$8,500 ticking sound!
#1
$8,500 ticking sound!
Hello, looking for advice.
My 2005 with 150K miles started making a ticking sound about 3 weeks ago. Comes from the engine, changes frequency with engine RPM, comes and goes.
Took it to dealer, they replaced the harmonic balancer, sound still there. Now they say they think it is the camshaft bearings, but need to take the engine out of the car and disassemble it to know for sure. $2,300. If it is, they recommend engine replacement, $8,500 P&L.
Any suggestions?
TIA
Tim
My 2005 with 150K miles started making a ticking sound about 3 weeks ago. Comes from the engine, changes frequency with engine RPM, comes and goes.
Took it to dealer, they replaced the harmonic balancer, sound still there. Now they say they think it is the camshaft bearings, but need to take the engine out of the car and disassemble it to know for sure. $2,300. If it is, they recommend engine replacement, $8,500 P&L.
Any suggestions?
TIA
Tim
#2
Trade it off and put the $8500 towards a new one....
#6
Drifting
You do not have to remove the engine. You can pull the intake and heads yourself with the engine in the car.
The first thing I want to know is what does your oil pressure look like? Has it gone down any? If you put the car in gear, hold the brake and give it some gas does the ticking noise get worse or stay the same?
There are many minor things that could be the cause of your noise. Bad rocker, bad valve spring, etc. Most dealership mechanics are parts changers no real mechanics. It is easer to just change out parts than take the time to trouble shoot the problem. Don't let the thought of turning wrenches your self scare you it is not that big of a deal and a basic tool set it all you need for most jobs.
The first thing I want to know is what does your oil pressure look like? Has it gone down any? If you put the car in gear, hold the brake and give it some gas does the ticking noise get worse or stay the same?
There are many minor things that could be the cause of your noise. Bad rocker, bad valve spring, etc. Most dealership mechanics are parts changers no real mechanics. It is easer to just change out parts than take the time to trouble shoot the problem. Don't let the thought of turning wrenches your self scare you it is not that big of a deal and a basic tool set it all you need for most jobs.
Last edited by Crowhater; 02-06-2014 at 02:38 PM.
#8
Supporting Vendor
Hello, looking for advice.
My 2005 with 150K miles started making a ticking sound about 3 weeks ago. Comes from the engine, changes frequency with engine RPM, comes and goes.
Took it to dealer, they replaced the harmonic balancer, sound still there. Now they say they think it is the camshaft bearings, but need to take the engine out of the car and disassemble it to know for sure. $2,300. If it is, they recommend engine replacement, $8,500 P&L.
Any suggestions?
TIA
Tim
My 2005 with 150K miles started making a ticking sound about 3 weeks ago. Comes from the engine, changes frequency with engine RPM, comes and goes.
Took it to dealer, they replaced the harmonic balancer, sound still there. Now they say they think it is the camshaft bearings, but need to take the engine out of the car and disassemble it to know for sure. $2,300. If it is, they recommend engine replacement, $8,500 P&L.
Any suggestions?
TIA
Tim
It takes less than 5 hours to pull the heads and replace the lifters so I'd start there.
#11
At 150K, the car will be loose/have wear in a lot of areas that need to be serviced.
A 2005 Z-51 M-6 with around 30K miles will go for around $25K right now, so do the math on what you have in the car/what you can get out of it, and/or if you want to rebuild the car instead.
With the mileage of the car, you are pretty much at a complete strip down, and replace parts as you are putting everything back together to get the car tightened back up. If not, then you are going to be chasing your tail over and over again for the same area's if all the worn parts in that assembly are not replaced as you have them out of the car the first time around.
Simply put, unless you want to build the car into a T-1 track car, or are doing all the work yourself, then it might be time to retire the car for what you can get out of it, and pick one up a low mileage care that has not been drive to the ground instead.
I'm not saying that the car is a goner, but at that mileage, and the amount of worn parts that may need to be replaced before they go out and take something out with them as well, unless you are doing all the work on the car yourself, you never going to come out ahead.
