2006 Corvette C6 - Harmonic Balancer Wobble - Squeak
#21
Race Director
Well that's good news. But it does make me wonder why everyone suggest replacing the seal when doing this balancer R&R. I'm sure some may think that replacing the seal is always a good idea. But if the car has low miles then I ain't touching the seal. I'll use the "If it ain't broke don't fix it" theory when it comes to leaks, esp. on a low mileage not so old car.
#22
Safety Car
keyway
Interested to know after the shop machined a key, then what? For that key to be effective, crank snout needs the female "key way" for the key to "sit". If you could, ask the shop how they accomplish that.
Same as above, do you have some pictures to illustrate your double keyed and double pinned effort? Or detail verbal descriptions?
Same as above, do you have some pictures to illustrate your double keyed and double pinned effort? Or detail verbal descriptions?
#23
Safety Car
Thanks for the quick response. The order was not shipped yet, so I cancelled it all and got a complete refund. So as a summary, your suggesting the following:
1) ATI Harmonic Balancer
2) ARP Bolt
3) Replace Crank Seal
4) HB installer tool
5) ATI Pinning kit
Do you have part numbers for these by any chance? Also, will the gatorback belts be the better choice rather then getting stock ones?
1) ATI Harmonic Balancer
2) ARP Bolt
3) Replace Crank Seal
4) HB installer tool
5) ATI Pinning kit
Do you have part numbers for these by any chance? Also, will the gatorback belts be the better choice rather then getting stock ones?
#24
most aftermarket hb's come with a keyway already cut in them.if you want a double keyway in a balancer you already have get an automotive machine shop to cut you another keyway in it.if ordering order the ATI with a double keyway in it.you can run as many as 4 keyways if you care to.the crank snout will not have to be keyed.that is where your pinning kit comes in to play.simple procedure that you can perform in an hour or so.check my previous posts for information on keying
My ATI has key way, but since my motor will not be FI, I installed as was. But if I was after positive captivation, keyway has to be cut onto the crank snout, also rough machine a key, patient hand massage with final bluing in the key to assure interference fit on crank snout but at the same time provide slide mated tight drawn fit for the damper.
Personally not comfortable using over the counter "pinning" kit, simply drill and pound in the dowel(I am not comfortable with any pounding on crack snout). In my past life, doweling was a common practice, but final machined the female bore painstakingly with exact precision per plan spec to enable an exact fit for the dowel. Same with the relationship between key and the two receptacle keyways - final fitup require repetitive bluing in fitting surface to assure sliding drawn fit with no clearance for any movement - process not complete until verified/accepted via third party independent Inspector signature.
Over the years, I have seen my share of improperly installed "Pinning" attempts. Many with failure, then re-pin. Problems other than crank snout ended up with an assortment of misaligned drilled holes but most importantly, at the same time, losing strength integrity.
As for my toy, unless the need warrant my effort.
#25
Understand that the inner raceway on the HB rides against that seal, and in time, it will even wear a groove to the race way of the HB/Wear out the seal.
So the reason that you change it, is the new Raceway on the New HB maybe slightly different, and you want the seal to mate in with the new HB inner raceway (read your into a HB replacement at over a Grand, so why not change out the $10 seal when you are in there anyways).
#26
Team Owner
When they replaced my balancer, the seal was replaced also, along with the bolt. This is the proper way to do it. The seal is easily replaced and it is a very inexpensive part. It should be done because the labor to get everything in and out is very expensive. Do it once, do it right.
#27
Race Director
Understand that the inner raceway on the HB rides against that seal, and in time, it will even wear a groove to the race way of the HB/Wear out the seal.
So the reason that you change it, is the new Raceway on the New HB maybe slightly different, and you want the seal to mate in with the new HB inner raceway (read your into a HB replacement at over a Grand, so why not change out the $10 seal when you are in there anyways).
So the reason that you change it, is the new Raceway on the New HB maybe slightly different, and you want the seal to mate in with the new HB inner raceway (read your into a HB replacement at over a Grand, so why not change out the $10 seal when you are in there anyways).
When I had mine done the first time I left it up to the mechanic at the dealer to do it right. It never leaked oil past the seal when I got it back so I guess it wasn't in need of being changed then. I will tell them this time to make sure to replace the seal.
#28
Team Owner
I wasn't the one "in there" before and won't be this next time either.
When I had mine done the first time I left it up to the mechanic at the dealer to do it right. It never leaked oil past the seal when I got it back so I guess it wasn't in need of being changed then. I will tell them this time to make sure to replace the seal.
When I had mine done the first time I left it up to the mechanic at the dealer to do it right. It never leaked oil past the seal when I got it back so I guess it wasn't in need of being changed then. I will tell them this time to make sure to replace the seal.
#30
Intermediate
I just took my 2007 with 27,000 miles to a local Corvette specialist. He recommended an ATI unit and they will machine a key. Very knowledgable and I feel good about the repair. They showed me pics of the stock HB and the ATI HB and explained why and what I was paying for. It may be overkill but it is also peace of mind. An extra $200 is a small price to pay in my opinion. Clearly a superior product. They quoted 8 hrs labor at $98 per hour plus the cost of the new HB. Total cost with a new belt is about $1100. Dropped it off in the morning and picked it up the next day.
#31
Instructor
ATI balancer
For what it's worth when I bought the car used with 40,000 miles I checked all the problem areas on my c6,sticking in park,pully wobble etc.everything was fine. Then it started to get stuck in park. I fixed that by tying pack the paw. Then one night the squeek started. I checked and it was the dampener. So not wasting any time I called the local dealer. They wanted $1200+ to put an OEM one back on. I called Corvette Paramedics in south jersey. It took some time to finally get through and I asked them to put a ATI replacement on . So I drove an hour (slowly) down to their shop. The car was there a few days and they called me. They asked me if I mined them driving it in the rain as they had to road test it and it was raining. I said ok and an hour or so later they said the steering wheel was off a little and they recommended it get an alignment. I said ok. I picked it up the next day and drove it home. The car tracks straight no codes, steering feels good and no squeeks. The end result was two new belts,new ATI balancer new bolt, new front seal and an alignment . The cost was $1700. A little expensive but now I won't have to worry about it. And they are a nice bunch of guys. While I was there waiting for my ride back I looked around and they had some nice vette there. One in particular was a 60 ish restored coupe.
Too bad there not closer.
Too bad there not closer.
Last edited by Tom Gilfoy; 04-12-2016 at 08:57 AM. Reason: Spelling
#32
Instructor
RCI Rattler
If it were me, I would go with a TCI Rattler, amazing and they finally have brought the technology to cars!! Google it...you won't be disappointed.