2012 grand sport steering wheel wobble of death
#21
Race Director
I had this problem with aftermarket rims.
The issue was the rims bore not matching up with the cars hub.
Believe it or not some tape around the hub fixed the problem. The bore was 1mm bigger than the hub. I will not get into the hub centric/stud centric debate here. I can only say that the tape fixed my problem with the aftermarket rim.
The difference was to small for a spigot ring with taking material of the rims bore area.
Driveline/torque tube balance can cause nasty vibrations. So can worn out motor mounts.
Bad wheel bearings are easily checked too.
Good luck and please report back when you find the cure.
The issue was the rims bore not matching up with the cars hub.
Believe it or not some tape around the hub fixed the problem. The bore was 1mm bigger than the hub. I will not get into the hub centric/stud centric debate here. I can only say that the tape fixed my problem with the aftermarket rim.
The difference was to small for a spigot ring with taking material of the rims bore area.
Driveline/torque tube balance can cause nasty vibrations. So can worn out motor mounts.
Bad wheel bearings are easily checked too.
Good luck and please report back when you find the cure.
#22
Burning Brakes
There is a heating process with powder coating and that would make the rotors suspect. Too hot or cooled too fast, what do you think?
#23
Racer
The calipers were removed when they got powder coated, plus the vibration was there prior to taking off the calipers and rotors for my project and still there after my project. I'm thinking shotty balance job by the tire place X 2!!
#25
Burning Brakes
I just bought a '14 Corolla with 70 miles on it because it was traded from another dealer and the rotors had to be replaced they were warped so bad and made a terrible noise from 50 mph stop. The noise was worse than the pulsing pedal.
#27
Burning Brakes
Does anybody still do the old high speed balancing on the car that way rotor is included. I went to the school of vibrations at GM back in the sixties. A tip they gave was to install tires, with wheel weights 180 degrees from weight on hub, rotor or drum. The test car we worked on did not improve after all the balancing even the driveshaft untill we put on a matched set of wheels and tires. It was a problem then and still its.
#30
Racer
Hi guys/ gals, I just recently bought my very first C6 and I am fighting a losing battle and I am very disappointed.. The 2012 GS Coupe I bought was spotless inside and out.. 8500 miles, virtually a brand new car.. Until you drove it.. Local city driving is perfect.. Get on the highway and that is where I first discovered the problem.. Once you hit 68+ mph, there is a vibration in the steering wheel that is so annoying for a new car.. It's not a continuous vibration, its almost a whomp, whomp, whomp.. I don't know exactly how to explain it, but its like pulsing or oscilating.. It does is from about 68 on up to well over a hundred.. Seems to get really bad about 75 where I mostly drive.. Sometimes 85-90 is perfectly smooth, other times it shakes also.. Ive had the car up to 135 and it has been smooth, but vibrates at different speeds up and down.. 70-80 seems to be the worst.. Anyway, right after I bought the car, and after I noticed the vibration, I went to discount tire and had the wheels balanced. Didn't help.. I called them back and spoke with the manager and he suggested having it road force balanced.. Never heard of it.. I goggled it and found that my local Chevrolet Dealership did this service. Perfect!! I took the car there right away.. They road forced the tires and it was no better.. They said the front tires were slightly worn on the inside edges and that could be the problem. They also checked the alignment and it was spot on. After they checked and road forced the tires again, the vibration was still there. They recommended new front tires as they were worn 6/32 on the outside to 4/32 on the inside.. I bought brand new GY F1 runflats to replace the OE fronts and had them install and road force again.. This did help, but only about 25% better.. After spending about $2000 and 4 trips to the dealership chasing this problem, I am lost.. They are lost.. Don't know what to do next, but I know something is not right with this car... It has 8500 miles, brand new tires, that have been road forced and it drives worse than my C5 I just sold with 80K miles on it.. I would appreciate any suggestions on what I can check or try next.. Thank you all. Jason
One suggestion to track it down is do you know anybody that also has a Grand Sport that doesn't have a vibration problem? If so have him come over and put his wheels on your car and test it, if it still vibrates it's not the wheels!
Good Luck
Last edited by MGretz70; 04-10-2014 at 06:34 PM.
