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replacing air filter and cabin filter on 2008 corvette coupe

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Old 05-26-2014, 12:49 PM
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johnrichard
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Default replacing air filter and cabin filter on 2008 corvette coupe

Hi just would like to know what are the best replacements for air filter and cabin filter for my 2008 corvette , please note just looking for air filter not new setup , what do you recommend for best performance , is a KN E-0782 a good replacement filter and a good investment and will it filter correctly ? The cabin filter what do you recommend , thanks for your advise
Old 05-26-2014, 12:58 PM
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AORoads
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Depends on miles, condition of both. Don't base it on years of inservice use in my opinion. I'm a big fan of K&N but I wouldn't use it in this case because the OE paper is probably better. It's expensive, but search the two or three forum vendors like Gene Culley if you need the air filter; he's less expensive than most. Mine, w. 44K miles, looks new inside the pleats still. But I have a replacement OE filter when I need it.

As to cabin air filter, that one does need to be replaced fairly regularly because it gets junked up. For that, I'd suggest either the Fram or Purolator at any of the auto parts stores, around 16 dollars or so.
Old 05-26-2014, 12:58 PM
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HOXXOH
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Stick with OEM for best filtration. Owner's manual says 50K miles in normal use.
Old 05-26-2014, 04:19 PM
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HBsurfer
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OEM air filter for me. Cabin filter brand is not as important as just changing it regularly. I had the a/c stink problem and after a cabin filter change combined with a few sprays of Fabreeze, the smell is gone. I will probably replace the cabin filter twice a year. $11.00 for a Purolator and it takes about a minute to do it. Cheap and easy no stink insurance. Engine air is a different animal and I stay with original equipment there.
Old 05-26-2014, 04:26 PM
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Red08
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I replaced my cabin filter with one I got at NAPA. It was the correct filter, but it some work to get it to fit into the filter slot. I would get one that is easier to insert.
Old 05-26-2014, 04:28 PM
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spdkilz911
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Use the OEM air filter. I didn't know about the cabin filter until reading the book. Obviously the original owner didn't know about it either. It was packed with dirt, feathers, etc. I will try the Fabreeze trick to help with the ac smell.
Old 05-26-2014, 05:20 PM
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C6 Cabin Air Filter

Purolator C25623 w/charcoal
Old 06-19-2014, 03:26 AM
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SweetBlueZ51
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Originally Posted by spdkilz911
I will try the Fabreeze trick to help with the ac smell.
If you just turn off your A/C and just use high fan a few minutes before you arrive at your destination, I find this helps avoid the nasty smell. I believe there was also some sort of service bulletin addressing this a while back where they would change your settings to turn the fan on for a few minutes after you shut down your car to deal with bacteria building up from the A/C and causing the smell. That would be even better, but my way of manually doing it also seems to do the trick.
Old 06-19-2014, 03:57 AM
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Here you go............Must be from some GM Manual.

C6 HVAC "Afterblow" Enabling

The afterblow mode can be enabled using the scan tool. The afterblow mode allows the blower motor to operate after the engine has been turned off. This operation of the blower motor dries the evaporator core, which reduces the amount of microbial growth which can create undesirable odors.

Use the following procedure in order to enable the afterblow mode:

Connect the scan tool.
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Select HVAC Module.
Select HVAC Systems Automatic.
Select Special Functions.
Select HVAC.
Select Afterblow Option.
Select ENTER to enable the afterblow.
When done, use the soft key to save changes.
When afterblow has been enabled by the scan tool the blower motor will operate between medium and high speed for 4 minutes after the engine has been turned off.

The following conditions must be met for the HVAC module to operate the afterblow:

• The outside air temperature must be at least 21°C (70°F).

• The A/C compressor must operate for more than 2 minutes.

• The engine must be turned off for at least 45 minutes.

• The system voltage must be at least 12 volts.
Old 06-19-2014, 06:13 AM
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Seadawg
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Originally Posted by HOXXOH
Stick with OEM for best filtration. Owner's manual says 50K miles in normal use.
I just replaced my LS3 (mine is a 2011, but it takes the same elements as your 2008), got them from Amazon for about half price too.

For some reason, I can only add this one pic..... NOTE - I went with the ZR1 engine air filter too, maybe it's in my head, but it does seem a little peppier grabbing the gears







New ZR1 element installed in LS3

Last edited by Seadawg; 06-19-2014 at 06:44 AM. Reason: kicked me off the forum, hmmmm.....
Old 06-19-2014, 10:25 AM
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Seadawg any problems with light throttle surging?
Old 06-19-2014, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Boomer111
Seadawg any problems with light throttle surging?
No surging and no other issues, had it in for about a month now. Meaning, mine runs fine with the ZR1 OEM element.

Last edited by Seadawg; 06-19-2014 at 03:18 PM.
Old 06-19-2014, 03:18 PM
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This should be the 'dirty' OEM engine air filter element, after 46k miles of DD in Florida
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Old 06-19-2014, 03:21 PM
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Here's a pic of the cabin air filter that I just replaced. I typically replace it once a year.
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Old 06-19-2014, 05:57 PM
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The engine filters look identical!
Old 06-20-2014, 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Boomer111
The engine filters look identical!
They really do look very similar from the pics, but it did appear to be slightly more open between the fins on the new ZR1 filter. ... It was a different part number too.

The new ZR1 filter had the black grilling permanently attached to the fact of the filter. On the original OEM one I took out, the black grille that holds the filter in is a separate piece.
Old 06-20-2014, 09:49 AM
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Ya I was wondering about the little grill.

Maybe the same element and the grill change is the reason for a different part #.

That is my guess.

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Old 06-20-2014, 10:01 AM
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Sunnyvale Dave
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I have been using the WIX cabin filter, but it crunches up when I install it. I was wondering if there is a brand that installs a little easier.
Old 06-21-2014, 05:38 PM
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It's a tight squeeze for any element, it's a shame they did not angle it slightly. My 2008 seemed harder to change, with the battery there. My 2011 is a dry sump, I was pretty much able to bend the vent lines out of the way and get the FRAM element in there without bending it.
Old 06-22-2014, 02:07 AM
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The Purolator filter I listed above went in relatively easy.

I swapped it at the same time that I replaced the battery, and with that out of the way, access was pretty good.

From what I've seen posted, everybody struggles a bit getting the cabin filter to slide in.



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