation pressures (including the spare) are listed on a vehicle placard (sometimes alternate pressures based on load and/or speed conditions are also provided).
Earlier placards can typically be found on:
- The driver-side door or doorjamb
- Rear passenger doorjamb of Ford sedans
- Fuel filler door
- Glove box or center console door
- The engine compartment
One final note, tire pressure must be checked with a quality air gauge as the inflation pressure cannot be accurately estimated through visual inspection.
Bill
#28
Le Mans Master
...The pounds per square inch (psi) pressure number branded on the tire's sidewall identifies the maximum cold inflation pressure that specific tire is rated to hold. ... Therefore when checking and adjusting tire inflation pressures, the "right" inflation pressures are those provided by the vehicle manufacturer, not the "maximum" inflation pressure branded on the tire's sidewall. ...
Last edited by FortMorganAl; 06-05-2014 at 08:36 AM.
#29
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Bill D & FortMorganAl,
I stand corrected on who provides the recommended tire pressure. Although I was wrong on who provides this info, my advice to the OP is to follow the recommendation given on the door placard & stick with 30 psi.
I stand corrected on who provides the recommended tire pressure. Although I was wrong on who provides this info, my advice to the OP is to follow the recommendation given on the door placard & stick with 30 psi.
#31
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St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
Thanks for the pointed comments. I now lean toward listening more to what the tire manufacturer recommend. I'm amazed so many folks blindly follow GM, after they forced Goodyear's on us, which to my reading almost EVERYONE hates. My compromise would be cold pressure about 33-35 so when they heat up to high 30s - low 40s the warning flashing won't kick in.
Find a tire, any tire brand and model that is recommended for your car (size, fit, speed rating, load, etc.---you know all that, right?). Call the company, or write to them, and ask them one question: what tire pressure would they recommend for your car----not for your brand of tire independent of any car to put it on?
Your car. X year Corvette, stock wheels (if that's what you have), what tire pressure should I inflate it to?
Simple to do, easy to get an answer, isn't it?
Report back here about the 45, 35, 40 or 51 lbs. of tire pressures they recommend. We'll be here waiting for the answer(s)....
#32
Team Owner
If you want to listen to the tire manufacturer, that's fine...call them. All of them have 800 numbers and customer service reps to answer questions. Tell them the tire, the car etc and do what they say. That will be a safe way to go. I am completely comfortable with this line of action.
#33
Drifting
Memorial Day ride on Topanga Canyon detour route hit a rock on a hidden turn and side wall cut tire on original Goodyears with 25,000. Read the run-flat non-run-flat debate and was glad I could drive home with the run-flats. The idea of waiting for AAA for a flat bed on a winding mountain road not my cup of tea nor is pumping goo which probably wouldn't fix a side-wall cut. SO settled on Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 Wide Oval Run-Flats.
NOW THE BIG QUESTION. Took car and new tires to one of the hottest brake and alignment specialist in the San Fernando Valley. Guy does lots of high end performance cars. He insists that the proper tire pressure is near 5lbs under the max tire rating. Firstone max is 51 so he insisted best performance and longevity would be 40-45 lbs. GM calls for 30 front and rear. Of course the DIC picked a fit over "high pressure." Was told I should have computer reset to reflect higher pressure.
Sorry for long winded questions. I'm inclined to go back to 30-32 lbs. interested in Forum feedback.
NOW THE BIG QUESTION. Took car and new tires to one of the hottest brake and alignment specialist in the San Fernando Valley. Guy does lots of high end performance cars. He insists that the proper tire pressure is near 5lbs under the max tire rating. Firstone max is 51 so he insisted best performance and longevity would be 40-45 lbs. GM calls for 30 front and rear. Of course the DIC picked a fit over "high pressure." Was told I should have computer reset to reflect higher pressure.
Sorry for long winded questions. I'm inclined to go back to 30-32 lbs. interested in Forum feedback.
#34
Le Mans Master
If you want to listen to the tire manufacturer, that's fine...call them. All of them have 800 numbers and customer service reps to answer questions. Tell them the tire, the car etc and do what they say. That will be a safe way to go. I am completely comfortable with this line of action.
Entirely comfortable....so much so, that I don't care.
Why should I? The OP can't accept what G.M. says, or what 99% of the responding posts say, or even what common sense dictates.
So... Try 51.5 lbs, see what happens, and let us know.
#35
Racer
I would go by the sticker on the door jam and you will be safe.Changing the pressure to that amount will cause you problems on the street.your car will be bouncing like a ball!