#31
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Jason I was having the exact same issue as you were, only mine started after getting aftermarket rims installed, exactly as you described with the vibration and everything, I took it back to where I had the rims installed for rebalancing and still had same issue. He said he thinks it's his balance machine and he recommended a place about 15 min away to have it road forced balanced. Took it there ( which has earned my business from now on, was very knowledgeable and has done a lot of Vette work ) anyway all 4 tires were out of balance, one of the front wheels was out of road force balance and he had to move the tire around on the rim to a different spot. Now it's as smooth as glass at any speed! I'm not wondering if you are possibly having the same issue but who ever did your road force balance didn't know what they were doing or was to lazy to fix it and only made sure they were balanced and not road forced balanced as they say they were. Also the guy that did my road force balance pointed out the inside of my tires that were starting to wear as well on the inside of the tire and said if your alignment is to GM specs it will do this, there spec is wrong, plus I have seen many people on this forum say the same thing. A lot of guys on here recommend the Pfadt alignment specs!
One suggestion to track it down is do you know anybody that also has a Grand Sport that doesn't have a vibration problem? If so have him come over and put his wheels on your car and test it, if it still vibrates it's not the wheels!
Good Luck
One suggestion to track it down is do you know anybody that also has a Grand Sport that doesn't have a vibration problem? If so have him come over and put his wheels on your car and test it, if it still vibrates it's not the wheels!
Good Luck
#32
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#33
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#34
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I had this problem with aftermarket rims.
The issue was the rims bore not matching up with the cars hub.
Believe it or not some tape around the hub fixed the problem. The bore was 1mm bigger than the hub. I will not get into the hub centric/stud centric debate here. I can only say that the tape fixed my problem with the aftermarket rim.
The difference was to small for a spigot ring with taking material of the rims bore area.
Driveline/torque tube balance can cause nasty vibrations. So can worn out motor mounts.
Bad wheel bearings are easily checked too.
Good luck and please report back when you find the cure.
The issue was the rims bore not matching up with the cars hub.
Believe it or not some tape around the hub fixed the problem. The bore was 1mm bigger than the hub. I will not get into the hub centric/stud centric debate here. I can only say that the tape fixed my problem with the aftermarket rim.
The difference was to small for a spigot ring with taking material of the rims bore area.
Driveline/torque tube balance can cause nasty vibrations. So can worn out motor mounts.
Bad wheel bearings are easily checked too.
Good luck and please report back when you find the cure.
#35
Race Director
Well, the ball joints will be worn and with the car jacked up and taking the tire in hand you will try to feel for some bearing slop presence. It is easily felt if you can remember your bicycle days and loosened bearing race type adjustments.
Vibration can be from a number of different sorted parts.
Some will be in a revolving part other from worn parts.
Usually you start at the revolving parts and work up to the parts securing the these parts. This would include engine mounts , driveline carry bearing when applicable and other mounting points for anything that is spinning.
Usually it is improper balancing and worn ball joints. or a bent driveline, ya I know we have torque tubes. Just trying to show that some vibrations are tricky.
Vibration can be from a number of different sorted parts.
Some will be in a revolving part other from worn parts.
Usually you start at the revolving parts and work up to the parts securing the these parts. This would include engine mounts , driveline carry bearing when applicable and other mounting points for anything that is spinning.
Usually it is improper balancing and worn ball joints. or a bent driveline, ya I know we have torque tubes. Just trying to show that some vibrations are tricky.
#36
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C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
Assuming it's not a wheel/tire issue, then demand that the dealer use the computerized vibration testing tool (J-38792-A and J-38792-VS) before swapping any more parts. It's listed in the service manual under diagnostics for vibration problems. You certainly don't want mechanics simply changing parts trying to chase an elusive problem.
#37
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And the test car should be from the dealer who has other cars on the lot to test first to verify no vibration exists. If the tire swap, including yours onto the test car, eliminates the wheel/tire cause, then the dealer owes you something for a bad diagnosis. However, if the test car gets a vibration and your's runs vibration free, you can then narrow it down by swapping one wheel at a time.
Assuming it's not a wheel/tire issue, then demand that the dealer use the computerized vibration testing tool (J-38792-A and J-38792-VS) before swapping any more parts. It's listed in the service manual under diagnostics for vibration problems. You certainly don't want mechanics simply changing parts trying to chase an elusive problem.
Assuming it's not a wheel/tire issue, then demand that the dealer use the computerized vibration testing tool (J-38792-A and J-38792-VS) before swapping any more parts. It's listed in the service manual under diagnostics for vibration problems. You certainly don't want mechanics simply changing parts trying to chase an elusive problem.
#38
Melting Slicks
Vibration testing tool? hmmmm. Never heard of that! I will be calling on Monday to inquire.. No disrespect to the Dealers techs, but I agree. I dont want them swapping parts on a trial and error basis and climbing in the car with greasy hands and clothes for countless highway test rides. Im looking for a one and done here... Thanks again for the suggestions.
#39
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I did actually check the carfax before I purchased. Not so much as a windshield washer solvent added. Thanks for the good idea though!