A 2005 Z-51 M-6 with around 30K miles will go for around $25K right now, so do the math on what you have in the car/what you can get out of it, and/or if you want to rebuild the car instead.
With the mileage of the car, you are pretty much at a complete strip down, and replace parts as you are putting everything back together to get the car tightened back up. If not, then you are going to be chasing your tail over and over again for the same area's if all the worn parts in that assembly are not replaced as you have them out of the car the first time around.
Simply put, unless you want to build the car into a T-1 track car, or are doing all the work yourself, then it might be time to retire the car for what you can get out of it, and pick one up a low mileage care that has not been drive to the ground instead.
I'm not saying that the car is a goner, but at that mileage, and the amount of worn parts that may need to be replaced before they go out and take something out with them as well, unless you are doing all the work on the car yourself, you never going to come out ahead.
#12
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '15
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To answer OP's question, yes, here's a few suggestions. And not trying to knock you for it.
First, you've been on CF for about 8 years and you have 18 posts---kinda means you really haven't been on CF much at all. I know---life interferes, other more important things, etc.
SEcond, no infor in your profile where or what town you live in. CF is made up of members from all over, many of whom have good info on shops and dealers, good and bad.
Third, IYAM (if you ask me) that sounds like not great advice from your dealer. You can try another dealer as EV says above, and that surely wouldn't hurt. But, you could also begin looking for indie Corvette specialists in your area, or relatively nearby, as in w/in a 100 mile radius.
Finally, if it was me, I'd do both from the last-mentioned and the second part by calling up a few local Corvette and/or hotrod clubs in the area or the state. And ask them for recommendations on what technician/what shop is trustworthy and who knows LS2s in Corvettes. And fill in some info. And post up a little more. We'd like to hear from you other than when a problem occurs.
First, you've been on CF for about 8 years and you have 18 posts---kinda means you really haven't been on CF much at all. I know---life interferes, other more important things, etc.
SEcond, no infor in your profile where or what town you live in. CF is made up of members from all over, many of whom have good info on shops and dealers, good and bad.
Third, IYAM (if you ask me) that sounds like not great advice from your dealer. You can try another dealer as EV says above, and that surely wouldn't hurt. But, you could also begin looking for indie Corvette specialists in your area, or relatively nearby, as in w/in a 100 mile radius.
Finally, if it was me, I'd do both from the last-mentioned and the second part by calling up a few local Corvette and/or hotrod clubs in the area or the state. And ask them for recommendations on what technician/what shop is trustworthy and who knows LS2s in Corvettes. And fill in some info. And post up a little more. We'd like to hear from you other than when a problem occurs.
#13
Team Owner
Time to turn it loose, trade it and take you both out of your misery.
#15
Instructor
Since you asked for advice, I would take crowhater's advice and try and fix it yourself. Take AORodes advice and get involved with like minded CF guys for assistance.
Jim
Jim
#16
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#18
I've taught Automotive technology for over 30 years. A ticking noise is generally the top end of the engine, compared to a knocking noise from the lower end. If you have changed your oil faithfully and the oil pressure hasn't changed from what it normally reads then you can almost rule out the bearings. I'm leaning towards the valve train, like a worn rocker arm, lifter or possible camshaft. Another suspect that I wouldn't rule out is the timing chain or tensioner.
Has anyone listened to the engine using a mechanics stethoscope ? Seems to me that a ticking noise can be properly diagnosed from the outside of the engine.
I wouldn't have them pull the motor, with 150k everything is going to be on the replacement end of their original specification.
I agree with a lot of the comments left by the other members on this forum. They all have given you good advise.
Has anyone listened to the engine using a mechanics stethoscope ? Seems to me that a ticking noise can be properly diagnosed from the outside of the engine.
I wouldn't have them pull the motor, with 150k everything is going to be on the replacement end of their original specification.
I agree with a lot of the comments left by the other members on this forum. They all have given you good advise.